How To Build A Shelter/Panic Room Without Being Noticed

In a time of crisis, it will be to your advantage to have a shelter/panic room for personal and family safety. If you try to hide your activities, there is always a chance that you will slip up. The more people become curious about “loose ends”, the more likely it is they will find out what you are doing and store that information away.

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Prepping for the Big Freezes

Written by R. Ann Parris on The Prepper Journal.

There are all kinds of potentials that lead to various mini or full-fledged ice ages … nuclear and volcanic winters, solar grand minimum, Agenda 21, polar shifts, breakdown of the oceanic conveyor, asteroids, or a perfect storm of incidents. Some of them have happened, some not all that long ago, really. Some of them will undoubtedly happen again; it’s just a question of this lifetime, this millennium, or some further distant date.

There’s ebb and flow in just how big, widespread, and bad results could be, and whether “It” results in airborne particles in the atmosphere. There are also shared characteristics, though, that we can prepare for.

Past is Prologue

One of the nice things about modern life is our ability to find information about the past. The internet requires a liberal dose of salt, but it makes researching incredibly easy. Some of the potential Big Freeze disasters have already occurred, and have been studied in great detail.

We know the last mini ice age was kicked off by basically a perfect storm of conditions; it can give us some benchmarks and considerations. Continuing studies into Neanderthal’s world comes with others, like ice age sequestration of water.

The Dust Bowl in the American Midwest and similar conditions in Australia can serve as references, as can volcano after-effects. We can also look at existing harsh climates – Western Asia, the Steppes, the Andes, Horn of Africa, higher-altitude African ranges, and polar regions. They all have helpful nuggets to offer preppers.

Personal Gear

If we expect things to get colder, proper clothing is pretty obvious. Something we might not think about, though, are sunglasses and goggles.

Sunglasses cut the crazy amount of glare snow, ice, and water gives off. Even long ago, arctic peoples were making eye covers with slits to prevent snow blindness. Anybody who was in Iraq for the windstorms can testify to goggles’ usefulness. If you wear prescription glasses, get goggles that can go over them, or the masks that accept inserts.

Balaclavas, “hoo-rags”, and keffiyeh-types are also super handy, but if we’re planning for a Big Freeze, we’ll likely want some actual dust/debris masks, too.

The difference in price between N99 and N95 masks are negligible – pennies to a couple of dollars per mask or per pack of 10-20 – while reducing the stuff that’s getting through to our lungs from 5% to 1%. N-types don’t handle oils. P/R respirators do, but then you are talking about a bump in price. Look at your surroundings and budget, and weigh the potentials.

Ice Age Precipitation

The frigid temperatures of severe cold periods have numerous side effects. For one, surface water will decrease and shift – a little or a lot, temporarily or for a while, varying by disaster.

Snowcaps and glaciers expand, not melting as much as usual due to lower temperatures. Aquifers, lakes, rivers, and inland seas that are normally fed by snowmelt shrink as a result (relatively quickly).

That ice stays out of the evaporative cycles that feed worldwide precipitation. Long-term ice ages create shorelines much further out into what are now bodies of water.

Some of the exposed areas will make for nutrient-rich planting. However, if things stay cool too long, we’ll start seeing negative effects in the floodplains and deltas that require flooding to recharge soils. After a few years, also expect increased salinity in lakes and inland seas, and in oceanic bays. That will affect what survives in those.

We could also see new patterns in the precipitation that does fall.

There’s a set of wind “tubes” that circle the earth (atmospheric circulation cells). They pick up moisture starting at the equator and distribute it outward. There are currently predictable zones that are wetter or dryer as a result (and predictable prevailing winds).

Cold air can’t carry as much moisture (example: mountain rain shadows). Precipitation could start dropping from those cells at new latitudes, changing our patterns – and potentially, long enough, the circulation cells themselves.

Our ability to access, filter/distill, and store water becomes increasingly vital in those conditions.

General drying trends would also affect land cover. Broad-leaf trees require relatively copious precipitation. Dry, cool areas of the world tend to be dominated by grasses and conifers. Those could easily become deserts if they dry further.

If it’s “just” another year without a summer, it won’t hugely affect the precipitation cycle. However, pasture is easily altered by a single-year drought (or flood). Once wrecked, it takes years and-or re-seeding to recover.

Icy Waters

Another threat to consider even for single-year freezes is river ice. Ice dams – river ice lock, ice jams – form when melting river ice gets lodged and masses into a wall. It can cause flooding behind, with catastrophic breakups creating berg-laden tidal waves downstream.

It’s already a regular concern in northern areas. In an ice age, the risk will extend into areas that aren’t accustomed to flooding or to that particular river threat.

Patchy ice on waterways is also dangerous. There aren’t many First Nations families who don’t have a story about losing someone to an icy river – and they’re aware of the risks. If we’ve never been exposed, we may have never given a thought to them not being solid enough for fishing or travel, and we don’t know how to pole if we absolutely have to cross them.

A sudden ice age could also freeze over bays and inlets, denying access and disrupting estuaries. That would affect breeding and migration of numerous fish and bird species – many of which we depend on.

 

Darker Days

Many of the Big Freezes start with something in the atmosphere obscuring sunlight. That adds a number of other obstacles for preppers. See, one of winter’s challenges isn’t just the shorter days and cold. It’s that the quality of light is also reduced.

It’s caused by the angles of the sun and the amount of atmosphere – and atmospheric particles – the light has to get through. A simple mental image is: Fish = Light. Summer is one fish net with six-inch holes. Winter is three fish nets with one-inch holes. Fewer fishies make it downstream in winter, meaning fewer fish even available to be caught and used for energy.

If we get enough ash or dust in the sky to kick off nuclear/volcanic winter, it creates the same diminished light quality. That can happen even without a volcano or asteroid. If things get too dry, obscuring dust starts flying around on ground level, a la Dust Bowl and Egypt’s Fertile Crescent.

So, we’re looking at decreased temperatures, varying losses of fresh water, and seriously decreased light. Then we add in some widespread sand blasting to keep it interesting. Good times.

Ash would be even worse.  Worldwide, volcanic ash has caused some significant problems pretty recently, from a flight nearly going down to re-routing airline traffic.

Another issue is dust/ash obscuring garden hoops, greenhouses, and cold frames. And, for more fun yet, volcanic ash has some interesting “if…then” variables.

See, it starts out with very low pH. If enough rain falls, though, washed-out soils are more manageable or go far enough for volcanic ash to mimic wood ash’s high pH. Volcanic ash can also cause acid rains and impact pH of waterways – affecting what lives there.

Depending on how long ash is aloft, when and how we get precipitation, and what our base soils are, a volcanic winter’s effects on crops (beyond the cold and a coating of tiny abrasive glass/rock) might be negligible, or enormous.

In Hawaii, Honomanu’s volcanic soils range 3.8-4.8 (also, very low in calcium). However, rainier Kula ranges 5.5-6.2 (with plentiful calcium). Remember, most veggies prefer mild acidity (6.0-6.8). Blueberries and potatoes are our low end (4.5-5.0 & 4.5-5.5). Oats, rye, barley and wheat are also low-pH crops (5.5-6.5). Our orchard fruits typically prefer 6.0-7.0. Brassicas/crucifers also prefer near neutral (6.5-7.0; collards & cabbage up to 7.5).

It’s those cole crops that are most tolerant of cool, gray summers and overwintering – so we possibly want to stockpile some amendments and-or row covers.

Worse, many cruciferous/brassica pests are active in cool weather, but their predators don’t show up until the weather warms. So any ice age affects production of the domestic crops most suited to cold. Longer freezes get even uglier due to crop rotation and biennial seeding limitations.

“Eek”, right? Nope. That one’s actually an easy fix.

Instead of relying really heavily on our “normal” crops, if we’re worried about a Big Freeze, we turn to our frenemies: the weeds. Many edible and fodder-capable weeds thrive in wide-ranging, gnarly conditions.

 

We can grow them indoors, under row covers, or in yards and fields. We can pre-seed and nurture, or hold them to plant in an emergency. Remember, those weed seeds are survivors, too – a one-time or once-a-decade purchase.

We can also tap the internet for foreign locations with cold, dry climates and moderate to low pH. They have people foraging and animals grazing, domestic and wild. We can use their natives to augment our stored grains and beans, and produce some livestock feed, too.

We have more than crops to contend with, though. In addition to the lowered amounts and quality of light hitting the earth, the pitting, scratching, and accumulations from ash or dust will also affect prepper’s ever-popular solar panels.

If this is our pick Bad Thing, we may want to look at options like small-scale hydro, gasifiers, or steam engines – especially if those can run off heat we’re already producing, similar to rocket stoves that charge phones/GPS. Trickle-charged battery banks can power tools, air filters, or high-efficiency lights to keep birds and plants in production.

We also want to seriously think about various windbreaks, covers, and draft stoppers to help filter some of the particles before they clog moving parts, windows to machines.

We also might want some Vitamin D supplements. Our ability to absorb calcium comes from Vitamin D. Even if we’re rarely outside, some of our D is coming from good ol’ sunlight … which is filtered and obscured in various ice-age scenarios.

Some Vitamin D isn’t a bad idea for livestock, either. Layers are already pushed pretty hard on calcium absorption in modern and heritage breeds. Dairy animals need it to keep their bones strong, too. Injuries due to low bone density would force us to put down animals.

It will also affect the ability of new dams to give birth without hip and pelvis damage, which could end that animal, too – costing us her, her milk yields, and the newborn animal.

Speaking of critters … when we go searching for foreign plants and weeds, we might also want to check out foreign livestock and wildlife that can be domesticated.

Like alternative crops, those animals will yield less than conventional species, but they’re also already highly adapted to cold, to dry, and to lower-light conditions, and to the food sources available in those conditions. Mongolian and Greenland sheep, ponies and yaks, African and Western Asian goats and cattle, jungle fowl, and ground-dwelling forest and jungle doves are all examples.

Big Freezes

There’s a fair bit to contend with in an ice age, but it’s not insurmountable. Whether an event is “just” frigid, starts due to ash or dust, or “only” leads to a Dust Bowl type situation affects what we’ll have to deal with, and for how long. However, other disasters have similar adversities – drought, flood, water safety/availability, livestock and crop issues, energy, air quality. To some degree, long-term preparations are pretty similar. Preparing for a Big Freeze just has a few extras.

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7 Takeaways From The Austin Bombings And Beyond

Ever since the Unabomber began wreaking havoc, I have always wondered when our nation would be awash in bombings and bomb threats by various criminals and terrorists. Perhaps it is also the apparent simplicity and effectiveness of home made bombs or IEDs that made it so easy for me to see right through gun grabber nonsense about making our world a safer place by removing just one type of tool that can be used for killing.

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Building an Emergency Shelter from a Kit

Written by Guest Contributor on The Prepper Journal.

The majority of Preppers are well equipped in survival skills, including finding food, keeping warm and making temporary shelters, but how many of you are prepared for a total life-long power cut? Would your home stand up to being totally cut off from the grid?

This is where survival retreats come in. Many people choose to have an emergency shelter to prepare for a SHTF scenario, others just want a back-up place to go in case they lose their primary residence, or perhaps some just want to get off the grid and be less visible.

Preparing such a location, is a great way to ensure your safety should you ever need somewhere to escape to. But regardless of that, even if you don’t end up using it as a retreat, it can have many different purposes – to store your personal survival cache, or even just a great place to meet up with family and friends.

Whatever your reason for wanting an emergency shelter –there are so many different options, from shipping container homes, homes made from trailers and old school buses, to log cabins.

Many Preppers already have an off-grid shelter prepared just in case of an emergency, and one of the cheapest and most natural ways to do this is to build a log cabin. To build a cabin from scratch is going to take you months, possibly years. But there is a way to get around that time-frame if you don’t have that much time to dedicate to a build.

You can build an emergency prepper shelter in just a couple of days if you choose to buy a log cabin kit. The main purpose of your log cabin is literally just for shelter and warmth, so you don’t need to build anything fancy. You can get an extremely basic one, which will be perfect to live off-grid in for as little as $20,000.

Building your own cabin can be an extremely rewarding process, and will provide you with your own place to get away from it all, soak up the natural world and practice your survival skills, but this is a serious undertaking and you need to do your research properly. So, how do you know which cabin kit is right for you, and which suppliers to trust with your build?

There are four main steps to buying a survival kit; understanding kits and what you should know before buying, how to choose a supplier, what’s included in your package and the total cost. I’m going to share over 30 years of experience with you to help you get the best deal.

Step One: Understanding Kits

There are so many different kits available, it’s difficult to know which one to choose but really, it’s just a matter of personal preference.

The first choice you’ll need to make is whether you want milled or bespoke logs. Milled logs are those that are all identical and uniform in shape because they have been machine processed. Bespoke logs are hand peeled which preserves all the natural characteristics of the logs. Bespoke log kits are rightly so, more expensive than milled.

Once you’ve chosen the finish type, you’ll need to choose the lumber and profile of the log. The four-main species of trees used for log cabins are pine, cedar, spruce and cypress. The most common is pine because it’s so readily available. Cedar is also very popular but comes at a premium price.

The next step is to choose how the corners of your kit will join. The traditional round logged cabin is joined using a Scandinavian Saddle Notch, other common joins include the dovetail notch, butt and pass, tongue and groove and corner post.

The log profile is how the log is finished; round logs, half-logs, square logs and D-logs. D-logs, with a tongue and groove join are the most popular, because they are so easy to slot together.

You’ll also have the choice between air-dried and kiln dried logs. It’s important that the logs are dried to prevent warping and bowing, kiln dried logs are more expensive due to the energy intensive process they go through. Whichever you choose, the logs should have around a 10% moisture content before building.

Step Two: Choosing a Supplier

With over 300 suppliers to choose from across the US, how can you be sure you’re choosing a reputable and professional company to buy your kit from?

There are a few ways to tell if a company is reputable, and therefore offering quality kits. The first is to look at whether they are a member of the Log and Timber Homes Council, or another association which requires the supplier to meet certain standards.

Once you’ve found out if they’re registered, ask if you can visit the factory where the kits are made and if possible, visit a model home. You’ll get a good feel as to whether the people building your cabin are real craftsmen or just technicians. You can also ask to talk to previous customers to hear their experiences and reviews.

Additionally, to these standard checks, other things to keep an eye out for are whether the logs and blueprints are graded and stamped. Whilst this is sometimes included in the price of a regular kit, with other companies it can come as an extra, but ensuring plans and logs are stamped and graded gives you assurance that the materials and plans are quality.

You should also ask whether the company offer an installation service, and on-site assistance if you require it. You may have no intention of taking them up on this service, but the very fact that the offer it shows they are confident in the level of quality of the product they are offering.

The last thing to consider is the warranty. Any decent company will offer you a minimum of 10-year warranty.

Step Three: Kit Contents

Kits normally come in three different stages of completion; shell only, dry-in package and turn-key packages. The kit you opt for will most likely depend on how much you want to pay, and the completion of package you want.

A shell only package, also known as the log wall system, comes with all the logs and beams that you’ll need to construct the basic shell of a cabin. You’ll have to source the windows, doors, possibly the roof and all exterior and interior finishes.

The dry-in package usually provides you with all the materials you need to create an air-tight log cabin, including all the logs, windows, doors, floors and roof, as well as all the exterior finishes.

A turn-key package will provide you with everything you need to complete you cabin, including interior finishes. This option provides you with everything you need for the cabin to be ready to use straight away.

Depending on which kit you opt for, you’ll receive some of, or all the components you need to build a log cabin shelter.

Step Four: Total Cost

The most important cost you need to look at is the turn-key cost. This is the complete cost of the cabin including the logs, roof, floor, windows doors, interior fittings and labor cost.

The shell package will cost you in between $50-80 per square foot, the dry-in package around $70-$130 per square foot, and a turn-key package in between $130-$180 per square foot.

You should compare like-for-like packages in cost, there is no use comparing a shell price from one company to a turn-key price with another. Figure out what the additional costs will be for the shell package before making a comparison.

One thing to keep in mind with any package is this will not be the total cost of your survival cabin. The golden ratio to use is 1:2. So if the kit costs $20,000, you can expect your final cost to be closer to $40,000 if you intend to carry out all the work yourself. If you employ someone to build the cabin for you, use a 1:3 ratio.

Is a Log Cabin Kit Right for Your Emergency Shelter?

Having an emergency shelter is a wise idea, if the day comes that for some reason your main place of residence is no longer a viable place to be.

In the mean-time, it doesn’t have to go to waste – it can have multiple uses such as somewhere just to go a hangout on the weekends with friends, or a place to store all your survival supplies.

A kit might work well for you if you really want an emergency shelter, but don’t have months or years to spend building a log cabin. All the difficult work is taken out of the build, and it is delivered straight to you ready to assemble. The assembly of a kit can be done in just two or three days with a handful of people.

 

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Do You Really Need A .22 Caliber Handgun?

By The Graduate Shootist

We say “it depends”. Preppers seeking one do-all firearm would probably be better off with something shoulder-fired like a 12 Gauge shotgun. Heck, a 26 or 28” pump-gun with a spare rifle-sighted slug barrel could handle anything that roams North America, including all two or four legged threats. But of course, two-handed activities and/or the need for concealability call for something a whole lot smaller like a handgun. In the interest of economy, we might purchase only one, in which case, for maximum practicality, it really should be a centerfire; either a...

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Tips For Choosing An Emergency Radio

Written by Guest Contributor on The Prepper Journal.

Editors Note: A guest submission from Cormac to The Prepper Journal. The next Prepper Writing Contest Award is coming! As always, if you have information for Preppers that you would like to share and possibly receive a $25 cash award as well as being entered into the Prepper Writing Contest AND have a chance to win one of three Amazon Gift Cards  with the top prize being a $300 card to purchase your own prepping supplies, then enter today!

If you are fortunate, you won’t ever have to depend on an emergency radio.  However, they are an essential item that you should have in your emergency kit.  Emergency radios are not all the same, and purchasing one that is reliable isn’t as simple as just grabbing one from off the shelf.  The following are some of the features you should look for when buying a radio for your emergency kit.

We at The Prepper Journal have already provided you with a comprehensive guide on what you should do before, during and also after a disaster strikes, and showed you an excellent short-term disaster kit along with some ideas for creating a long-term survival kit in the event that help does not arrive for a while.  An emergency radio is one of the essential items for your emergency kit.  It will enable you to get disaster and weather from the NOAA (National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration), so you can be alert and prepared for whatever is occurring in your local area, from chemical spills to Amber Alerts, to tornadoes, fires and more.

In addition, although an emergency radio’s main purpose is keeping you informed and in contact with authorities during a disaster situation, the best emergency radios not only do do this and also do much more.  A quality model can help light your way during the night, keep all of your devices charged, and keep you connected with some entertainment and the rest of the world while you are waiting for help to arrive and roughing it.

How To Select An Emergency Radio That Is Reliable

Emergency radios are available in all shapes and sizes, and if you  fail to look at them closely enough you may think of them as a commodity – that all you need to do is grab one and you will be prepared for emergencies.  However, before you do this, there are several things that you should consider first:

Stick with the Basics: A majority of people need to have a radio that delivers NOAA alerts as well as other warnings, so before spending lots of money on a shortwave or two-way radio, think about whether or not you are going to need the other bands.  If you are planning on communicating with other people, then you might want to have one. However, if your emergency radio’s primary purpose will be as a power-hungry connection with the outside world during an emergency, think about getting a standalone AM/FM receiver.  It is important to have AM:  NOAA alerts get send by way of AM radio, and although you might be able to turn into FM stations with your radio, if it is a severe disaster you might not be able to, and the AM radio’s longer range will be needed in order to receive important information.

Look for logos that say “NOAA NWR All Hazards” and/or “Public Alert“: They are competing standards, but both of them were developed along with the National Weather Service and NOAA.  In particular, the Public Alert notes that specific technical standards have been met by the radio, including being able to receive area-specific alerts, plug into external devices such as vibration devices for individuals who are visually impaired and lights for hearing impaired individuals, as well as the ability to hear a tone before the alert comes through.  Make sure that the radio that you buy is branded with both or at least one of these stickers.

  

Look for Radios offering SAME (Specific Alert Message Encoding): SAME is a type of technology that allows you to specify certain areas for emergency warnings.  That way you will receive notifications whenever there are any disaster warnings for the specific region, county or city, instead of just state or multi-state areas.

Purchase a Radio that can be operated from Multiple Power Sources: Of course, it is a must to have a battery operated radio so make sure that you store extra batteries inside of your disaster kit.  You should also consider getting a radio that accepts power as well from an external source, such as an AC adapter for times when you have power and also comes with a manual charger such as a hand-crank for when you don’t have power.  Most come with built-in solar panels as well. Emergency radios tend to not use a lot of power, but when you start adding more features, the power draw will be increased. If there are any extra add-ons you would like to have, then you need to ensure you will be able to keep it going so that it can fulfill its main duty: keep you aware of any relevant alerts.  The most important thing is to make sure that you can charge the model by a hand-crank.

  

Select Optional Features: Decide which additional features you want your emergency radio to have.  Some of the best come with on-board battery packs and can charge your other devices such as your tablets and phones.  That might seem like it is overkill for an emergency – until your child needs to calm down and get a grip as their device charges so that you can again think clearly about what is occurring.  I recommend a flashlight feature and some of the other features that are available include multiple programmable locations and stations, solar panels for additional charging, and rugged exteriors that can survive falls and drops.  Some come with built-in speakers while others are portable and only can be used with earphones, which reduces their power consumption needs.  Think about what your individual needs are and choose the additional features that you need as part of your disaster kit.

Keep in mind that not everybody needs to have a super-rugged disaster radio that can survive falling off of a mountaintop if your main need is getting emergency broadcasts from your home’s storm cellar during a tornado.  Power-efficiency, a large battery, and a flashlight are much more important.  A waterproof model should be a priority especially if you happen to live in a floodplain. All things used outside eventually get wet.

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