Saturday, September 30, 2017

What Did You Do To Prep This Week?

Before we get started with this weeks segment I’d like to thank everyone who has bought my books and left ratings and reviews on Amazon.com. Now for some bad news, I received a letter a few days ago letting me know that my publisher Paladin Press will be closing their doors for good on Dec 31.

So if’ you want my books “31 Days to Survival” and or “Dirt Cheap Survival Retreat” then you need need to go ahead and order those book while you still can. I’m not sure if I’ll try to find another publisher or just let those books fade into the abyss.

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Read the whole entry... »



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8 Tips for a Great Camping Trip

Written by Guest Contributor on The Prepper Journal.

Editors Note: A guest contribution from Michael Everett at RainyCamping.com to The Prepper Journal. The best way to learn to be prepared is to learn when life is still normal. As always, if you have information for Preppers that you would like to share and possibly receive a $25 cash award as well as be entered into the Prepper Writing Contest with a chance to win one of three Amazon Gift Cards  with the top prize being a $300 card to purchase your own prepping supplies, enter today.

Camping is one of the best ways to get away from the stress of daily life. At your campsite, you and your family can sleep and dine outdoors in a natural and refreshing environment. Whether you are planning to go on your first camping trip or you want to return to camping after a long break, the following tips and ideas will help you to have a great time.

1. Plan Your Activities in Advance

Create a list of camping activities for you and your children. This will help you avoid boredom and prevent the children from getting involved in dangerous stunts. A little brainstorming will help you to generate enough ideas to last for 1 to 3 days. Take a football, kite, board games, fishing gear, a compass and maps for learning and paint and craft items. Incorporate the “location” into the activities. Finds and paint pine cones if available to be a part of an upcoming holiday, bring a book on plants and have a scavenger hunt for the “safe” ones. Be creative in your teaching.

As such you can convert each camping trip to an educational excursion and adventure for your children. Take nature books along and allow the children to have a firsthand experience with the wonders of nature. Schedule photo sessions for both sunrise and sunset and take advantage of these times to capture unique photographs. Add more physical activities like hiking or kayaking if your campsite is near a river or lake.

2. Choose Your Camping Site With Care

The campsite you pick will determine how well you’ll enjoy your trip. Carefully plan how far you want to travel, the type of location (whether you want a coastal area or countryside forest). Decide whether you want to stay in a camp with a lot of facilities or a place in the wild.

  

Note that camps with plenty of amenities attract a lot of people and are very noisy while areas that are laid back and pristine usually lack basic facilities. Make sure you choose a campsite that is relatively safe so you don’t have to worry about fending off wild bears when you are meant to be sleeping.

3. Create a Camp Box

Creating a camp box can reduce the time you spend packing for your camping trip by half. Start by making a checklist of items you should take for a typical weekend camping trip. Your checklist should include the following:
* Campsite Gear: sleeping bag and pad for each camper, pillows and blankets, heavy duty steel tent stakes and poles, ground cover, extra canopy or tarp, repair kit, chairs, headlamps and lanterns.
* Kitchen Utensils: stove and fuel, lighter, firewood, pot and frying pan, portable coffee maker, trash bags, cooler, ice, water bottles, paper towel, bowls,plates, forks, spoons, and knives.
* Personal Items: toothbrush, toothpaste, toiletries, soap, sunscreen, first aid kit, insect repellent, and any prescription medication.

Update your “Camp Box” as a family exercise after the trip. Have everyone offer suggestions/improvements and most important, what could have been left out.

4. Get Your Camping Gear Off-season

After you have written out the items for your typical camping trip, you need to go shopping to pick up those you don’t have at home. If you are planning for your first camping trip, you should avoid buying so many items during the peak season for hot weather tent camping.

Although June may seem like a nice time to go shopping for camp gear because of the variety of camping gear that will be on display, don’t do it. At this time, tents and other camping gear will be sold at peak prices. Instead, you should buy camping gear in early spring or winter. Many retailers also try to sell off their camp gear at the end of the summer, so you could get very good bargains at that time.

5. Prepare for Night Lighting

A campsite will feel lonely when walk around with light that is coming from your LED headlamp alone. You should have at least one or two extra lighting sources. These will make your campsite and tent look and feel safer and more exciting.

You may use a powerful rechargeable LED lantern that has about 200 to 250 lumens of light at night or a lantern powered by alkaline batteries. You may also use solar lamps that will be fully charged during the day and provide light for at least 12 hours at night.

6. Go Unplugged and Leave Some Gadgets at Home

Try going for a weekend without your smartphone, tablet or laptop. You will experience a refreshing sense of freedom that will linger for a long time. Going unplugged allows you to rely on your memory and improve your cognate ability instead of depending on Google for every single fact during a discussion with your friends and family. If you feel you will need your smartphone to take pictures, use a digital camera instead. Going without all the digital distractions will revive and rejuvenate your mind. Your attention span will improve and your mood will be transformed.

7. Be Creative With Meals

Plan your meals in advance. Make a list of your meals for each day (breakfast, lunch, dinner and two snacks between meals). Then choose simple recipes that you can easily use to cook at your campsite while focusing on meals that you can cook well over an open flame. You can even practice cooking breakfast meals like cinnamon roll-ups in your yard at home.

Before you set out, prepare some of the food at home. It will be easier to cut vegetables, marinate the meat and wrap potatoes in foil before going to your camp. Pack these into your cooler and set out the food meal by meal. Remember to take all the condiments and utensils you will need to serve each meal.

8. Leave No Trace

Make it your responsibility to practice the principles of “leave no trace” any time you go camping. These principles have been set out to keep campsites tidy. So you can return back month after month, year after year and still have a clean, safe and hygienic place to set up your tent. With the ever increasing number of people going for camping each year, we need to take care of our trash and avoid leaving our poop buried in shallow pits. It is important to stick to trails when moving around and avoid putting soap, food or human waste in streams and lakes.

Conclusion
Apply these simple tips before and during your camping trip. Remember to maintain a positive attitude and make the best of your trip even if you experience unexpected changes in weather at your campsite.

Author’s Bio:

Welcome to Rainy Camping. I am Michael Everett, a camping expert who loves to travel and explore the wilderness throughout the year. I aim to visit every campsite in the world and offer smart advice to the novice adventurers out there.

 

 

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Friday, September 29, 2017

Planning To Retire Off-grid? Here’s Where To Relocate

One of the big challenges for retiring today is being able to afford retirement. Many of us are in the difficult position of not having company retirement benefits to fall back on. What that means is that all we have to retire on is our Social Security benefits. That’s not all that much.

Having money in savings doesn’t help all that much either. It used to be that if you have a million dollars in the bank, you had it made for retirement. Your million would net you $50,000 per year at 5% interest; but with today’s interest rates, you need five times as much in savings, to net the same amount of income. That’s more than most of us make in our entire life.

So, how are you going to survive?

There are two basic ways that people try to deal with this situation; either downsizing to reduce costs or trying to find a retirement business which can augment their retirement income. Both of those possibilities are workable, although neither is easy.

There is another option; that of going off-grid somewhere and becoming self-sufficient. If you’re not sure what I mean by that, it refers to a self-sufficient lifestyle, where you are not dependent on public utilities, but rather have an autonomous home, generating your own electricity and pumping your own water. For some people, it even includes growing their own food.

Not everyone views living off-grid the same way.

For some, producing your own electricity means that you would have to produce as much electricity as you use now, powering air conditioners, computers and massive entertainment centers.

But for others, living off-grid means changing their lifestyle, simplifying it to the point where they don’t need to produce as much electricity as what most of us currently produce. Financially, at least, this option is much easier.

 

This smart device will help you slash an excess of 70% off your power bill overnight…

 

Living in such a way is extremely cheap, especially if you own the property you’re living on. While this would require a total change of lifestyle, retirement is a massive change anyway. Living off-grid would even give you something to do, tending your garden and feeing your chickens.

If you own a home now or have any savings, this is a real possibility. Selling your home would provide you with funds to buy property for an off-grid home and hopefully even to build the home. Whatever retirement savings you might have could be used for that as well, investing those funds in making it possible to retire in a comfortable, albeit different, way.

Basic Off-Grid Requirements

So, where are the best places to go, if you want to retire off-grid? That seems to be the question. Let’s lay out a few requirements for such a place, then we can discuss some likely locations.

  • It needs to be a remote enough area that you can buy a few acres at a reasonable price.
  • While being remote, it still needs to be accessible.
  • It needs to be close enough to a population center to allow the easy purchase of supplies.
  • It needs to have ample natural resources, especially water (which may require drilling a well).
  • It needs to be someplace where the law allows living off-grid (some states do not allow this).
  • It needs to be an area with a low cost of living.

Weather would probably be a factor as well for most people. Living in a hot climate, without air conditioning, may be fine for some, but others would really struggle with the heat. Likewise, living in a cold climate and heating with wood could cause serious problems for others. Ultimately, you have to find what works for you, not what works for someone else.

Weather can also affect your ability to produce your own electrical power. If you were to live in Washington State, you might have trouble with solar panels, as the constant rain would reduce the available sunlight. For that, you’d be better off in the Southwest, where it is dryer and there’s lots of sunlight.

Of course, there’s always a lot of tradeoffs when looking at different places. That location in the Southwest might give you ample sunlight, but it will also be a whole lot hotter. So, you’ll probably need more sunlight, so that your solar panels could produce enough electricity for your air conditioner.

Domestic Retirement Destinations

Most people will want to retire somewhere in the Continental United States, so that they can be close to family and friends. While this isn’t as cheap as living overseas, let’s face it, making a move that keeps you within the country is considerably easier than going outside the country.

Cumberland Mountains

The Beverly Hillbillies probably made one of the most expensive moves in history, moving from the Cumberland Mountains to Hollywood, California. Personally, I think that old Jed Clampett would have been better off building himself a nice house back home in Tennessee, but then, he wouldn’t have had his own television show if he had done that.

The Cumberland Mountains straddle Kentucky, Tennessee, and a bit of the western part of North Carolina and the Virginias. It’s beautiful mountain country, which really isn’t all that densely populated. That makes for rather low cost of living, as well as not a whole lot of government officials breathing down your neck about regulations.

But the real trick is to get yourself up in the backwoods, where nobody will be looking for you.

While I would personally prefer living in the Rocky Mountains myself, living in the Cumberlands would prove to be a whole lot cheaper. Land in the Rocky Mountains is high, pretty much anywhere you go.

Ozarks

Like the Cumberland Mountains, there are a lot of backwoods areas in the Ozarks, which includes the northern parts of Arkansas and the southern part of Missouri. There’s some beautiful hill country there, even though it really isn’t mountainous. People tend to be friendly and the cost of living is rather low.

One nice thing about this area is that the climate is rather temperate. You’ll have four full seasons, without winter coming so early that you can’t get a crop harvested from your vegetable garden. At the same time, you won’t have the really hot summers that are common in the Deep South.

The Northwest

I’m not sure that calling it the Northwest is the right term, but the area of Idaho, Montana, Wyoming and the Dakotas is one of the more sparsely populated parts of the country. As such, it’s a great place to go if you’re looking for a lot of wide open country. In fact, the state of Montana is nicknamed “Big Sky Country.”

These are fairly strong conservative states, so there’s not going to be as much government meddling in your life as there would be in the coastal areas.

That makes it much easier to establish an off-grid lifestyle, without having a bunch of bureaucrats telling you what’s wrong with that. It’s also great country for hunting, allowing you to augment your larder, without spending a fortune at the butcher shop.

Rio Grande Valley

The southern tip of Texas is known as the “Rio Grande Valley;” three lies for the price of one. That term was coined by real-estate developers who were trying to talk settlers from the east into buying farmland there. Invoking the image of a wide, green valley might have sold land, but it wasn’t very honest.

The problem with the Rio Grande Valley is that it’s hot and dry. If you like that, then it’s a great place for you. But I’ll warn you, hot there is really hot. They say that people who live there won’t have to go to hell, because they’ve already experienced the heat.

On the flip side of the coin, the Rio Grande Valley is one of the cheapest places there is in the country to live, with one of the lowest costs of living. Maybe that’s why it’s such a popular retirement destination, with mobile home parks all over the place, dedicated to retired people.

Land is also relatively cheap, allowing you to buy a couple of acres outside of town much lower than you can in many other parts of the country.

The hot temperature does provide one great advantage for those who live there; you can grow crops pretty much year round. So, if you’re planning on growing a lot of your own food as part of your off-grid strategy, the Rio Grande Valley is the destination for you.

Buy an Island

Ok, this one probably isn’t practical for most people, just because of the high price tag, but I like the idea anyway. That is, buy yourself a private island. Yes, there are islands for sale, mostly in the Northeast and Northwest.

While island living isn’t cheap, it’s a great way to get away from it all; and who is going to complain about you living off-grid, when there’s no easy way to get electricity and city water to you?

Islands, by their very nature, are easy to secure. So you probably wouldn’t have much of a problem with the neighborhood kids stealing your hubcaps. For that matter, you might not have any hubcaps anyway; more like a boat. Any car you owned would probably have to be stored on the mainland and would only be used for shopping trips.

Foreign Retirement Destinations

For those who are a little more adventurous, moving outside the United States can provide you with one major advantage, it’s cheap. As long as you stay out of Europe and places like Singapore, the cost of living in much of the world is much cheaper than it is here at home.

Nor is living off-grid considered to be strange. In fact, there are many millions of people in third-world and emerging countries who live off-grid, simply because they don’t have the option of living on-grid.

You can forget about the idea of laws that prevent you from living off-grid; even if you have electricity and water available, nobody is going to think anything of you, if you choose not to use them.

Mexico

Our immediate neighbor to the south is probably the easiest destination to move to. The cost of living in Mexico is considerably less than the United States, even though some things are pretty much the same. That is, the cost is low if you stay out of the tourist destinations.

I live close to Mexico, and I’ve found that Mexican doctors and dentists are excellent, as well as being dirt cheap by our standards. Mexican pharmaceuticals are much cheaper too. In fact, some retired Americans come to the border yearly, just to buy their medications.

There are a couple of potential problems with moving to Mexico though. First off, you really need to speak Spanish, at least enough to carry on a conversation. While there are some people in Mexico who speak English, you really can’t count on finding one when you need them.

Secondly, Mexican law doesn’t allow foreigners to buy property within 25 miles of the borders or large bodies of water. There is a way around this though, simply have a lawyer set up a trust and have the trust buy the land.

Belize

Speaking of Latin America, there’s an even better destination to think about than Mexico, that’s Belize. This small country, located just at the southern tip of Mexico, has a low population and not much else. But English is the predominant language there, making it much easier to move to Belize than to move to Mexico.

In fact, there are enough Americans moving to Belize to retire, that there are real estate companies which specialize in servicing them. But I’d avoid them if I were you, they make their money by selling Americans property for about three times what they pay. You’re much better off buying privately.

Bahamas and Caribbean Islands

While most of us think of the Bahamas and Caribbean Islands as nothing more than vacation destinations, someplace to go on a cruise, they’re actually wonderful retirement locations.

There are a number of the islands which are extremely cheap to live on, if you get away from the tourist traps, and most of the governments will be glad to leave you alone, thankful for the American Dollars you bring into their economy.

These islands also offer you the opportunity to establish a retirement business, serving other Americans who go there on vacation. If you really want to go off-grid, just buy yourself a sailboat and make the islands your home.

There are a lot of options to choose from! Whatever you do after retirement, plan it wisely and prepare for the worst!

This article has been written by Bill White for Survivopedia.



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How to Store Fuel

Written by Guest Contributor on The Prepper Journal.

Editor’s Note: Another guest submission from Zac Martin. This is a subject that hasn’t been written about in awhile. I did add links to the previous The Prepper Journal posts on the subject at the end for your research. Be safe out there and note my closing message!

A friend of mine just evacuated his mother-in-law from Florida prior to Hurricane Irma’s arrival. I’d heard multiple reports on the news of severe gas shortages all throughout the state and so I asked him if he had had any trouble with filling up his tank.

His response? He had had to drive to three separate gas stations before he finally found one that hadn’t been run dry. What would he have done had they not had enough gas in their car to search all over town for gas stations that weren’t empty yet? He potentially could have been stranded in an area that was being evacuated, or worse.

We’ve had an active hurricane season this year, and there are further reports that we are going to continue to experience a gas shortage this season’s until hurricanes finish pummeling our coastlines.

So how do you avoid gas shortages when crap happens? When the pump runs dry what do you do? Your car will no longer get you anywhere, and if there’s a power shortage in your area (which there is a high probability of if people are evacuating), then eventually your gasoline-powered generator won’t work either.

No generator = no refrigerator, and this can have big repercussions if you have stored medication that needs to be kept cold or a decent amount of food that will otherwise go to waste. Just look at the current state of Puerto Rico. They’ve got absolutely no power and nobody has any idea of when it will be back on. How do you keep your father-in-law’s insulin refrigerated when you have no gasoline?

As you can see, the wisest course of action would be to have at least some fuel stored prior, but there are a lot of questions this raises.

  • How long does gasoline last? Doesn’t diesel degrade? Where should I store it?

We’re going to aim to answer these questions and more throughout this article.

Fuel Storage Basics

The general rule of thumb when it comes to storing fuel is that the more refined the fuel is, the shorter the shelf life is going to be. This means that kerosene, being the least refined, is going to last a much longer time than gasoline does. On average:

  • Kerosene will store 15+ years
  • Diesel will store somewhere around 8-10 years
  • And gasoline will store approximately 2 years

Storing fuel any longer than this can result in engine troubles if you decide to use it. With time, decomposition occurs which can result in gums and peroxides accumulating within the fuel. These can then clog fuel filters, lines and pumps and make it so your engine won’t run altogether.

Gasoline has further problems with becoming useless over time because the butane that’s added to it to help your engine start will evaporate.

So what can we do to protect our fuel?

  1. Protect your fuel from the elements

The first and most important thing that you can do to protect your stored fuel is to make sure that you actually have it stored in a secure container. Fuel needs to be kept away from moisture as this will accumulate within the fuel causing problems when you do finally use it. The best place to store fuel would probably be in a sealed underground container, but those are expensive and a lot harder to come by.

Good ol’ fashioned fuel cans are going to be the most common form of storage for the average American. Do what you can to store these canisters in an area that is not exposed to extremes of temperature or moisture. By doing this you will help to preserve the integrity of your fuel long term.

  1. Use a fuel stabilizer for gasoline

Fuel stabilizers work by preventing the decomposition of the different compounds within fuel, with the most common fuel stabilizer you’ll find being Sta-Bil.

Sta-Bil is a wonderful fuel stabilizer that will actually increase the longevity of your fuel, particularly gasoline. You can find it at essentially any home-improvement-y store out there and I’ve found it at Tractor Supply, Lowe’s, and Home Depot just to name a few.

  1. Buy Gasoline for Storage During the Winter

Gasoline has butane added to it. Butane evaporates over time. This makes starting your car/generator/whatever even more difficult during colder months. Gasoline companies know that butane evaporates, and they also know that if your car doesn’t start during the cold you may assume that the last gas station you went to sold you junk gas.

  

So, they add extra butane to gasoline during the winter time (the infamous “winter blend” always talked about when refineries slow production to switch) to help with cold-weather engine starting. Buying and storing winter-produced gasoline will mean that your gasoline will have extra butane added to it meaning that it will last longer than summer-time gasoline.

  1. Use an Antibacterial for Long-term Diesel Storage

It’s fairly common to have at least some water find its way into your fuel, whether that be from condensation or a faulty gasket. With diesel, that water will have a higher density and sink to the bottom of the fuel tank. However, right where the water line meets the diesel line bacteria and fungi have the potential to grow and cause problems if given enough time and the right conditions.

These bacteria and fungi can give off acidic byproducts which in turn can result in sediment (affectionately referred to as ‘diesel sludge’) depositing at the bottom of the tank, plugged fuel filters, tank corrosion, and crappy fuel. Using a biocide such as Bellicide with long term diesel storage can help to eliminate this problem before it ever becomes an issue.  Sta-Bil also has similar diesel storage products however, and I’m personally more familiar with them.

Wrapping it Up

Nobody wants to be stranded in a potentially dangerous area without access to quality gasoline. Therefore, storing a reasonable amount and taking care of it is a very wise precaution. By following the above tips, you’ll be much better prepared to get your family and yourself out of dodge when the going gets tough.

Sources (article)

  1. Rawles, James Wesley. Patriots: A Novel of Survival in the Coming Collapse. P59-60.
  2. Bell Performance. “Label says ‘fights algae’ but do you need a diesel fuel algaecide. https://www.bellperformance.com/blog/bid/111973/Label-Says-Fights-algae-But-Do-You-Need-a-Diesel-Fuel-Algaecide Published December 31, 2012.

Former Subject-matter related Posts on The Prepper Journal:

Editors Note: While we are big fans of Jerry Cans, and think they are the best for storing fuels at home, they are NOT suitable for storing potable water! They have an internal coating that is non-reactive with fuels that protects the can from corrosion and the fuel from reacting with the metal. However this coating will dissolve into water stored in the cans and it is very bad for you. From their official site under FAQ:

“CAN YOU USE THESE CANS FOR STORING WATER OR POTABLE WATER?
This can is not to be used with water. Water will mix with the liner and fuel will not. Wavian cans should never be filled with water. But you can use these plastic BPA Free jerry cans.”
Be careful because a lot of “survival” boards will have posts from someone claiming they raised their child from birth with water stored in a Jerry Can and the kid is now 12 and fine. They leave out that he has three eyes, no nose and a third arm! 😉 Kidding aside, the Jerry Can is NOT for water.

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Thursday, September 28, 2017

A Bug Out Bag for Frequent Flyers

Written by Guest Contributor on The Prepper Journal.

Editors Note: A guest submission from Cellcounter about a different disaster you may have to factor into your prepper planning!. As always, if you have information for Preppers that you would like to share and possibly receive a $25 cash award, as well as being entered into the Prepper Writing Contest AND have a chance to win one of three Amazon Gift Cards  with the top prize being a $300 card to purchase your own prepping supplies, then enter today!

One of the challenges of being a dedicated prepper is that is almost impossible to cover all contingencies. No matter how well you plan, prepare and stock up, you can always have situations arise that you did not prepare for or count on.

For me, one of my almost daily challenges, involves travel. I fly over 200,000 miles domestically every year. This can keep me on the road and in the air almost five days a week. Not the best “Bug Out” scenario, huh?

Over the past three years I have developed a travel friendly, TSA compliant, carry on, bug out bag.

 vs    

First, let me say a few words about what you carry. Do not try to carry credit card knives, ceramic knives, or any type of knife device intended to be covert. TSA will find it and you will be arrested. I have witnessed this with my own eyes on several occasions.

    

I am going to list each item and explain how it fits into the travel bug out bag scenario. Each item will have a “problem” rating. A number will appear in parenthesis ahead of each item indicating how many times I have been stopped because of the item. If I have never been stopped because of the item, “NI” will appear indicating NO ISSUES.

First, EDC (Everyday carry) items. These items should be in your pockets when you approach the TSA checkpoint. You will be required to place these items into a TSA “dog dish” for pass thru in the scanner. Any keys, metal coins, cell phones, etc. must go into the dish as well.

  • (1) Tactical 300 lumen flashlight – I have been stopped only once with this flashlight and TSA only wanted me to unscrew the lid to the battery compartment so they could view the battery
  • (NI) Standard “Bic” type lighter – Yes, believe it or not, you are allowed to carry a standard lighter with you. You cannot have any torch type or jet type lighter. These will be confiscated by TSA
  • (1) Metal tactical ink pen – These pens are available in many shapes and sizes. Stick with the smaller size and make sure you can demonstrate that it writes if stopped and questioned about it (only questioned once)
  • (NI) Paracord bracelet – This a handy item for many situations and has never been an issue.
  • (NI) Large metal coin – A large metal coin can be used as a flat-head screwdriver, can be heated to seal wounds or as a hand warmer when placed in between two pieces of cloth. I have a large NRA coin that I have carried for six years. Challenge coins are great as well.

On to the bug out bag itself. I use the Travelon Packable Multi Pocket Back Pack. I do not unfold it, but leave it in its compact size. Unfolded it expands to 19” x 12.5” x 6”. I place it in my computer bag or shoulder messenger bag. Leaving it in its compact form, I still can put the following items in it:

  • (NI) Eton Scorpion AM/FM/NOAA Emergency Radio – This is one of the most compact radio units out there. It has both solar charging and crank operations. It has an LED flashlight built in and a tough rubberized case and is waterproof. A top-mounted carabiner will allow you to attach it to most anything.
  • (NI) Mylar space blanket – These have multiple uses and have never been an issue through security.
  • (NI) Generic Whistle/Compass/Signal Mirror Match Holder – You have seen these dorky things on every survival site on the web. They normally come with matches and a lanyard. REMOVE the matches. Bad day otherwise.
  • (NI) Lifeline First Aid Kit – This is a small, compact kit containing the normal assortment of bandages, gauze, etc. NOTE: Remove the alcohol wipes and moist towelettes from the kit and place them in your quart-size, 3 oz or less TSA bag.
  • (NI) Hotel size bar soap – Never an issue
  • (NI) Small sewing kit – Small variety of needles, safety pins, buttons and thread.
  • (NI) Eton Blackout Buddy H2O – This a small flashlight device that is activated by adding a few drops of water to a sealed compartment on the device. Last up to 12 hours.
  • (NI) Collapsible shopping bag – These fold up to about 2” X 2”. Great for stashing foraged supplies.
  • (NI) Hiking socks (2 pair) – If TSHTF, you will probably be doing a lot of walking.
  • (2) LifeStraw water filters – This is perfect for travel and will outlast your journey. I have been stopped twice with this item. Once I explained what it was, no problem.

Remember, you are already carrying a lot of useful items as part of your regular travel packing.

  • Spare clothing
  • Paper – Notebook paper makes great kindling
  • Pens, sharpies
  • Toiletries – toothbrush, toothpaste, shampoo, body wash, etc.

What scenarios would necessitate needing these preps?

Well, hopefully you are on the ground if an EMP event happens. If you are lucky enough not to be plunging out of the sky, the items you have with you would allow you to start a trek on foot towards home, a safer situation, etc. If you have any experience in prepping for survival, you will be scavenging and foraging as you go.

  

Economic collapse/civil unrest. When the economy goes, it will go quickly. The day the government handout checks will not cash, the country will plunge into anarchy. Angry entitlement recipients will begin looting, plundering and attacking anyone they see as privileged. Other than the tactical pen, the TSA has rendered you weaponless, so your skill set needs to include defensive techniques, etc.

Earthquake/natural disaster. Least likely if you travel domestically as I do but if it did happen, the LifeStraw could be the difference in life or death. Utilities are the first thing to shut down is these situations.

This is by no means and exhaustive list, this is just what I personally carry through trial and error with the TSA. Remember, the TSA has a horrible job. They have to deal with thousands of disgruntled flyers, flyers ignorant of the regulations, and defiant or drunk flyers as well. Your best chance to go through a TSA checkpoint unscathed is to be polite and treat them like humans. Most days, they do not want to be there any more than you do. Happy Trails and be safe out there.

 

 

 

The post A Bug Out Bag for Frequent Flyers appeared first on The Prepper Journal.



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Urban Camping When The Power Is Out

The emotions that accompany living through a disaster then surviving the aftermath are many and complex.

Those of us who are fortunate enough to have a few limbs down or maybe lose some screens or a few roof shingles breathe a sigh of relief, but then feel unnecessarily guilty because we got lucky while our neighbors a few streets over are without power or lost belongings due to flooding, or had a tree fall in their car.

Even if we’re without power, many of us would rather stay in our own homes rather than go stay with a friend, especially if it’s a long-term thing.

Part of that is because home is home. All of your stuff is there and it’s still your sanctuary, even if it’s dark and hot. Part of it is also to protect your property. Unfortunately, the vultures circle after disasters and if they know that a household has evacuated, then the home is fair game for looting.

So, the alternative to imposing on friends – even if they don’t feel that you’re imposing – and leaving your belongings unprotected is staying in your home.

We have a laugh-or-cry joke that our houses turn into giant tents or RVs after a storm and we’re camping in our homes.

And that’s seriously, literally what we’re doing. There’s no power, which means there’s no lights, no air conditioning, no technology, no hot showers, no refrigeration, and often no stove because most stoves here are electric.

The main difference is that we still have our beds, there aren’t as many bugs, and the toilet almost always works. That’s about it.

So, how do you live in a house that’s been turned into a large tent? You take a deep breath, be thankful you still have a house to camp in, find shortcuts and you need to know how to do it safely.

Be Prepared

I probably don’t have to stress the importance of preparation in general, but I will share some details that I’ve learned from experience.

First, don’t wait till the last minute. Ideally, you should have most, if not all, of everything that you need stockpiled. If you don’t, get your rear to the store as soon as you hear the first whisper of impending disaster. If you wait, you’ll be too late.

Now, you probably think that if you have water, canned soups, and maybe ice stocked back, you’ll be fine. Well, yeah, but you don’t need to live that rustically.

Stock up on regular items, too. Chips, juice, a pack or two of Oreos, and maybe a case of beer or a couple of bottles of wine if that’s your thing.

Those types of comfort items make a bad situation a little more comfortable—not that I’m suggesting you drink yourself silly during a hurricane when you’re going to need your wits about you, but you may want to have a beer with dinner after the hurricane, when you’re grilling the stuff from your freezer, and the stores may not have any.

Here are a few more items to stockpile:

  • Charcoal
  • Gasoline for generators and all vehicles
  • Propane for the grill
  • A generator will make your life a thousand times easier. You don’t appreciate a fridge and fan till you don’t have them
  • Comfort foods such as chips
  • Canned soups, canned fruits, and other foods that require minimal preparation and no refrigeration
  • Board games
  • Ice – frozen jugs full of water
  • Hand sanitizer
  • Batteries for your flashlights and games
  • Jar candles or tea light candles – they burn for a few hours and if you drop them in a heat-proof jar, you get quite a bit of light with minimal heat.
  • Matches and/or lighters
  • Cold/hot neck wraps
  • Baby wipes
  • Water, sports drinks, instant coffee/tea
  • Lighter fluid
  • A large cooler
  • Extension cord to run outside to the generator

You’ll be surprised how much the items on this list will come in handy and will mke your life easier if you have to essentially camp in your own house.

Don’t Mess with Power Lines

It never fails that at least one person dies after a storm because they don’t heed his warning. Power Lines carry more than enough juice to kill you. Even if they’re dead, if your chainsaw accidentally hits on one, it can kick back and kill you.

 

This smart device will help you slash an excess of 70% off your power bill overnight…

 

As a matter of fact, this just happened during hurricane Irma. A guy was on a ladder trimming limbs off the power line, and his chainsaw snagged, hit the wire, kicked back up, and hit him in the neck. Completely horrible, and needless, way to die.

If the wires are down, assume they’re hot and stay away from them. Move animals if you need to so that they won’t get hurt either by the wire or the downed limbs and debris.

Don’t Use Grills or Generators Inside

There were four fatalities in my area because people were running their generators inside the house and died from carbon monoxide poisoning.

Running a generator in the house, even if it’s well-ventilated, is akin to sitting in your car in the garage, with a tube running from the exhaust to the cracked window. Seriously. A generator should always be at least 15 feet away from the house – thus the extension cords on the list above.

Grills pose a double hazard if you use them in the house – you’re breathing the smoke and gas/lighter fluid fumes, and you’re also running the risk of burning your house down. That’s certainly an instance of going from bad to worse! Seriously though, keep the grills – whether they’re little camp grills or full-sized outdoor grills where they belong – outside!

Here are some alternative methods to cooking without power that may be better for you.

Keep Your Food Cold

Food poisoning would most certainly make urban camping life miserable, especially if it gets so bad that you need to go to a hospital that you can’t reach or that is likely already inundated with disaster-related illnesses and injuries in addition to its standard load. Keeping your food at a safe temperature will go a long way toward helping keep you well.

There’s a saying in the food industry – keep your hot food hot and your cold food cold. It’s pretty self-explanatory, except for one are that many people overlook, especially when camping, urban or otherwise. That’s what to do with food after you’ve already cooked it.

It’s tempting to leave food out for several hours, especially when you have limited cooler or fridge space, but in order to close that room-temperature window of time when illness-causing bacteria likes to grow, get it cold again within two hours of cooking, or one hour if it’s over 90 degrees where the food is sitting.

Here’s a cool way to make a refrigeration unit with clay pots.

Now, to reduce the chance of raw food spoiling and making you sick, here are some suggestions:

  • Keep meats separate from all other foods, and keep fowl away from red meat to prevent the spread of salmonella
  • Don’t let your food float in ice water in the cooler.
  • Once the ice has melted and the water in your cooler is no longer icy cold, dump it. It’s now a cesspool for bacteria. Use it to flush the commode.
  • Cook thawed meats within a couple hours after they’ve reached room temperature if you don’t have a source of refrigeration or within a few days if you’ve kept them cold. Watch for signs of spoilage such as smell, discoloration, or sliminess.
  • If your meat thaws, don’t just wait for it to go bad. Cook it up – that will buy you a couple of extra days if you can refrigerate it afterwards. If you have too much to eat by yourself, give it to a neighbor or somebody else that’s in need. I promise you that for many folks, a hamburger or a piece of real chicken will taste magnificent if they’ve been living on canned food for three days. Whatever you do, don’t waste it if you can avoid it.

Clean Up Flood Waters

Rule number one in staying healthy while you’re urban camping. If your place was flooded, clean it up. Seriously – flood waters are cesspools for disease.

Scrub everything that you can with hot, soapy water and disinfect with bleach. Especially if your power is off, mold and mildew that can damage everything from your respiratory system to your heart and nervous system will start to grow within just a couple of days. The first thing you need to do is clean up any flood waters. Afterward, wash your hands.

Be Careful with Open Fires

Cooking on an open fire or even having a burn pile to clean up the yard can turn catastrophic quickly. Within just a few days after falling, tree leaves and limbs are excellent tinder, regardless of whether it’s roasting outside or freezing, and a stray ash or spark can turn into an inferno in the blink of an eye.

Be even more careful with outdoor fires than you normally would because you may be existing in perfect-storm circumstances – plenty of dry fuel and a team of first responders that are stretched beyond their limits.

There are several different ways to cook when the power is out, so fire may not be your best option. If it is, be careful.

Maintain Personal Hygiene and a Clean Living Space

As with any SHTF scenario, hygiene is a must. If you have no restroom, make sure that your modified one is in an area that isn’t going to affect your food and water supply or stink up the area where you’re going to be living.

Also, wash your hands frequently (hand sanitizer is awesome in this situation) and keep counters and other areas where food may come into contact clean. Dispose of food waste far away from the house.

Urban camping isn’t going to be a walk in the park, but you can make it as comfortable as possible by avoiding sickness and making the best of things.

Maintaining a positive morale is every bit as critical as maintaining a healthy body – when you start to feel sorry for yourself, or angry, think about the family of the man who died in the chainsaw accident, the family who lost their home, and the small businesses that sustained catastrophic damage to inventory or storefront.

Things could always be worse; at least you have a house to “urban camp” in and friends and family who are healthy enough to be so cranky due to the circumstances that you want to smack them.

It may be tough, but you’ll get over it. And that’s all that matters in the end – everything else is just stuff.

If you’ve lived through a situation that required urban camping and have some hints and tips to share please do so in the comments section below.

This article has been written by Theresa Crouse for Survivopedia.



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Wednesday, September 27, 2017

The Get Back Home Urban Survival Kit

urban survival kitMost of you probably have a bug out bag – having a bug out bag is good insurance in the event you are forced to evacuate your home or retreat for some unforeseen reason. It seems most of us are ready to bug out,  but few of us have considered the need to find our way back home if caught away during an emergency.

No doubt, many of you spend a lot of time away from home, with work, school and business sometimes taking you hundreds of miles away from home. Most of the time this isn’t an issue for me, but recently, I’ve had to make several trips to another state.

What would...

Read the whole entry... »



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Rappelling: A Guide To Basic Equipment And Knots

When it comes to learning new survival skills, there are several things that many think of as sporting or hobby techniques as opposed to something that can save your life in a crisis.

For example, many think of rappelling as a hobby for people interested in the outdoors or mountain climbing instead of something that may be needed to escape an inner city skyscraper or some other area where great heights are involved.

Keep reading and you’ll see what you’re missing!

Before you begin learning how to rappel, it’s important to get good quality gear and know how to tie the basic knots used in this activity.

3 Second SEAL Test Will Tell You If You’ll Survive A SHTF Situation

Remember, no matter where you are rappelling down from, you will be relying solely on your equipment and proper technique. If the equipment or your knots fail, the odds are you will die.

Mandatory Equipment You Need for Rappelling

Gloves

Having and wearing good quality leather climbing gloves is a good idea when rappelling. They will protect your hands from rope burns (especially if you are moving down the rope too fast) as well as from getting dirty from contact with the rope.

Ropes

Actually, this should be the first to mention. The next questions is, what kind of rope should you use? If you climbed a mountain to reach a point to rappel down from, you will more than likely use the same ropes that were used during your ascent.

Before rappelling with these ropes, check them over for signs of stretching, cuts, or other damage that occurred while climbing. I’s always helpful to keep a spare set of unused ropes that you can use for rappelling in case the first set is damaged. Use different colored ropes so that it is easier to figure out which one to pull on.

In the US the standard length of rope for rappelling is 200 feet long. If doing a long rappel two of these ropes must be used. These two ropes are joined together by one of four rappelling knots.

If you are doing a short rappel of under 100 feet, then double back the rope on itself to allow for the 100 foot rappel.

It is safer to use ropes with a 10mm to 11mm diameter. This diameter rope will give more friction when they feed through the rappelling device than smaller diameter ropes. Also, the thicker ropes are less likely to be burned or cut than the thinner ropes.

Safety note: Never tie a thick cord to a thinner one. There is a chance that the knot might work itself loose and create a situation where you will fall to your death.

Rappel anchors

For your safety, a minimum of two anchors are needed to rappel off a cliff. Some people consider three anchors a redundancy, however it never hurts to use one more just in case a problem occurs with the other two.

Anchors can be bolts, pitons, cams, trees, or tied off boulders.

Rappelling ropes

Are always threaded through metal anchor material such as screw quick links, steel descending rings, carabiner.

Never, under any circumstance, use nylon slings as an anchor. These slings can melt, break, or fail if they come into direct contact with the rope and the friction it produces as you are rappelling.

Rappelling device and locking carabiner

The choice of rappelling devices depends on the situation. To help cut down on your climbing weight, it is best to pick a rappelling device that could also be used as a belay device.

Black Diamond ATCs and Trango B-52s are excellent choices for rappelling devices.

Some climbers like to use the Figure-8 descender because it is easy to use and gives the individual a fast smooth ride down.

On the down side, the Figure-8 descender can put kinks in the rope and cause a twisted mess to uncoil that will have to be fixed before you can finish a safe rappel to the ground.

Safety note: Be sure you have a sturdy extra large auto locking carabiner to attach the rappelling device to your harness. A screw gate carabiner will work, but bear in mind it can unscrew and open under load causing serious safety issues.

Harness

Safety note: Always use a climbing harness when rappelling.

A harness forms a comfortable seat for rappelling. The harness is fitted around the waist and upper legs. It is very important that the waist belt fits tightly, has no cracks or worn spots, and has a belaying loop on the front.

If you don’t have a harness, you can make one from webbing.

Personal anchor tether

If you are going from rappel station to station or plan on multiple rappelings, you will need to immediately clip yourself into the anchors at the bottom of each rappel.

If you have already rigged a personal anchor tether on your harness, then it is possible to clip into them as soon as you reach them. Now that you are safe, you can unhitch from the rappelling device and ropes to let the next person rappel down to join you.

Important Rappelling Knots

The autoblock knot

When rappelling, safety must always be your first consideration. As a safety back up, always use an autoblock knot.

This knot is tied below the rappelling device and will prevent you from sliding all the way down the rope if you happen to let your hands go from the rope, you lose control of the speed of descent, or you need to stop traveling downward.

If you stop, this particular knot will tighten automatically and prevent you from rappelling further.

The autoblock knot works well for rappelling because you can loose it and tighten it easily as you move down the rope. It will lock and release while under a load and remain safe. This is also one of the easiest friction knots to tie and remember how to use.

Video first seen on REI.

You are always in control when using an autoblock knot. It allows you to stop and hang to do the following without endangering yourself:

  • Clear rope snags.
  • Toss a rope farther down a cliff.
  • Free twists and knots from the rope.
  • Keeps you from losing control on free or overhanging rappels where you can’t touch the rock.
  • Stops you if you get hit by falling rocks.
  • Prevent you from falling if you feel sick, or something else causes you to need to stop unexpectedly.

Safety note: If you need to stop make sure you let go of the knot. Beginners have died because they gripped the knot, which can cause it to slips and fall apart. Remember to let go and let the knot do its job and lock.

How to keep the autoblock knot from jamming

To keep the autoblock knot from jamming, make sure the cord or sling that forms the autoblock isn’t too long. If it is too long, then the knot can jam in the rappelling device when you stop.

To avoid problems make sure the sling is short enough before rappelling. If it’s too long, tie a knot in the end of the sling to shorten it, or extend the rappelling device from the harness by attaching it to a sling.

Safety note: Always get in the habit of using an autoblock knot whenever you are rappelling.

Stopper Knot

For safety sake always use a stopper knot on the ends of both rope ends to keep you from rappelling off the rappelling ropes.

Video first seen on Gearaholic.

The actual knot configuration is a matter of personal choice. An overhand or a figure eight knot will do well, and is preferred by many rappellers.

4 Important Knot Configurations

The following four knots are the most commonly used and are the best knots for tying your rappelling ropes together. All of these knots are good strong knots.

To work right, however, these knots must be tied right. Your life depends on it. Take the time to practice these knots until you can tie them in the dark, without looking at them, even if you are very tired and exhausted. The more you practice tying these knots, the better chance you will have of tying them correctly in time of need.

The knot you use to tie your rappelling ropes together is a personal choice. It is to your advantage to pick one knot and use it every time you rappel.

Whichever knot you choose, you must be very familiar with it. You must know how to tie it, untie it, and know how much tail to leave at each end to tie the backup knots.

Safety note: All of the 4 rappelling knots except the double overhand knot must have a fisherman’s knot tied on either side for safety.

1. Double overhand knot

This is the fastest and easiest knot to tie of the four rappelling knots. It has less bulk which makes it less likely to snag or get stuck on the surface you are descending.

Safety note: Warning do not use on ropes of different diameters because the knot can untie with very little tension.

2. Double figure 8 fisherman’s knot

This is the usual way to tie rappelling ropes together. It is the strongest of the four, and if tied correctly, will not come undone. It is easy to visually check, and can be used to tie ropes together of unequal diameters.

It is also fairly easy to untie when weighted. On the downside, this knot is quite bulky and can get caught in cracks or other features of the surface you are rappelling down from.

3. Square fisherman’s knot

Of the four rappelling knots this not is the easiest to tie and untie. This knot is just a square knot backed up with double fisherman’s knots on either side.

Safety note: When using this knot always use the back up knots. It is possible for this knot to come untied without them.

4. Double fisherman’s knot

This was the traditional knot to tie two different diameter size ropes together before other knots became more popular.

This knot is hard to visually check, and very hard to untie when wet or being weighted. Today it is used more to tie thinner pieces of accessory cords together.

Even though rappelling equipment isn’t especially complicated, it is still very important to choose good quality gear. When you aren’t using the ropes and other equipment, make sure that it is stored in a clean, dry place.

Do not forget to examine your ropes often and always make sure they are in good condition. No matter whether you are rappelling from a skyscraper or a mountain cliff, it will do no good if the rope has been rotting for several years before you actually need it.

As with many other aspects of prepping, maintenance of your rappelling gear is every bit as important as knowing how to use it. And remember that skills and training are much more important than any gear you might have, becausethey are making the difference between a victim and a survivor!

This article has been written by Fred Tyrell for Survivopedia.



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Herbs and Spices – It is the Little Things

Written by Guest Contributor on The Prepper Journal.

Editors Note: Another guest contribution from Robert Johnson to The Prepper Journal. As many still process and store their own foods, this is valuable information for preppers considering that one day we may be limited to just what we have saved. If you have information for Preppers that you would like to share and possibly receive a $25 cash award as well as be entered into the Prepper Writing Contest with a chance to win one of three Amazon Gift Cards  with the top prize being a $300 card to purchase your own prepping supplies, enter today.

When someone asks you about your preps do you think about how you will flavor your food? I was talking with an experienced prepper at an event the other day and he mentioned his food preparations. We discussed the MREs and staple foods he had stocked up. His growing garden of vegetables, potatoes and squash. He also mentioned his Bug Out location had a great amount of wild game (deer, squirrel, rabbit, snakes, lizards and boar).

  

But the one thing he never talked about was how he was going to prepare his food, or rather how he was going to keep his meals interesting.

  

Anyone who has had bland food knows that it’s hard to eat and get down. Anyone who has experienced eating the same tasteless dish over and over again will tell you that it wears on you.

I have heard some people say they will not care how their food tastes only that they will be able to have food, but if you have ever had to do it you know it can wear on you. Especially since some basic herb and spice combinations can be created and kept to take any food and make it into a more interesting meal.

Once you know the herbs and spices that go together it’s easy to combine them and use them on any dish. Use a different combination for the same dish and you have a completely different meal. Knowing and using different herb combinations will extend your meal preparations, make it easy to have tasty dishes and will most assuredly keep moral up.

CLASSIC HERB AND SPICE COMBINATIONS

FRENCH

Like mirepoix, French cuisine has certain herbs and spices it is known for and they go together well on any dish. French herbs may contain a variety of ingredients including basil, marjoram, thyme, rosemary, bay leaf, sage, or peppercorns. Generally this combination is referred to as bouquet garni which is a generic term for fresh herbs tied into a bundle and used to infuse soups, stews, and stocks. The bundle of herbs is then removed prior to serving. The herbs of thyme, rosemary and basil mixed with lemon goes well in any white meat dish (chicken, pork, and fish). Bay leaf, sage and peppercorn will brighten any red meat (beef, venison).

Another French blend of spices is Herbs de Provence consisting of lavender, fennel, basil, and thyme. These herbs are all native to Provence, France, and provide a flavorful blend, perfect for fish or white meats, and vegetables.

Another blend of spices is Quatre Epices, used in French cuisine, it has a more Mediterranean and Middle Eastern flair. It consists of equal parts of pepper, cloves, nutmeg, and ginger. It is great for for soups, stews, and vegetables, and also meats and vegetables.

CAJUN SEASONING
Sometimes referred to as “blackening” seasoning and it usually has a slight to more aggressive amount of heat and kick to it. It usually consists of paprika, garlic, black pepper, white pepper, and cayenne peppers, thyme, and oregano. It can be used on any meat or fish and generally is coated on the surface and then seared over high heat. The paprika turns a dark color giving the dish a “blackened” look.

CHINESE FIVE SPICES

Generally used on more fatty meats and dishes, the Chinese spices can give any dish a distinct flavor. The usual combination is star anise, cinnamon, cloves, sichuan peppers, and fennel seeds. It can be a spicy but sweet blend.

CURRY POWDER

Although Curry powder may vary based on country or even region, most consist of turmeric, cumin, coriander, and red pepper. You could also add in  ginger, garlic, asafoetida, fennel seed, caraway, cinnamon, clove, mustard seed, green cardamom, black cardamom, nutmeg, white turmeric, long pepper, and black pepper to create different flavor combinations and to suit differing tastes. It is great as an all-purpose seasoning and can be used in stews, meats, vegetables and rice dishes.

CARIBBEAN JERK SEASONING

Native to Jamaica, Jerk Seasoning relies on two spices, allspice and Scotch bonnet peppers, to deliver the flavorful components. You could also include cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, thyme, and garlic to create different flavor combinations. Just like with Cajun Seasoning, Jerk Seasoning is usually applied as a rub to different meats but can also be used as a marinade. Traditionally used for slow cooking, do not be afraid to try with grilling or other meat preparations.

OLD BAY AND OTHER READY MADE COMBINATIONS

One popular ready made seasoning is Old Bay which was created in the Chesapeake Bay area in the early 20th century and is still popular today. Old Bay includes celery seed, bay leaf, pepper, cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamom, mace, ginger, mustard, and paprika. If you have ever made seafood you have probably used it at some point. While it is best known for seafood, it is an all-purpose seasoning which goes great on many meats, and dishes, like popcorn.

At any grocery store you can find a plethora of ready made seasoning mixes. If the idea of mixing your own herbs and spices terrifies you check out the ready made section and grab some different combinations. You can even buy combinations dedicated to specific meats and dishes although I generally buy the combinations that I can use for just about any dish or meat so as to not limit myself. Also do not buy ready made combinations that have salt as the first ingredient as it is generally a filler and the combination usually contains mostly salt and hardly any of the actual herbs and spices you want. Salt is always a great way to flavor food but it can be purchased on its own and in greater bulk for a cheaper price.

Spices and herbs can be bought in bulk but should be stored correctly in airtight containers. Also buying whole herbs and spices generally makes the flavors last longer than buying them in a chopped or crushed form (because they still contain their natural oils.) Also lots of herbs and spices can be grown in your garden if you have one and consider adding space so you have fresh herbs and spices for use with your foods, or to prepare and store for when the SHTF. You can also forage, where legal, for local herbs and spices to flavor your dishes.

Again even if you are surviving, you don’t have to eat bland tasteless food. You can turn the case of Ramen Noodles or that entire deer into a variety of dishes and flavors just by using the right combinations of herbs and spices.

 

 

The post Herbs and Spices – It is the Little Things appeared first on The Prepper Journal.



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