Sunday, July 23, 2017

This Is How Summer Can Kill You

With summer comes great joy, but great dangers also lurk around almost every corner. Okay, the situation may not be as dramatic as I describe it, but the thing is, summer’s heat waves do present a clear and present danger to one’s health, especially in a survival situation.

The thing with summer is that almost all of us are gearing up for going out and experiencing epic adventures. Summer is vacation season and the best time of the year for businesses such as water parks, hot air balloon rides, bungee jumping resorts, para-sailing docks, and so on and so forth.

You see where this is going, right? Keep reading to find out!

Well, while you’re standing in line at any of these fine establishments, the thought that goes through your mind is probably, “This is how I’m going to die?”

Truth be told, this pessimistic state of mind is the logical consequence of years of horror stories pushed by the mainstream media, depicting terrifying accidents and misfortunes that people suffered during their summer holiday.

People died in all sorts of gruesome circumstances while having the time of their lives, i.e. when their hot-air balloon drifted into high-power lines, their parachute failed or their boat flipped at high speeds or on rushing rivers. Folks died or lost limbs while enjoying the ultimate ride at amusement parks or when hiking without proper training/guidance etc.

The nightmarish stories of good times gone bad go on and on.

And then there’s always death from exposure. To give you a grim statistic, heat exposure kills thirty outdoor workers on average on a yearly basis.

What we’re about talking here are agricultural, roofing, construction and landscaping workers; these folks are particularly at risk, especially during heat waves which promote heat-related deaths and illnesses such as heat stroke and heart attacks.

How will you survive when there is no doctor around? 

Keep in mind that the elderly are particularly affected by heat waves and in some geographical locations (like Arizona), air conditioning is not a luxury, but a necessity.

#1 Killer in the Summer Is…

So, let’s begin with the biggest killer during the summer season, which is heat, obviously.

Prolonged exposure to heat – especially humid heat – would have immediate effects on one’s health and state of mind alike. Heat stroke and heat exhaustion are the most common issues associated with scorching heat, but sometimes the effects of prolonged exposure to excessive heat may take odd forms.

The most important thing one must realize during the summer is that dehydration is a killer. To stay properly hydrated, you should drink at least 2 liters of water per day (or approximately half a gallon), but that’s an average figure and it depends upon your age, gender, physical condition, and circumstances.

For example, you’ll require way more than 2 liters of water per day if you’re hiking in scorching heat or if you’re working out, rather than staying indoors in a house without air conditioning etc. That’s common sense, though.

If you don’t drink enough water to replace the loss of fluids which occurs via sweating, you’ll put your body in a state of emergency, as your body is losing salt and water and not getting enough electrolytes.

Salt, magnesium, and potassium imbalances caused by dehydration may cause cramps, cardiac arrhythmia, dizziness, and confusion – basically your brain doesn’t work right.

For people who aren’t used to heat, there’s also always the risk of heat edema and, worst case scenario, a fatal heat stroke when your body gives up and stops sweating. This occurs when you’re exposed to extreme heat for long periods of time and is called anhidrosis.

However, the most common problem that occurs during a summer heat wave is heat exhaustion.

Heat exhaustion is a consequence of one’s body losing significant amounts of salt and water; sans electrolytes, the body can’t cope with heat anymore. Salt and potassium are the two primary minerals that control your blood pressure and when you sweat, they’re two of the first that you lose.

Obviously, heat exhaustion and all heat related ailments are particularly dangerous in a survival situation, i.e. when you’re outdoors hiking, climbing, or whatever.

Heat exhaustion’s first symptom is when the core temperature rising above 98.6, your normal body temperature, resulting in intense thirst, heavy sweating, dizziness, and an overwhelming feel of fatigue. Your body is literally starting to cook.

The first thing that you need to do is get out of the heat if possible and hydrate, obviously. Avoid strenuous activities during the day in open sunny spots, especially if there’s a heat-wave warning.

Now, if heat exhaustion sets in, you must find a cool, shaded location and remove the victim’s clothes, including (especially) the shoes and socks then, apply wet clothes to the victim’s  face, head, neck, and if possible, their feet.

Spray with cool water if possible. Encourage the victim to drink as much water as possible. Sport drinks (if available) are great, as they contain minerals and vitamins (the famous electrolytes included) together with sugar, which gives the body a boost but push water, too.

Try to get medical aid as soon as possible, especially if you spot the early signs of a heat stroke (way worse than heat exhaustion), which include:

  • profuse sweating or hot,
  • dry skin,
  • a core temperature of around 104 degrees F (or higher),
  • feeling cold (yes, it seems strange, but it’s a fact),
  • loss of consciousness, and/or seizures.

All of these symptoms are signaling that the body’s mechanisms for coping with heat have failed and he/she’s at the death’s door. Heat strokes are very serious as they have a mortality rate of about ten percent, and yes, people really do die in extreme heat conditions, and it’s not rare.

Most people who die during heat waves are elderly folk living in big cities in the upper floors of buildings, especially old, inadequately ventilated condo buildings. Just in the US, over 600 people die annually and thousands visit emergency rooms due to extreme heat conditions.

Since we’ve already established that heat is a silent killer, as the weather gets more extreme, avoid the main danger by staying out of the sun. If you’re outdoors on foot, avoid traveling during the day, and do it by night, like Bedouins.

If you find yourself traveling or lost in the wilds in the heat, drinking lots of water and covering your head and your entire body in white (best case scenario) sheets would go a long way toward preserving your body’s reserve of electrolytes if traveling during the day.

The rule of the thumb is that when your core temperature gets above 104 degrees Fahrenheit, you’re in serious trouble.

Obese and elderly people are especially vulnerable to heat, and small children have tiny hearts which are not always capable of cooling their bodies efficiently. Kids also have a slow sweat response, which puts them in danger in extreme situations.

And here are a few more hints on surviving the heat:

  • try to avoid caffeine and alcoholic beverages (they act as diuretics) during heat waves,
  • maintain a proper level of hydration at all times,
  • when indoors, try to eliminate extra sources of heat (computers and appliances left running, computers, etc.),
  • don’t eat big, protein-rich meals as they warm the body by increasing metabolic heat, be ready to recognize the early symptoms of heat exhaustion and heat stroke and take action.

Beware the Dangers in the Water!

Another thing to keep in mind during the hot summer season is that jumping in public swimming pools, lakes and ponds are not the best ideas for beating the heat wave. You should think at least twice before diving in these cesspools, which are giant petri dishes by any definition, leaving aside that going into cold water when you body is overheated can bring on a heart attack.

Even chlorinated swimming pools are filled with chlorine-resistant bacteria (think Cryptosporidium, a bacteria living in the stomach, E.coli etc.) which can cause all sorts of disease, especially for people with immune issues.

Freshwater lakes and rivers are also home to a myriad of bacteria, viruses, and amoebas. All these tiny bugs that flourish in warm water may cause diarrhea and vomiting, which are exacerbating the dangers of dehydration, if you catch my drift.

And with dehydration, heat exhaustion and heat stroke are just around the corner, provided you don’t deal with it immediately. It doesn’t take more than a few minutes – less than 30 – for the situation to go from bad to worse if the conditions are right.

Besides the relatively harmless e Coli and Cryptosporidium, there are killer bacteria and viruses in lakes and rivers, which can infect you via water getting inside the nasal passage and then to the brain.

For example, Naegleria fowleri can cause a deadly infection of your CNS (central nervous system), called amoebic meningo-encephalitis.

There are dangers in paradise too, especially during the summer season when these places are packed full of people trying to relax and enjoy their vacations.

When Summer Turns into Disaster

The beach may look like paradise on Earth, but it’s not all fun and serenity. Beaches are also filled with dangers, and we’re not talking about heat stroke alone. Coastal areas in some parts of the planet are prone to tsunamis and others to hurricanes.

One may say that beaches are prime real estate when it comes to natural disasters, hence, stay frosty and learn your escape routes just in case disaster hits. Most coastal areas are using early warning systems including sensors which monitor storm and earthquake activity and issue hurricane/tsunami alerts.

Toxic algal blooms happen almost every summer in places like Florida, on its Gulf Coast especially. Algal blooms kill fish and shellfish and they also render them unsafe to eat. Remember to avoid eating shellfish and fish from areas affected by toxic algal blooms; also, avoid swimming in waters infested by these critters.

Even if shark attacks are relatively rare, keep in mind that where there are fish in the ocean, there also might be sharks, hence avoid swimming near fishing areas and also avoid murky waters and areas were fishing boats and diving sea birds abound.

It’s also important to remember not to swim alone, sharks or not, and never at dawn or dusk because that’s when sharks feed. Watches and jewelry gleam like fish scales in the water, so get rid of them.

Another danger for beach goers is rip currents, which may pull even the Olympic swimming champion away from the shore. These fast-moving currents of water kill at least one hundred people annually, especially at surf beaches, and those are just US figures.

If you’re caught in such a rip current, try not to fight it. Go with the current and swim parallel to the beach, and try to swim back to shore once you manage to pull out of the current. If that doesn’t do the job, try to float/tread water until the current stops and try to call for help.

Edge Sports Have Their Price

Parasailing is an awesome summer activity for thousands of Americans. If you’re not from this planet, parasailing means that you’re towed behind a boat using a parachute canopy while flying like Superman.

Even though this may sound safe as far as extreme sports go, the majority of fatal parasailing accidents occur as a result of high wind conditions. To play it safe, make sure the weather is friendly before engaging in such crazy activities, alright?

Scuba diving is another all-time favorite activity doing the summer season, but is plunging in deep blue waters safe? Well, pretty much yes, but there are caveats to that.

The most common causes of death during scuba diving are oxygen supply problems, cardiac issues, and emergency ascent. To play it safe when scuba diving, make sure you are prepared for the water and you’ve learned all the techniques from your instructor.

Next on the list is skydiving. Skydiving is immensely fun for those crazy bastards with no self-preservation instincts. I’m kidding, but yes, skydiving is becoming increasingly popular among certain folk during summer vacation.

Even though you’re more susceptible to death by a lightning strike or a bee sting than due to skydiving gone wrong, make sure to look for riggers, jumpers and pilots with proper certification before making the big jump into the abyss. The same goes for bungee jumping.

White water rafting is another dangerous summer activity and there are tons of potential hazards involved in this awesome water sport. To reduce risks associated with white water rafting, never boat alone, wear a life jacket and a helmet at all times, and don’t overestimate your skills.

If you’re a hot air balloon aficionado, make sure your ‘ballooner” has all the necessary paperwork and be aware of adverse weather conditions, especially wind, before getting in the basket.

Whatever you do during summer, stay safe and be aware of the dangers. Ultimately, learn your lesson about first aid and surviving without medical assistance. Click the banner below to get the knowledge!

I hope the article helped. If you have other ideas or comments, feel free to use the dedicated section below!



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Saturday, July 22, 2017

Prep Blog Review: 5 Survival Lists To Keep On Hand

Everybody uses lists, it’s a fact. Whether we like it or not, we need them to keep things organized, or to remember and prioritize activities. You can’t skip them while prepping, so let’s make use of them here too.

I’ve gathered a few tops and lists to remember about different aspects of prepping, after stumbling upon other survival websites this week. And what do you think I’ve came up with in the end? You guessed: another list. Here it is!

3 Incredible Stories of Survival: What We Can Learn From 3 Men Who Beat All the Odds

“Hello, my friend and welcome back!  Today I have a great post for you from Chris Browning and it’s a good one.  He is the editor of Gun News Daily – www.gunnewsdaily.com.  It’s longer than what I usally post,  but well worth the effort.  The best way to learn to survive is to learn from those who have had to fight to survive already. Their stories and insights provide the best training you can get.  Grab a cup of coffee my friend and have a seat while we visit.”

Read more on American Preppers Online.

23 Herbs and Veggies You Can Grow on Your Porch

“Urban gardening is all about making the most out of the space you’ve got. All it takes to turn your outdoor balcony or back porch into a full-on garden is a pinch of creativity and a dash of strategy.

Rather than planting one crop in one small pot, we are going to focus on planting multiple crops in one sizeable pot. This method makes the most of your space and gives you the most variety of veggies and herbs possible.”

Read more on Urban Survival Site.

19 Survival Uses for Plastic Bottles

“I must say that it saddens me seeing what humans have done to our planet.  Any time you find a water source, you will likely find trash scattered along the shore.

Often times this trash is going to be plastic bottles.  It seems to be the most common item to be tossed aside, especially in water.  This littler is absolutely destroying our planet.

However, one man’s trash is another man’s treasure.  I cannot tell you how many times I have used garbage in the wild to get through survival situations.  Plastic bottles are one of the most common and most useful pieces of trash you will ever find for survival. I can assure you that we will show you enough uses for plastic bottles that you will think twice about walking past one in the wild.”

Read more on Modern Survival Online.

16 Things to Stockpile for the Next Blackout

“Major blackouts are more common now than ever before. Most of us have experienced a blackout for a few hours. A blackout is a power outage that can range from a few hours to months. They might happen because of a major storm, a hurricane, a transformer blowing, or other issues. It is a good idea for everyone to stockpile things for the next blackout.

You might be new on your preparedness journey or find it strange to prepare for an entire year without power. No matter where you are on your journey, I encourage you to prepare for at least a two-week period without electricity. Why? There are dozens of examples of this happening. If you live along the coast, a major hurricane can wipe out the power grid for multiple weeks. Earthquakes, major storms, and blizzards all frequently cause blackouts. Everyone is at risk.”

Read more on Survival Sullivan.

6 Principles of Survival – Maintain Core Body Temperature

“Shelter and Fire are ONE.  Long term survival requires the proficiency of both.  Maintaining Core Body Temperature is vital, and without shelter and fire the body is highly susceptible to hypothermia.

In this two part series we will look at the concept and application of Shelter and Fire. Maintaining a solid 98.6o will ensure your body does not become susceptible to hypothermia or hyperthermia.”

Read more on Survival School.

This article has been written by Gabrielle Ray for Survivopedia.



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Friday, July 21, 2017

Calling ALL Contributors!

Written by Wild Bill on The Prepper Journal.

Editor’s Note: We are looking for new and varied entries for the Prepper Writing Contest. If you have information for Preppers that you would like to share and possibly win a $300 Amazon Gift Card to purchase your own prepping supplies, enter today.

As you know guest Contributors have added significant value to the site and to our followers. Like Rick, more of you have a following than you know and our readers are anxious to hear more, hear of new things and of old things that have proven themselves over time and practice.

We would like to suggest articles on long-term food storage system successes and yes, even failures as that is how most of us learn. Articles on vehicle spare parts and supplies you NEVER go 4-wheeling without? What tools can’t you survive without and what tools can fill more than a single function thus reducing weight in your bug-out supplies?

Going back to an article titled “Am I The Only One Who Saw “TERMINATOR”, published on January 20th of this year, new articles have been published this week on significant advances in AI (Artificial Intelligence) and by very reputable scientists who have linked the next steps to make a self-sufficient robot. Change is good, change is constant and change affects us all, so what changes concern you?

If you have submitted something in the last 60 days we are going through those now and we thank you and we will get those out ASAP. So don’t be shy, we thrive on diverse opinions and good ideas. And as always, THANK YOU!

 

The post Calling ALL Contributors! appeared first on The Prepper Journal.



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What Did You Do To Prep This Week?

Good morning folks or afternoon, or evening, depending on when you’re reading this weeks awesome “what did you do to prep this week” segment.

But before we get started I’d like to thank everyone who has sent me emails to let me know how much that they are enjoying my new prepper news website at MDCreekmore.com. Your kind words and suggestions are appreciated. It’s still a work in progress and one that I’m doing my best to make a one stop source for everything that’s important each day.

If you’ve been reading this site...

Read the whole entry... »



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Survival Guns: Q&A On Deep Cleaning Your Ruger LCR

There is no such thing as a gun that does not need routine cleaning and maintenance. You can count on Murphy’s law to render your gun useless at the worst possible moment unless you take good care of it.

Even when a gun is in storage it should be cleaned and lightly oiled a couple of times a year. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

But how often is often enough? Many people still have questions about cleaning their guns, and our reader T. – who owns a Ruger LCR – is only one of them. Keep reading to get the answer!

“How often should I send my Ruger 357mag LCR (5-shot) to the factory to be deep cleaned, inspected, parts replaced as necessary?  I really don’t want this job and quotes seem reasonable under $100. I shoot ~10min/week or  9hrs/year mostly HSM .357 Mag, 125 Grain JHP Ammo. Asking b/c my 6.5 year old Glock 27 acting up so had to send it in recently. 

Best, T.”

The Ruger LCR (5 shot) in .357 Magnum was designed primarily looking for a light weight, compact, easy-to-conceal revolver for self defense. Each time you fire your revolver, it must be cleaned and examined for signs of excess wear and tear.

Cleaning the revolver removes bullet and powder residue from all cylinder parts, the action, and the barrel in revolvers, while lubrication helps to keep the revolver operating smoothly without binding up or freezing under heavy use.

While the Ruger LCR can shoot 125 grain magnum ammo, I don’t recommend using this weight constantly because it puts a lot of wear on the internal parts. Not only will you have to deep clean the gun more often, it will more than likely wear out in just a few years.

For range practice I would recommend shooting either 38 Special or .38 Special + P ammunition. This will keep the wear and tear down to a minimum.

Finally only shoot a few .357 Magnum rounds (5 to 10) every 2 – 3 months to keep you in practice with the recoil and the muzzle flash – both of which are more intense with this revolver than they would be with a heavier weapon.

Click here to get your guide on how to build your layered survival defense!

Simple Wipe Down Cleaning For the Ruger LCR

If you don’t wish to clean your revolver at the range after shooting, at least wipe down all exterior parts of the revolver.

This will remove powder residue and finger oils that can cause your weapon to start rusting. This is only a quick fix and a standard cleaning should be done as soon as possible.

Standard Cleaning of a Ruger LCR Revolver

  1. Always open the cylinder and make sure there are no bullets in it.
  2. Be sure you have all of your cleaning supplies together where the revolver cleaning will take place.
  3.  Tie a clean, soft cloth or rag around the rear cylinder opening. This will prevent the revolver from being damaged while you are pushing the bore brush through the barrel. It will also keep dirt from the bore brush from getting into that area.
  4. Choose the correct size bore brush and dip it in cleaning solvent.
  5.  Insert the bore brush into the front of the barrel. Continue feeding until it passes through the barrel and exits the other end. Then pull the cleaning rod back through the barrel and out the muzzle. Sometimes if the barrel is really dirty, I will repeat dip the bore brush in solvent again to finish removing the fouling.
  6. Next dip a fresh cleaning patch in cleaning solvent. Then run it down the barrel from the muzzle to the cone of the barrel. As a rule of thumb I use one solvent covered patch, and then follow it up with 2 or 3 dry patches. Keep doing this until the dry patches come out clean. After the barrel is cleaned, remove the rag covering the rear cylinder opening.
  7. Clean around the muzzle with a small toothbrush or gun cleaning brush. Next, put some solvent on the brush and clean the rear cylinder opening.
  8. Use the toothbrush with a little more solvent on it and brush the cylinder on the outside and on each end.
  9. Next, use a small cleaning brush or tooth brush and solvent to clean the extractor rod. Be sure to clean the front, back, and outside of the cylinder. Push in the cylinder extraction rod, and clean the star. Do not forget to clean the rest of the rod that was sitting between the cylinders.
  10. Take a bore brush and cleaning solvent to clean each of the cylinders the same way you cleaned the barrel. Don’t forget to go all the way through on each side of the cylinder.
  11. To clean each individual cylinder, first use a clean patch with solvent followed by 2-3 dry clean patches to remove any residue.
  12. Get another clean cloth and apply some gun oil to it. Use this to wipe down the outside of the revolver without oiling the grips. Then oil the inside of the barrel and each of the cylinders.
  13. Wipe off all excess oil with a clean rag. Don’t forget to oil the ejection rod and ejector. Use just a drop of oil, and work the rod a few times to spread the oil.
  14. Finish the cleaning process by using a silicon gun cloth to polish up the gun.

How to Lubricate the Ruger LCR revolvers

Each time you do a standard cleaning, or deep cleaning for the Ruger LCR, you should also take the time to lubricate the following parts.

Start off by lubricating the cylinder and the ejector:

  1. Apply lubricant to two spots only. First, apply a small drop on the ejector where it contacts the cylinder, then work it in.
  2. Next put a small drop on the crane pivot and clean off the any excess.
  3.  Wipe off any excess lube, wipe down the entire, revolver and use compressed air to clean out and dry the firing pin channel.

Hammer pivot pin lubrication

Ruger recommends that you lube the hammer pivot pin every 1,000 rounds of live fire or dry firing.

  1. After you are sure the revolver is unloaded, remove the grip with a 1/8” or smaller punch and a small hammer.
  2. Open the cylinder then tap the pin out just a bit .10” (taking care not to push it out too far).
  3. Put one drop of lube in the pin hole and then flip it over and put one drop of lube on the pin itself. To help spread out the lubricant, twist the pin back and forth.
  4. After you have pushed the pin back in, Ruger recommends that you dry fire the revolver 5-10 times to work the lubrication into the action. Use snap caps for dry firing.

Crane pivot screw and fire control housing retaining screw torque check

Ruger recommends this be preformed every 1000 trigger pulls dry fire or live fire.

  1. To keep the screws from losing there torque setting I would recommend using lock-tight.
  2. For this procedure you will need a torque wrench that reads inch lbs. and a T10 Torx bit.
  3. The fire control housing screw torque settings are 6-9 inch lbs.
  4. The crane pivot screw torque settings are 23-27 inch lbs.
  5. After everything is properly torqued. Re-install the grip.

5 Deep Cleaning Q&A for the Ruger LCR

1. What is Deep Cleaning?

Deep cleaning is the total disassembly, and thorough cleaning of a firearm. If your firearm is used heavily, a more through disassembly and cleaning should be performed. This will extend the life of the weapon, and also ensure that it fires correctly each time you use it.

2. What are the signs that a gun needs deep cleaning?

  1. Trigger has trouble operating the cylinder.
  2. Trouble opening the cylinder.
  3. Misfires when trigger is pulled.

3. How often should you do it?

  1. After shooting about 500 rounds of cheap dirty ammunition.
  2. Have not fired the revolver in more than a year.
  3. The revolver has fallen in either salt water, or dirty fresh water.

4. Is this a good time to have your firearm inspected?

Yes! It is always a good time to inspect the Ruger LCR when they are totally disassembled as you can see the parts easily and examine them.

5. What are the costs to have your firearm deep cleaned and inspected?

Prices will vary depending on where you live and the fees set by each gunsmith. They can range anywhere from $50.00 and up plus the cost of the replacement parts and their hand fitting if necessary.

If you send your Ruger LCR to Ruger for deep cleaning and inspection, the cost may be more than having a local gunsmith do the work. As per the Ruger website, The average cost would be:

  1. $85 for reconditioning – Replacement of worn internal parts (does not include main components).
  2. $80 Labor charge.
  3. Cost of parts.
  4. $30 Return mail fee.

How to Do a Deep Cleaning on a Ruger LCR

Always take the time to read the manual that came with your revolver, and seek help from a gunsmith if you aren’t sure how to proceed.

Before you begin to do a deep cleaning and weapon inspection, be sure that you have all cleaning supplies and tools with you in the cleaning area.

  1. Make sure that the revolver is unloaded.
  2. Remove the grip screw and the grip.
  3. Use an air line or canned air to spray out the fire control housing and the trigger area to ensure that all dust and other debris are removed.
  4. Use a toothbrush or small gun cleaning brush soaked in solvent to scrub the forcing cone area to remove all build up. Take the time now to inspect the forcing cone area for any cracks or chips.
  5. Scrub the area under the ejector and firing pin area to remove all debris and build up. Now take the time to inspect the frame, ejector star, firing pin area, and the cylinder stop for wear and tear or broken parts.
  6. Perform a basic bore and cylinder cleaning by soaking the bore brush in solvent and scrubbing the bore and all five chambers.
  7. Run cleaning patches through them until they are clean.
  8. Wipe down the entire revolver to ensure it is clean and dry.

Ruger LCR Upper Frame Disassembly

  1. There are two screws that hold the assembly together. The first one out is on the trigger shroud top left side (beware the hex nut will fall out of the right side). The other screw is at the front of the revolver.
  2. Hold revolver in right hand to keep it together.
  3. Release and open cylinder.
  4. Remove front screw.
  5. Cylinder will come right out.
  6. Remove cylinder locking pin. Upper frame needs to be raised upward. Use paper clip to push pin out. Upper assembly will come apart. Cylinder latch will come up with it.
  7. Upper assembly will move forward and then you can lift it up and out.
  8. Latching assembly will be separated from the upper assembly. Do not loose the latching assembly spring! It is a very small and thin spring.
  9. Clean and inspect lower assembly for worn or damaged parts. The best way to clean the lower frame is to use a cleaning brush followed by using compressed air. This will remove any dirt or grime that found its way into this area.

Video first seen on Zolen Boogaerts.

Reassembling the Revolver

  1. Put cylinder latching assembly back in with spring facing forward. It will drop right in and catches in place. Warning! Do not lose the small spring!
  2. Re-install the cylinder latch pin.
  3. Put the top section back in the frame with the rear section corners pointing down. Then push backwards to let it slide back into place.
  4. Now hold the revolver in your right hand with the thumb and first finger at the back and the right hand middle finger pushing backwards on the trigger guard.
  5. With your left hand, put the top screw back in place to hold the upper assembly in place.
  6. Put the cylinder in place in the up position.
  7. Install front screw.
  8. Install hex nut in recess for the top screw and screw into place.
  9. Function test revolver by opening and closing the cylinder and pulling the trigger.

If you do not know how to clean your guns, you will be at a serious and expensive disadvantage now, and have many more problems in a social collapse scenario. Take your time now and learn how to clean your Ruger LCR, and practice your skills so you would be a better shooter.

A gun in perfect condition for shooting is one of the layers of your survival defense. Click the banner to find out how to build the rest!

This article has been written by Fred Tyrell for Survivopedia.



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Thursday, July 20, 2017

Just what is Backfeeding?

Written by Wild Bill on The Prepper Journal.

Earthquake, Southern California, sitting in my kitchen at 5:25 am I felt the roll, heard the house creek and crack and through my dining room window saw the transformer a few blocks away blow. Spectacular. It was over quickly, family was fine, house had no damage on a first look, and no electricity, or natural gas as I had a seismic shut off valve on the gas line. This wasn’t my first rodeo. “Coffee!” I needed coffee so I went to the garage, got my portable camping stove, part of my survival gear, heated some water on it on the dining room table, pulled out the French Press…coffee!

Spouse got up about 20 minutes later, slid into a chair next to me and poured herself a cup and asked “why do we have a camping stove, we don’t camp”, we were newly married. I said nothing, just looked at her as her brain cells began to come on-line and a moment later I got a wry smile and an “oh.” From humble beginnings and knowing where I lived I started this journey and I became a believer in portable things. Especially portable generators as we slide down the food chain quickly without electricity.

No family home should be without one just as no home should be without a comprehensive first aid kit. Additionally, and equally, no one should have either unless they truly understand what each can do to both aide people and harm them.

While we could do a not-so-short course in electricity, circuits, breakers, grounds and phases herein, that information is on-line from reliable sources and I suggest a few hours of going through it would be time well spent for every building owner (home, office, plant, factory, etc.) You won’t pass any certification classes but you will be able to ask much smarter questions.

If you are thinking of installing a home generator as a backup system what I want to address herein is the dangers of not doing it right, specifically “backfeeding”. If you are just running some power strips off a well-ventilated fuel-powered portable generator things will work if you have enough extension cords to reach vital assets and you should pose no threat to yourself or others. Do be aware that in a SHTF situation the generator noise will expose your location. Prudent use and investing in some power storage systems will somewhat alleviate this exposure. There is a whole other post on these on this site and we will do an in-depth review of portable generators in the very near future.

However, if you are considering installing a stationary generator, what people do who plan to hunker down, to a home circuit panel you need to do it right or better yet, have it done professionally. Leaving every breaker on energizes the entire panel and power is distributed throughout the house, on all circuits. Only the largest portable generators (the word “portable” here being a euphemism) can supply enough power for an entire home, and the cost can be in the thousands of dollars. Do you need the A/C on (I ask this while living in Phoenix, writing this in the summer)? The pool pump? The washer and dryer, garage door openers, every flat-screen TV and game system? Does every room need power? You know the answer. Yes, for food storage, some outlets to charge batteries, cell-phones and electronics that link to the outside world, and any critical care medical equipment.  The rest is just fluff.

If your solution is to introduce a back-up generator through your homes electrical system, you will need to invest in a manual transfer switch which takes power from the generator and distributes it only to the branch circuits that were selected when the switch was installed. Each circuit has its own breaker, and electrical power is automatically confined to the dwelling. Paying a licensed electrician to do this is the only approach. This prevents “backfeeding” – accidentally powering the neighborhood utility lines coming into you home and endangering any utility workers, neighbors, etc. When you apply power to a circuit (your home electric panel) electricity flows to the path of least resistance, which, with no power coming from the utility lines, means they are a path of “least resistance” as they have no load on them, such as your refrigerator does on its circuit, so electric current flows from your house, back out to the power lines. In this “off and then ‘instant on’ with no warning” scenario the chances to injury or kill a utility worker are great, and you are liable (National Electric Codes 408, 702 and 225 provide strict guidance on the requirements of such generators.) Now multiple this across every home in an electrical grid and you will know why we should respect these guys (and girls.)

While one can argue that simply turning off some breakers helps to resolve this issue, it does so without balancing the loads across the circuits, and who wants to go out and pick and chooses those in real time?  Who knows how the circuits are set up in their breaker box in the first place? Preppers are planners and having this “locked down” is just good common sense. Identify the “must haves” and get a professional to hook up the system correctly. Ask way too many questions, write everything down and store the data with your survival kit. You will forget after time. Now, knowing this, would you ever touch a downed power line?

The post Just what is Backfeeding? appeared first on The Prepper Journal.



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California Wildfires: Lessons To Learn For Survival

Midsummer heat is here, along with the dry weather it creates. For those living in the mountains or near forested areas, this is the time of wildfires, and California is receiving their fair share this year.

As of this writing, forest fires in California are forcing thousands to evacuate. Nevada is chocking from smoke, while large fires are currently reported in 12 states, on the Western coast of US.

A striking disaster is an opportunity to learn lessons for survival. Keep reading to see what the lessons from the California fires are!

Most forest fires are caused by humans. People being careless with their campfires or tossing out a cigarette butt, without making sure the coal is put out. But some are caused by lightning, a danger that increase during and following times of drought.

After three years of drought, Southern California is especially susceptible.

Is depopulation the secret aim behind Southern drought?

Forest fires destroy thousands of acres of pristine forest throughout the western part of the country every year, causing people to be evacuated and their homes to be destroyed.

While firefighters work hard to put them out, stopping a forest fire is much harder than fighting a house fire. The massive amount of vegetation in the forest, which the fire can use as fuel, means that fires can spread easily and even bypass areas that firefighters thought were under control.

This year’s fires in California have caused thousands of people to evacuate, and some of whom will never see their homes again. The lucky ones will be able to return home after the fire is over, but others may lose everything they’ve worked for.

The fire is indiscriminate in choosing its victims, burning anything in its path.

Preventing Forest Fires

As Smoky the Bear was famous for saying, “Only you can prevent forest fires.” While fire is an amazingly useful tool, it is also a dangerous one, which is hard to control. Fire doesn’t obey mankind, it does what it wants, and what it wants is to consume fuel. So whenever we use fire, we have to be aware of the dangers and how to prevent them.

More than anything, this means only using fire where it is safe. Lighting a campfire in a fire pit made of steel or stone is fairly secure, especially if that fire pit is in a campground which is used by thousands of people. Any vegetation close to the fire pit would have already been trampled into the ground, leaving the fire with nothing readily at hand, other than the fuel you feed it.

But that’s not to say that a fire in a fire pit can’t escape and turn into a forest fire; it can. That’s especially true if someone builds a massive bonfire, rather than a reasonable campfire. The bigger the fire is, the more chance there is of it getting out of hand. If it gets windy, sparks from that fire can be blown over 100 feet, landing far beyond the campsite and possibly right on some dry grass.

Great care must be taken with any fire, not just campfires. The number one cause of home fires is cigarettes. Those same cigarettes, dropped on the ground in the wrong place, can soon grow into a blaze, consuming everything is in its path.

People who live in the woods need to take extra care, as they not only have more opportunity to start forest fires, but are more likely to suffer from the fire itself.

Clearing land around their home may not make for the most attractive setting, but it could protect their home from being consumed, if a forest fire ever encountered it. But it needs to be a wide clearing, especially on the upwind side, as that is the fire that the wind will try to blow the fire across.

Awareness and Preparation are the Key

Being constantly aware of the fire you have lit is important to protecting our forests. But that’s not the only fire you should keep aware of.

Forest fires can be started by anyone, and the more notice you have of one coming, the greater your chances of survival are. If you can smell or hear the fire, it’s already too late; you’ve got to move. But if you receive the news early, you have a better chance of not only leaving, but taking necessities with you.

But there’s a better fire alarm than your own senses; that’s the animal life around you. Animals will notice a fire long before you do and will instinctively run from it. So if you see a variety of different animals fleeing in one direction, there’s a good chance that there’s a fire coming up behind them.

A forest fire is nothing to fool around with. That’s why you must have your bug out bags packed and your car ready for travel at all times. While most of us believe in bugging in whenever you can, this is one scenario where bugging in is just too risky.

Unless your home is built with hundreds of feet of rock all around it, you should evacuate as soon as possible.

Match Your Movement to the Fire

One of the most important pieces of information, for any forest fire, is the wind’s speed and direction. Fire will spread before the wind, so knowing the wind direction will tell you which way the fire is moving. Wind speed will give you an idea of how fast the fire is moving, as the stronger the wind is, the faster the fire will move.

Knowing the wind’s speed and direction will help you determine which way you should go, in order to get away from the fire. If you can see the fire itself, then you’re too close and want to move directly away from it, if the wind is coming towards you, flee before it.

Fire can move as fast as 10 miles an hour, which means you’re going to be hard pressed to stay in front of it. If the wind is moving away from you, then you have more time.

The best thing to do, if you have the time and distance to do it, is move across the fire. This will get you out of its path. As long as you are moving directly away from it, there’s a chance that it can catch up. But if you are moving across it or at an angle across it, you will eventually reach the edge of the fire and get out of the danger zone.

Hills and canyons affect a fire’s movement as well. The heat from the fire will cause it to move uphill faster than downhill. But moving uphill is slower and harder for you. So if you are caught on the hillside, with the fire below you, you need to get over the crest as fast as you can. In some cases, the fire will reach the crest and stop. But don’t count on that until you see that it actually has stopped.

Canyons and draws should be avoided at all cost, as they can act as a chimney, funneling hot air and smoke uphill towards you. While it might be easier for you to travel up a draw, it will also be easier for the fire to travel up that draw too. So there’s a much greater chance of it catching you.

Always watch out for burning tree limbs above you. At times, the fire will move faster through the treetops, than it does at ground level. So you could be perfectly safe on the ground, while the canopy above you is burning.

But if that’s the case, there’s a chance of a burning branch falling on you. Most firefighters who are killed in forest fires die in this manner.

Of course, travel in a vehicle is faster than traveling on foot, but you may not be able to. There are times when you may need to abandon your vehicle, and go on foot, simply because the way the road goes, you would be driving into the fire.

However, don’t abandon your car, unless you absolutely have to. It provides at least some protection from the fire. Better to take your sedan cross-country, ruining it, than to leave it behind and have both you and it burnt.

Forest fires can kill you one of three ways: heat, smoke or oxygen deprivation. It is doubtful that you will actually be burned to death, because you would die by one of these methods, if not all three, before the flames could reach you.

Finding a place where you can be protected from all three is not easy; but your chances are better the lower you are. So head for the flatlands, rather than the mountain peaks, if you can.

If You Can’t Escape

Hopefully you will never be faced with a situation where you are surrounded by the fire and can’t escape. But fires are largely unpredictable, so things like that can happen. If you find yourself in such a situation, your best course of action, even though it is a risky one, is to find someplace safe, where you can ride out the fire.

Before I go any farther, let me just be clear that there is no guarantee that you can ride out the fire safely. But if you’re going to be caught in it, your best chances are to choose the ground which will offer you the best chance of survival. Give yourself time to do that, as you are fleeing from it.

Obviously, you need someplace that will not burn, if you’re going to wait out the fire.

Keep in mind that sparks from the fire can leap 100 feet, so when you’re looking for a safe place, you want one that is more than 100 feet across. Even if it is only 110 feet, that allows you to be 100 feet away from the approaching fire, by staying close to the other edge of the safe zone.

So, what types of places are potential safe zones?

Water

Your absolutely best place to be, other than in another state, is in the midst of water. As we all know, water quenches fire, so there is no way that the fire can reach you, unless you leave a bridge between you and it. Getting a ways off shore in the water can provide great protection.

But this has its own dangers as well. Water will draw your body heat away faster than being in the air, creating the risk or hypothermia (the lowering of the body’s core temperature). So, if you’re going to be in the water, you need to watch how cold you are getting.

It’s important to remain reasonably close to the shore, preferably in water that is not so deep that you can’t touch the bottom. That way, you can get out easily if you need to.

If all you have is a mountain stream, use it. Find the widest place in the stream and lay down in the water, with only your face exposed. The water will protect you from the flames, even if you are only a few feet from shore.

Rocky Areas

The second best place is a rocky area or paved area. Roads may not provide a wide enough area to really provide excellent protection, but a road with a rocky area beside it might. A forest fire won’t burn the rocks, although if the flames lick the edges, they will scorch them.

Often these areas will still have some plant life growing in them. But that’s better than being surrounded by vegetation. You can easily stomp out a grass fire, if you’re wearing boots or sturdy shoes. But watch out for bushes, because they will burn rapidly.

Moving around the rocky area, as the fire burns around you, can be useful, especially if you can move away from the area that is burning the hottest. There will be more oxygen and less smoke in areas which are away from the main part of the fire. As the fire burns past, moving closer to the burned over area could get you to a cooler area, with more oxygen.

Holes in the Ground

Caves, culverts and other holes in the ground are excellent protection from fires. Since heat rises, fire always tries to go up. If you are below ground level, especially in a sheltered place, the fire could pass over and around you, without touching you. You’re also likely to find more oxygen at that lower elevation, than you would on the ground around the hole.

Short Grass

Any grass can burn, but short grass will have a smaller flame. That might not seem like a safe place, but if it’s all you’ve got, that will be better than being in the middle of the forest or even in the middle of long grass.

Look for a clearing that’s at least 100 feet across. While the grass in the clearing might catch fire, you can avoid that fire or stomp it out. Just make sure that you stay on the downwind side of the clearing, so that fire leaping from the treetops can’t reach you.

A Couple of Risky, Last Resort Techniques

Sometimes, it looks like the fire is going to win. But I’m the type who believes in the “Never say die” philosophy. So as I go through my options, I’ll start with the best ones, and then work my way down to those which aren’t so good. But I’ll always keep trying, as long as I can. I don’t know how to say, “I can’t,” my parents made sure of that.

So, if there’s no safe space available, there are still things that can be done. They aren’t the best of options, but they are still possibilities. Using them will depend a lot on the terrain you have available to you and how fast the wind is blowing.

Creating a Backfire

One of the techniques which firefighters use at time is to create a backfire. This is a smaller, more controllable fire, which they light, to burn off an area and create a fire break.

For this to even be possible, you’d need an area where you could light such a fire and be able to control it, such as a meadow. You’d also need enough time to light your backfire and burn off the area, before the fire could reach you.

The key to an effective backfire is controlling it. You don’t want any part of the fire burning faster than you can put it out. To prevent this from happening, you’ll need to be constantly putting out areas which are getting close to the point of losing control, and restarting new parts. This dangerous, tricky dance, could provide you with that safe zone you need, while the fire rages all around your cleared area.

Walking Through the Fire

While a forest fire may seem like an impenetrable wall of fire, it actually isn’t. The fire never burns evenly, and the terrain works against it, especially in rough terrain. There will often be areas that are far ahead of others, leaving gaps that can be exploited and walked through.

Keep in mind that even though there isn’t visible fire in those gaps, there can still be burning coals. Your passage could kick those up or kick off cover which is preventing them from receiving oxygen.

So walk carefully if you try this, with a keen awareness of everything that is going on around you.

The area you would be crossing into will be the area that the fire has already burned through. As such, it will be mostly charcoal and ashes. There will be hotspots and even the seemingly cool ones will still be too hot to touch.

Nevertheless, it will be safer than the area before the fire. Once past the fire line, you should be able to walk to safety.

Stay alert and watch your surroundings. Put your efforts not only into being ready for the disaster which will strike tomorrow, but be prepared for the low-key disaster which we live with each and every day. Be prepared to face a wildfire and the drought!

This article has been written by Bill White for Survivopedia.



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