5 Ways To Turn Everyday Items Into Multipurpose Remedies

Regardless of the disaster type, you will always find yourself looking for simple solutions. During these times, you may be inclined to look around the house for things you already have that can be used to remedy the situation.

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Don’t Overlook Coffee as a Staple in your Prepper Supply

Written by Guest Contributor on The Prepper Journal.

While we may not all be daily or regular coffee drinkers, not addicted to a daily “Starbuck’s” fix, coffee in its whole bean and ground forms has a place in prepping supplies.

With the introduction of “energy drinks” coffee has real competition for that morning “wake up” call, especially among the coming-of-age generations.

However there is an additional downside to energy drinks, when you also consider the salt, sugar, and other ingredients they introduce into your system. And while coffee may indeed be the same dose of caffeine ounce for ounce, depending on the brew, coffee does have some other valuable uses for preppers.

Most prepper neglect this valuable commodity by investing insufficient time and resources to stockpile coffee.  In fact, preppers should give coffee a deeper look as a high priority item in their stores.

Being a prepper means that we are willing to take responsibility for our own safety and security. After all, we do know that it is still beneficial to prep even if disaster never comes. Some pros would include helping you to save a bit on grocery shopping as you get good at spotting deals and you can save on your utility bills when you install self-sufficient off-grid  options like solar, backup generators, rainwater collection systems, gardens and even small flocks of livestock like chickens or rabbits.

Coffee as Barter

And there are whole economies based on coffee production – coffee is the second-most traded commodity in the whole world, second only to crude oil. Cultivated in over 70 countries by thousands of independent farmers, coffee is one of the oldest commodities in the world. Coffee Futures are traded on The New York Mercantile Exchange (NYMEX), which is part of the Chicago Mercantile Exchange (CME), and the Intercontinental Exchange (ICE) offer the Coffee C futures contract, which is the world benchmark for Arabica coffee.

The hype towards coffee has developed to even include World Coffee Conferences and the International Coffee Organization to promote this industry. No doubt, coffee would be in high demand even when SHTF.

Coffee as a Source of Energy

Drinking coffee, only one of it’s uses for us all, should not be due to a caffeine addiction, but should be taken wisely where it is adequate for us to obtain some much-needed energy to overcome our everyday hardships. We just need some basic form of coffee to get by the day. There is a reason coffee is served to rescue crews during disaster recover work, the same reason we seek it out to start a day or get some energy when we need an extra jolt.

Scientifically, coffee would be able to increase your brain receptor activity to around 65%, keeping you alert and help you adapt to precarious situations. Hence, it would help you to keep your thinking clear, helping you make the best decision in most situations. When you are caught in a situation of life or death, keeping your mind clear would aid tremendously.

Keeping you and your loved ones morale at a moderate level would be made easier if you have stockpiled sufficient coffee. Endurance would be necessary, and having the energy to face your daily challenges would help you endure what you need to face.

Coffee – Make Filtered Water More Palatable

After a disaster strikes, clean water is usually a scarce resource. It cannot be stressed enough that your emergency water supply would be essential for your survival and finding ways to store, obtain and make ‘consumable’ water would be of utmost important.

Although pure caffeine may dehydrate you, you can add coffee to water to help with this. Filtered or chemically treated water may not have the best taste, but your coffee can help you make taking that water more palatable. Especially in long-term emergency situations, the water quality which you have may deteriorate making it even harder to consume. Coffee may just be the trick.

This applies to purified water. Although it may not have a pleasant taste, you can utilize coffee for your advantage. Staying hydrated and healthy would be a vital factor for your survival and to help you keep going.

Coffee – Keeping Yourself Healthy

During an emergency situation, your health would be in a vulnerable position. Since coffee is rich with antioxidants, it would bring great benefit to your health by reducing the rate of oxidation in your body. The process of oxidation is a chemical reaction that damages your body cells.

Also, it is scientifically proven that coffee would be great to help prevent diseases such as heart failure, Type 2 Diabetes, Stroke and Parkinson’s disease. This would not only be important in a SHTF situation, but also your everyday life!

Furthermore, it reduces the probability of you contracting Cholera, a bacterial disease, and Dysentery, which causes intestinal inflammation. Both these diseases are caused by taking contaminated water, which is something you must take note of especially when clean water is scarce. By taking in brewed coffee, you are adding a layer of processing (boiling water) to the reduction of these bacteria. Yes, boiling water to help purify it is not specific to coffee, but the routine of the processing to make coffee adds this step without having to think about it. You would be surprised at how easy it is to forget vital steps in any water purification procedure when you are dying of thirst and under added stress.

Coffee – Save on Food

Coffees are natural appetite suppressants, making you feel full although you have not eaten. Especially during long-term emergencies and your supplies are depleting, coffee could help you to get by sufficiently. Furthermore, being energy-packed, it would be able to supply you with the energy you need.

Coffee Grounds – More than Garden Nutrients

Coffee grounds would also help enrich your soil, letting you enjoy a greater yield of fruits and vegetables. If you are committed to being self-reliant, you will need to consider having your own garden and coffee may be just the thing to keep your soil constantly fertile. In fact there are many uses for used coffee grounds. While not all something one would need in TEOTWAWKI, some are kind of interesting for a preppers DIY nature.

Conclusion

If you are convinced that you should stockpile coffee, again as barter, a food supplement, a homeopathic medical treatment, or an energy boost, the next step to take would be investing time to learn and implement ways you can effectively stockpile coffee. Do remember, that coffee would only be capable of staying fresh in the whole bean form. Once it is ground the natural oils are released and its shelf life is greatly reduced.

There are many ways that are considered to be ‘proper’ for keeping coffee, but it varies in effectiveness of course. You can choose to buy vacuum sealed coffee beans straight from the shelf, keep those in an airtight container and store them in a dark, dry place.

If you have any other ideas you would like to share, please share with me by commenting below!

Author Bio: I am Florence Mandel, a blogger, a coffee lover and a survivalist enthusiast. You can follow me over at Coffee Standards.

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6 Ways To Catch A Fish When Your Life Depends On It

When it comes to surviving, the potential resides in almost everything around us. You only need a creative mind and a passion for getting what you want using things around you.

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Is it Smart To Carry a Smart Phone?

Written by Guest Contributor on The Prepper Journal.

Editors Note: Another article from valknut79 to The Prepper Journal. As always, if you have information for Preppers that you would like to share and be entered into the Prepper Writing Contest with a chance to win one of three Amazon Gift Cards with the top prize being a $300 card to purchase your own prepping supplies!

I carry an Android Smart Phone, and I love it. It is my daily access to entertainment, with my podcasts, my music, and even an occasionally movie while I’m riding the exercise bike at the gym. It’s my social outlet, where I can text my friends, make sure my wife doesn’t need me to pick something up after work, and what I used to use before I cancelled my Facebook account to keep up with the family. It’s also access to the whole world of knowledge thanks to the internet and apps. If I need to learn how to do something, I have that access at my fingertips.

It’s also one of the most dangerous things that I carry.

My smart phone knows who I am. When I set up my Android, it asked me for my email address, which I readily gave for the privledge of using this life-changing device. My email is linked to my name, my address, and now my phone number, all under the control of a company who used to have as part of it’s mission statement “Don’t be evil.” My smart phone knows where I live, because I have a real estate app on my phone so I can track what’s going on in my neighborhood. My phone knows where I go, because even if I turn off my location services, I’m not vigilant enough to turn on and off my wifi access, so by virtue of the phone looking for wifi access points, it can calculate my location by knowing where those wifi spots are located. Since smart phones are so smart, yet so fragile, my contacts and preferences are stored on the cloud in case I break my phone, so it’s possible to figure out who I talk to and communicate with as well. While Apple has taken the controversial stance to block government access to their services I don’t feel like counting on a company’s current opinions on data security to remain consistent.

Perhaps most sinister, however, is that my phone is now my crutch, and phones everywhere are the crutches of people around the world. I find it difficult to drive to work without having access to my podcasts and audio books, and I don’t even have a long drive. Exercise is difficult without the entertainment as well. If you have a map app on your phone, you no longer need to remember where things are located in relation to each other, and you don’t need to really know where you are or pay attention because your phone can get you anywhere. My teenage daughter needed to jump her car battery a week ago, and instead of remembering (as I taught her) how to connect the jumper cables, she looked it up on YouTube because she felt she didn’t need to remember or know this basic skill. When I babysat my nieces and nephews, I took away their phones and they literally could not entertain themselves for more than an hour in a room full of toys. Psychiatrists have done studies that link the amount of screen time in young people’s lives to the early onset of schizophrenia and anxiety.

Breaking the Habit

Try as you might, I think it is probably impossible to get rid of a smart phone for many people. For instance, my employer expects me to have access to my email at all hours of the day from wherever I am located (and that’s ridiculous, but that’s modern life for you). It’s possible, however, to defer usage of it for short periods of time. I bought a prepaid flip phone from my local big box store, and I use a call forwarding service to forward calls and texts to that for a 24 hour period, starting on Saturday night until Sunday evening. This allows me to leave the smart phone at home and forces me to carry a phone that does almost nothing. No podcasts, no apps, no music. It’s not fun, but I feel like it’s a necessary thing for me so that I can maintain my sanity. Even though I can feel the difference in weight, and even though I know it’s just a flip phone, I find myself reaching for it more often than I’m comfortable with still.

This flip phone may end up being an important prepping supply as well. As I referenced earlier, even with location services turned off, it’s possible to use data access points to find you. A flip phone that has no wifi or location functions cannot be used to track you, if you pay cash for the phone and are careful about it’s use. If you ever need to disappear, changing your phone number is going to be one of the first things that you want to do. As these phones with their antiquated technology become less and less common in big box retailers, it may be a good idea to purchase one to save for a rainy day. If nothing else, you can use any phone, even ones whose service is no longer active, to call 911 in an emergency.

Data Security

Data security is an easier thing to control. It starts with information you give to other companies, from your name and aliases to your social media. Your phone is just like your computer, it’s just easier to hack, so many of these tips will work for both your PC and your phone.

First, it may be smart to establish a new email address. Switching is difficult, but the privacy issues you encounter could be worthwhile. Consider using a service like hushmail (hushmail.com) which does not track IP location data when you sign in and send messages. Use a different alias than you normally do. Even if you decide that hushmail is too difficult and inconvenient, then perhaps it’s best to sign up at another site using a false identity, using a false IP address (look at Tor or another secured browser). Keep in mind that, especially if you are a gmail user, your entire life is open to Google if you make use of their entire suite of tools – your documents are on their cloud, your phone number and email information is key to their services, and the basic calendar on your phone is linked to your account as well.

Second, remove your credit card information from all of the websites you purchase from. Yes, they may be secured for now, but are going to be hacked one day or another, and you don’t want your information to be among the data they steal. Your credit card information is among the most damning information that someone can get from you, so you want to make it as difficult as possible. Yes, you’ll have to enter your credit card information every time you order a new pocket knife from Amazon, but the data security and privacy is worth it. For subscription services, where they store your credit card information month after month to charge you, then consider buying a prepaid gift card and reloading the balance prior to them charging you. This requires some maintenance, but makes it easy to cancel any membership and difficult for criminals to access your information.

Finally, delete or obfuscate your information from social media websites. Recent Facebook controversies should be enough to encourage you to do this, and if you haven’t done this yet, you’re behind the curve. Note that just because it’s Facebook that’s in trouble, that doesn’t mean that LinkedIn or Twitter are not the next to sell your information.

If you’re using a browser, you may want to look into a browser that changes your IP address, like TOR, or use a VPN to create a secured data tunnel which hackers will find more difficult to spy on what you’re doing. When you’re using your phone, it is important not to log into public wifi access points because it’s possible for hackers to spy on your data from these points. It is far beyond the scope of this article to explain these thoroughly, but suffice it to say that it’s not too difficult for hackers to spy on traffic from unsecured networks.

Data security professionals would be able to give you hundreds of other data security tips, but for the amateur user, this is at least a good start.

Fight Complacency

Finally, the greatest danger of phones is that they cause you to become complacent. You don’t need to know (slightly) advanced math because your phone has a tip calculator, or a percentage calculator for sales. You don’t need to know basic math because your phone has a regular calculator as well. You don’t need to know basic navigational skills (like knowing which direction is north) if you have the map feature and directions. You don’t need to memorize emergency phone numbers because your contact list has them. Take the time to remember these important skills, put down the phone from time to time, and most importantly, teach your children how to do these basic tasks so that they won’t become reliant on this technology. It is one of humankind’s most important advancements, but it’s also one of the most dangerous.

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Self-Sufficiency Superstars – Pickin’ A Chicken

Written by Guest Contributor on The Prepper Journal.

Editors Note: Another article from R. Ann Parris to The Prepper Journal. Think you know everything there is to know about preppers preferred livestock to raise, maybe, but you will know much more by the end of the week. As always, if you have information for Preppers that you would like to share and be entered into the Prepper Writing Contest with a chance to win one of three Amazon Gift Cards with the top prize being a $300 card to purchase your own prepping supplies!

I should say right now that chickens are at or near the bottom of the list of my favorite self-reliance animals, right there with horses. I just don’t like chickens (they started it). However, as a homestead animal, they’re absolutely indispensable.

(As opposed to horses, which I love but don’t find efficient and thus stick in the “pet” category.)

Chickens’ feed efficiency, are multi-functional, and able to perform labor tasksthat make them fantastic livestock for backyards and big-acreage homesteads. They eat things my preferred game birds can’t and perform functions the non-diggers, non-grazers won’t or can’t.

There are pro’s and con’s to any animals, and birds are no different. As a permaculturist and a prepper with a mind towards long-term sustainability, I have a specific list of considerations when it comes to pickin’ my chickens. Those list items are why a few of the commonly recommended breeds don’t make my “superstar” list.

For example, I like buckeye hens, but the roos are commonly way more space aggressive than I want. Others drop off the list due to production when expected to free-range – 70% of their feed, heat stress, or low tolerance to confinement/penning.

Some breeds are bullies that don’t share mixed barnyards well. Some drop because their feathers are tougher to pull than ducks’.  Some are way too hair-triggered and panicky for me.

Alternately, some are oblivious to threats. Some pile up in a corner of a pen where a raccoon can reach through. Some stand stupidly staring at the sky while the ducks, doves, guineas, and smart chickens are bobbing in “I’m up, they see me, I’m down” sprints for cover or low-crawling under edges toward the dogs or Mr. Mother Goose.

Poultry are very situation-ally dependent, and there are always exceptions. I’ll go into the factors that affect my choices after my pick-chicken short list. Any prepper can use the traits as a checklist, even if my preferences aren’t as important or completely oppose their priorities.

Superstar Breeds

Wellies/Welsummers – 6-7 pounds, foragers but comfortable with confinement, 2-4 eggs/week (green graze to buggy lots, seed-grain lots, or bag feeds), medium eggs, heat & cold hardy, savvy, friendly & curious personalities, medium-average broodiness – A European breed as popular in Australia for ease & production as RIRs, Orps, Plymouth Rocks, and Wyandottes are here (U.S.); keen surrogates for hatching & raising guineafowl, turkey, or quail

Dominique – 6-7 pounds, foragers but comfortable with confinement, 2-4 eggs/week, small-medium eggs mostly, cold and humid-heat hardy, savvy, calm and curious personalities, average broodiness, super mothers – Popular from colonial & pioneer times through the Great Depression due to ease and efficiency in keeping, then almost lost as modern production breeds started taking over; cold-weather layers, seldom over-eaters, self-coop if coop-raised, shrewd stranger-friend-foe discrimination, chill with kids and known dogs but not pecking-order pushovers.

Images: Buff & Speckled Sussex

Sussex –7-9 pounds, foragers but comfortable with confinement, 3-5 eggs/week, medium-large eggs, cold tolerant, okay-decent heat tolerance, savvy roosters*, confident but calm personalities, average broodiness – Very old breed, once the standard English table bird (dethroned by the Cornish); prone to tender flesh & fattiness (fats are a good thing for self-sufficiency & survival), very non-flight prone, incredibly efficient & low-waste eaters, early- and late-season layers with year-round laying possible

*Sussex hens respond to roo, flock, keeper, & LGD warnings, but are typically juuuust a little less “stranger danger” and foot-traffic observant on their own than my other picks.

Sussex hens are surprisingly human-oriented tagalongs (not always a good thing).

*Wellie and Sussex hens are so chill, they’re likely to be low-bird on the totem pole. Introduce them to mixed flocks with a handful of other birds, not as individuals.

Reds, Woman, Reds!

Yeah, I skipped the Rhode Island Reds/RIRs (and the less-common Rhode Island Whites & Blacks) and New Hampshire Reds. They are hugely popular backyard and homestead birds.

However, they’re “excellent” 5/week layers (with extra-large eggs that further tax feed and calcium needs). All roos are rough lovers, but RIRs and NHRs seem excessively so, especially in small-flock situations. I also find Rhode Island’s excessively destructive and messy compared to other breeds.

Both also tend to classify all dogs, cats, and humans in the same categories – either all good or all bad – and aren’t keen at individual recognition. That’s a problem here.

Top Priorities

The first thing I want out of my birds is the ability to reproduce them, which means a purebred (and a rooster I can stand long enough to breed).

I typically trial heritage and dual-purpose breeds. They’re more likely to both lay and “eat” well, and to be forager-willing and predator-savvy than the production breeds and dedicated laying or meat breeds.

They’re also a smidge more likely to have retained the ability to sit their own broods, politely, without me fighting constant broodiness, which lets me skip electric incubators and brooder boxes.

I also want mothers to be able to raise clutches within the flock so I don’t have to segregate, then introduce flock members. Mothering hens need to be canny to chick threats (including foot and equipment/tool traffic), but not over-defensive.

Breed Traits

Flighty v. Docile – Docile birds are less likely to have excellent risk awareness (water, predators, egg care), but flighty birds are commonly pen and tree hoppers, harder to handle, and noisier. The calm-savvy line is a tough one to walk, which is one reason my short list of breeds is actually short.

Images: Buff Sussex

Broody balance – willingness and ability to sit eggs (theirs and other poultry’s), keep a clean nest (relatively) while eating and drinking well, but not constantly fighting to keep hens from hiding, stealing chicks/eggs from other birds, and sitting eggs (and rocks, tennis balls, etc.)

Mothering – able to care for 10-16 chicks – protecting them from predators and the flock, teaching them hunting and foraging, keeping them warm and out of thick, wet grass, but not smothering them or excessively guarding

Rooster behavior – good flock provider, accurate predator savviness, but relatively quiet and easy handling (relatively = “for a roo”)

Rooster weight – All but one rooster every 2-6 years is going to hit a pot, so I want a breed that gains relatively well in the 3-9-month harvest-age window, as opposed to being excessively lean teens.

Breast meat – Many dual-purpose & layer breeds birds lack significant breast portions. It’s not a must-have but it is a big check mark for me if pullets & roos develop decent breast meat.

Camouflage – I like breeds with colors that blend into the terrain. (I don’t mind the skin color undulations or darker skins on meat from colorful birds versus the uniform white-pink of most market birds.)

Images: Speckled Sussex flock, Blue-Laced Red Wyandotte hen, & Dominque flock

Barred, laced, and speckled plumage – even the stark white-black zebra-type – camo sometimes surprisingly well in pasture, bare runs, snow, and dappled edges. They do better against predators, especially when they typically cluster elbow-to-elbow to forage, run, and roost.

   

Forage efficiency – I want birds to free-range from pasture, compost, garden-orchard spaces, scrub and woods. We’ve bred both the inclination and ability out of many breeds.

I also want breeds with the least production loss on green-grazing and green-protein forages (versus seed-nut and bug-heavy seasons/areas).

Flight – Pasturing, penning, and evening re-cooping is easier with breeds that are just disinclined to leaving the earth, versus “normal” tree-roosting and flight-happy breeds.

Laying balance – I typically look for breeds listed with mediocre to middling laying rates. (Somebody just fell out of their chair.)

Thing is, egg production is one of the tweaks we’ve made along the way, like our leaner pigs, faster-growing meat animals, and dairy production. It’s based on cheap, easily accessible grain feeds. Even heritage breeds listed as both excellent foragers and layers aren’t reaching their 200-275 eggs/year on just pasture.

Humans are hand-delivering 50-75% of their nutrients.

*Nice article: Modern chicken timeline, 1900-present – https://www.thehappychickencoop.com/a-history-of-chickens/

Without that feeding (and without heating or cooling and 12+ hours of light) most of those “better” breeds rapidly lose productivity, hitting 100-150 egg/year ceilings.

I want birds free-ranging 70+% of their soft-seasons feed. The middling-production breeds typically retain more of their optimum laying (and weight gain) in those conditions, ending up with larger total yields in side-by-side comparisons with a “better” bird.

Two, hens need a lot of calcium to maintain successful laying and bone density. High-yield layers need more, and faster-absorbing sources, and can get less of their total-need percentage from forage and free-choice ground eggshells.

Tons of fragile eggs that crack in the boxes or basket do me less good than a smaller number of hardy eggs, before we even get to layer-breeder losses from deficiency injuries.

Condition & age-production resilience – resistance to production drop in lowering light & low temperatures; reduced slumps in 2nd, 3rd, & 4th-year laying (my goal: average decreases of 8-10% per year v. 12-15%)

Range-space versatility – willingness to wander for forage but also comfortable being penned/barned for 8-16 hours a day, & for days & weeks at a time (bird & produce harvest safety, pasture regrowth, evacuation crates/trailer, weather, theft/predator risks, injury/disease quarantine, flooding, assessments)

Mid-Size – best-fit for my predator load, efficiency desires, & climate (wet winters with ‘teen-20s lows, then 95-100+ with 80-95% humidity come July-August)

Feathering – This is really climate specific, but I prefer clean legs and short, light feathering on thighs, heads and spouts. The smoother they are, the less dirty they get. (You still have to provide leaves, straw, and mulch to soak up seasonal mud and wastes.)

Rule of Thumb: For cool to frigid climates, you want a rounder medium to heavy breed with tight, dense feathering, fluffy “undercoat”, and small combs (lessens frostbite). Some want feathered legs and feet; some of us feel that just collects snow and cold spring mud, then chills birds. If you have warm to hot climates, you typically want lighter-built birds with naked/clean feet and larger combs (heat transfer).

Images: Gold-laced & Buff Orpingtons, & laced Wyandottes

Pickin’ A Chicken

Many of my checkpoints don’t apply to people with less interest in long-term sustainability and self-reliance, or who only deliver bagged feed to a permanent coop with less movement. Climate, interaction, and individual needs and abilities factor hugely in appointing superstar status.

Marans and Legbars max out at 120-180 eggs/year, but they can near that max on trash-grass and pine/fir woods forage. For some preppers, that might outweigh the low ceiling and other traits. Others might choose high-yield layers or prefer fast-turn meat birds for a variety of reasons.

Images: Barred Plymouth Rocks, Legbars, & Australorps

Bantams or ornamentals that will only reach quail-level meat and egg yields but are smaller or quieter may suit others best.

Varying preferences are how we got all these choices in the first place. Most homesteaders and backyard keepers run multiple breeds (and types of poultry) even when we’ve settled on a primary because of the diversity.

Do your research (multiple-source research), don’t ignore breed and experience-needed warnings, but experiment. It’s easy to trial multiple breeds even with just a handful of starter birds. At most it’ll cost an extra $0.25-$3.00/chick to mix-and-match breeds when ordering them.

*DO pay extra for sexed hens and limit your roo populations if you’re just getting started.

For some general pointers, there are chicken-specific sections in http://www.theprepperjournal.com/2016/11/22/dont-know-can-hurt-us-livestock-edition/ and http://www.theprepperjournal.com/2017/01/24/planned-parenthood-for-preppers/.

You might also want to check out https://www.thehappychickencoop.com/keeping-backyard-chickens-what-i-wish-id-known/ and your local-area chicken-keeper forums.

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The post Self-Sufficiency Superstars – Pickin’ A Chicken appeared first on The Prepper Journal.

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