Saturday, October 7, 2017

What did you do to prep this week?

These cool fall mornings in Tennessee are wrecking havoc on my sinuses, thankfully taking Benadryl before bed and when I get up helps a lot but still more issues than I’d like, but that’s life I guess, just accept it and move on.

However, looking to at the bright side of the season, I love the fall colors that are starting to pop all over the state, if only the colors lasted longer that would really be great but like my sinus issues I’ll just have to accept it and move on.

Okay, I’ve had a lot of pack members who’ve sent emails asking for my take on the Las Vegas...

Read the whole entry... »

from TheSurvivalistBlog.net RSS Feed
Don't forget to visit the store and pick up some gear at The COR Outfitters. Are you ready for any situation?
#SurvivalFirestarter #SurvivalBugOutBackpack #PrepperSurvivalPack #SHTFGear #SHTFBag

Five Alternatives Weapons

Written by Guest Contributor on The Prepper Journal.

Editors Note: Another guest contribution from valknut79 to The Prepper Journal. The opinions expressed herein are his. As always, if you have information for Preppers that you would like to share and possibly receive a $25 cash award, as well as being entered into the Prepper Writing Contest AND have a chance to win one of three Amazon Gift Cards with the top prize being a $300 card to purchase your own prepping supplies, then enter today!

Almost all preppers love their guns. It has been my experience, though, that most non-prepper family members do not love guns quite so well perhaps, as some of their counterparts, Let’s face it – without proper education, care, storage and maintenance, guns are absolutely one of the most dangerous things you can bring into your home, especially if you have children.

That said, guns are one of the most useful items you can have. They are an absolute essential piece of home defense, self-defense, and they can be used to hunt game for food as well. Outside of a knife or a cell phone, very few items that you can prepare with have dual purposes that can equal a gun.

If firearms are causing a fight in your family, if you have a legal record, or if you live in an area that disallows firearms, then it’s time to start thinking of an alternative. There are plenty of alternatives out there, and while none of them are quite so effective as a rifle or a pistol, they can work in a pinch.

Bows or Crossbows

The best alternative to a true firearm is surely a bow or a crossbow. The former is quieter, cheaper, faster to reload, easier to maintain, and more versatile, but requires significantly more practice, while the latter is much easier to use, and much more accessible for those with poor arm strength.

If, for whatever reason, you are unwilling or unable to own a gun, then owning a bow is something that should top your list. While either weapon requires practice, it shouldn’t be very long before you are able to at least develop a minimum level of arm strength, aim and tactical knowledge for using these items. Your local park district, nature preserve or school may even offer courses for all age ranges as well as any archery range in your area.

As far as uses go, a bow is quite similar to a firearm. You could conceivably use it for defense, although you’d certainly look a little strange doing so, and bow hunting is a very popular sport among hunting enthusiasts. The major disadvantages to bows are obvious – they are less portable than handguns, and less powerful than any gun, so you need to be accurate in your shooting to cause damage to larger game while hunting. That said, they are significantly quieter than guns, and you can reuse the ammunition quite easily or make new arrows from materials in the forest.

A simple recurve or compound bow set with arrows and a target will run you about $300 for an adequate starter set, and is often enough to get you started without worrying about accessories or professional-level equipment. The cross-bow pictured above will set you back north of $1,400.

Slingshots

There are many slingshot truthers out there who believe strongly in this weapon. In my opinion, while a slingshot is another alternative to guns or bows, it is a far distant third or even fourth-place option among ranged weapons, almost to the point of irrelevance. It is far less powerful, using small metal balls to do damage, but has minimal ability to do damage, a short range, and wide variations in accuracy. It is far cheaper than other options, running less than $50 for most models, including ammunition.

For self-defense purposes, a slingshot is nearly useless, as it won’t stop attackers without a perfectly targeted strike, and it’s not useful for hunting most animals larger than rabbits, but in a pinch, I’d rather have a slingshot than my bare hands.

Bolas

Yes, seriously, bolas are a ancient South American weapon that consist of a par of small weights connected by a length of strong cord. By whipping the bolas at a high speed, then throwing the bolas at a targets’ legs, you can trip them up and immobilize the target for long enough to hopefully approach and strike before they can free themselves. Heavier weights on the ends of the ropes will do some damage as well, but a bolas should be looked at largely as a capture tool first and foremost. Bolas are not a particularly effective weapon for all animals, as it may be difficult to fully ensare a nimble four-legged creature, but for hunting birds or smaller quarry, they can be quite useful. The native people who use this weapon are often able to take down birds in flight, or use these as a surprise capture tool for birds on the ground. This is another weapon whose effectiveness will depend largely on the amount of effort you put into praciticing with the device, but it could be a uesful alternative. Unlike an effective gun, bow or slingshot, a bolas is a weapon you could create with materials you already own, so it’s possible to start practicing with a homemade weapon quite quickly.

Clubs

A club is a good self-defense weapon for close-quarters combat. You could use a baseball bat you purchase at a garage sale, or a tactical option like a telescoping weighted club, and each would be at least somewhat effective for keeping attackers at bay. If you happen to be a larger person, a club also offers a strong intimidation factor, but it is very ineffective if thrown or used as a ranged weapon, where it would have no practicality in a fight. It’s certainly a low-level option. Of course, unless used in combination with a bolas or similar trapping/ensnaring weapon, a club is not a useful hunting weapon.

Knives

I’m a person who believes that you should carry a knife with you at all times, so it does fit with being a EDC device that you could use for self-defense. Knives share many similar features with clubs, as close-quarters self-defense tools that are certainly more effective than hand-to-hand combat.

I included knives specifically because I consistently see advertisements for tactical throwing knives that I think need to be addressed. The idea behind throwing knives as a weapon baffles me. Anyone who has experience using these items knows that they are iffy at best. Hitting a moving target with a knife that is flipping end-over-end and having that knife not only strike, but also damage, is nearly impossible. It’s perhaps the coolest option to show off as a parlor trick, but it cannot be used with any effectiveness outside of sheer blind luck as a hunting or self-defense tool. Don’t be a movie star, get a real weapon, or at the very least, when you’re in a fight, don’t throw your knife at your attacker.

The post Five Alternatives Weapons appeared first on The Prepper Journal.

from The Prepper Journal
Don't forget to visit the store and pick up some gear at The COR Outfitters. How prepared are you for emergencies?
#SurvivalFirestarter #SurvivalBugOutBackpack #PrepperSurvivalPack #SHTFGear #SHTFBag

Friday, October 6, 2017

How to Set a Perimeter at Home and While Traveling Abroad

by Alden Mills

In SEAL Team one of the first tactical procedures you learn as a team is how to set a perimeter. The idea behind a perimeter is simple – it’s 360 degrees of mobile security. Setting a perimeter is not unique to SEAL Team, every special operations and infantry branch that I’m aware of uses a similar tactical mindset to create a perimeter of safety no matter where they are.

In the military, the action “set perimeter” is an order for troops (teammates) to fan out into a circle formation where each person has overlapping fields of view to eliminate a potential surprise...

Read the whole entry... »

Currency of the Middle Class After the SHTF

Written by Guest Contributor on The Prepper Journal.

Editors Note: A guest contribution from Donnovan Okoth to The Prepper Journal. A different twist on a recurring theme. As always, if you have information for Preppers that you would like to share and possibly receive a $25 cash award, as well as being entered into the Prepper Writing Contest AND have a chance to win one of three Amazon Gift Cards with the top prize being a $300 card to purchase your own prepping supplies, then enter today!

“We will be okay Lydia, we don’t really have to hoard up so much food supply, besides we got the gold and silver! What makes you think that we won’t survive for a year when the SHTF,“ Don told his wife…for all my middle-income earning preppers out there, this statement should be the last thing you tell your spouse. Honestly, they will skin you alive once you realize that this idealism of investing in gold and silver as the only form of currency is nothing but a paradox.

Let us be realistic here, yes, investing in gold and silver is a good idea but it should be the last item in which you invest. Why? This is due to the fact that if you decide to invest mostly into this “currency”, the reality is that you will need lots and lots of it, probably a whole pickup truck of gold bullion’s so as to be able to fully take care of your family’s needs when the SHTF.

From the research and tests I have done, I have been able to come up with these everyday items that I know will be of more value than your gold or silver during the SHTF; I shall summarize their functional content generally at the end of this article.

Firstly, we have medicine. Investing in medical items such painkillers, aspirin, antibiotics, penicillin drugs, bandages and gauze (basically, medical items that you know people will need during the SHTF) and storing large amounts of them will assure you even more gold than you can imagine. Throughout history it has been seen that during an economic crisis most pharmaceutical supplies will go to a complete standstill, especially if that situation has caused civil unrest, most suppliers would not risk transporting their medical supplies. This in turn creates a lot of demand due to the limited supply.

Secondly, ammunition, (specifying on bullets and not actually guns) just rewind back to the wild west and remember how you could trade bullets for a can of beans. Usually, the sale of ammunition varies from country to country i.e. if your country is prone to armed violence than it wise to stock up ammunition. If you have enough of these then you can be able to barter them for other goods that you may not have.

Also in our list, we have seeds which you know from history can act as a trading item. Though a word of caution, travelling with a very large stock of seeds can make you a target for authoritative figures such as the police.

Fourthly, tea, coffee and alcohol. Most may not realize this but these beverages have become convectional necessities, meaning that people have been using it so much, up to a point that it has been labelled under basic goods as people can purchase it despite prices being high. These beverages are like water to some people, especially those who are addicted to it. If there is a financial collapse (as an example) most goods like alcohol will be impossible to find but if you will be able to have a few bottles if not a whole barrel of this item, then you will most likely get a lot of people who are interested in buying it.

We also have sugar, salt, spices, seasonings and honey which can not only last for years and has also proved from the past to be one of the most expensive items of trade. Some spices have multipurpose uses, examples are cinnamon which has antiseptic properties and ginger which can be used in treating colds and flu. Some people who may not have enough money to buy medicine may opt for other sources such as the use of herbs and spices in preventing certain illnesses, I use the word prevent because what these spices and herbs do is not necessarily curing certain illnesses but instead strengthen your immune system by improving the production of antibodies in your body.

Last but not least, your skills. Yes! What service can you offer people for pay, can you hunt, brew beer, smelt metal, farm, herd, deliver a baby (especially this one). It would be a good idea to get to know of certain skills because an economic crisis may force a country to go back to the “local economy” whereby most goods are usually bartered and when it comes to the special skills that you have, this can label you as a very valuable person because of the scarcity of the people involved in that field. Other forms of currency include; cigarettes, bar soap, fuels, battery cells and even your food stockpile i.e. if you have enough of it.

In conclusion, when disposable income is commonly available in ones life some may tend to spend disproportionately on a bunker, guns and gold as opposed to the items listed above. I’m not saying these are not prudent investments but, accounting for hyperinflation, the prices of the items above will prove to be better speculative investments when the SHTF. After all a single bullet chambered in a $125 handgun will convince one to give up any form of currency.

Since the majority of us don’t have “much” to spend on gold but have just enough to feed our family and enjoy a few luxuries still all under a budget, then I suggest you invest your money on these items.

The post Currency of the Middle Class After the SHTF appeared first on The Prepper Journal.

Do You Think You’re Financially Safe After Retirement?

Of all the challenges facing us for retirement, financial challenges are very likely the greatest. Times have changed since our parents’ generation, and so most of us Baby Boomers don’t have the retirement packages that our parents had.

Oh, the companies we worked for might have talked a good talk, but when it comes down to it, what we thought we might get and what we will really get may not be anywhere close to the same thing.

So how are we going to make it though our retirement years?

The WHY? Question has a Simple Answer

Part of the problem is that the law has changed, affecting how companies handle retirement benefits. I distinctly remember when that happened, back in my teen years. Before that, even working for a company for a few years could qualify you for retirement. But after that, you needed a minimum of seven years to be vested at all and 20 years to be fully vested for retirement.

What does that mean? It means that if you worked for a company for seven years, you will get a minimal retirement, something like ten percent of full retirement. You have to have worked for the same company for 20 years, in order to receive a full retirement. How many of us have done that?

The truth of the matter is, it’s not just the way that employers handle things that have changed, but how we handle them as well. Few people work for a company for more than a few years, before moving on to another. What that means is that they are never fully vested for retirement in any company.

In my own career, I have worked long enough to be minimally vested in only two companies. I took a buyout for my retirement fund from the first one, as I was starting my own business and needed the money. So I only have retirement from one of those two companies; and that comes to a whopping $110 per month. Oh, and I left that company as an engineering manager, so you’d think that I would have more than that coming to me.

Many of my school chums are in even worse conditions than I am. They either didn’t have as successful a career as I did or they moved around more than I did. The result is that they have absolutely no retirement coming to them, from any company they worked for.

That’s a whole lot different than my father’s generation. He had 20 years in with one company and 15 with another. So when retirement time came around, he had some pretty good money coming in. Unlike our generation, he didn’t need to depend on Social Security for his retirement income.

Speaking of Social Security, you should probably take a look at your hole card and find out how much your expected benefits from Social Security are, if you haven’t already.

Currently, the maximum possible benefits from Social Security, for those who managed to rack up the maximum possible earnings for each year, including a FRA of 66 in 2017, is $2,687 a month. Not exactly something to write home about. But few people actually get that much. The average benefit paid out this year is just $1,342 a month.

Unless you have absolutely no debt and your home is paid off, that $1,300 a month isn’t going to go very far. Even if you and your spouse both receive that much a month, that’s still a touch shy of $2,700 a month; and Social Security benefits are taxable income.

Taking an Honest Look at the Cost of Retirement

The first question you have to ask yourself is how much retirement money you will have coming in. That figure includes Social Security, any retirement you have coming from companies that you’ve worked for, and any retirement funds you have saved or invested.

Sadly, few of us have much money set aside for retirement. According to the latest statistics I can find, the median average retirement savings for people 56 – 61 years old, is a mere $17,000. That’s obviously not going to go all that far.

But even if you’ve managed to beat the odds, and have a million dollars in the bank, that’s no longer enough to retire on, even though it was considered enough to retire on for decades. Assuming an annual salary of $50,000 per year (the nationwide average family income), you would have had to be putting $1,150 per month into your retirement savings, at today’s interest rates, in order to have enough for your retirement.

Of course, to do that, you probably wouldn’t have had enough to keep shoes on your kids feet and a roof over their heads. So it’s rather unlikely you managed to do anything close to that, unless you made a whole lot more money than the average.

The other side of the calculation is how much money you need to have, in order to pay your bills, once you retire.

Fortunately, your kids and mine are grown up by now, so you don’t have their expenses. So that saves a little. But most of your expenses are probably pretty much the same as they have been for a number of years, unless you’ve moved, stopped driving a car or stopped heating your home.

So sit down and write out a retirement budget. Actually, write out two of them. One should be the retirement budget that you need to have, in order to keep living like you are right now. The other should be bare bones, seeing how much you can cut out and still survive.

Don’t forget medical expenses in these two budgets. Unless you have some sort of medical plan through your work, that continues through retirement or you’re a veteran and will be taken care of (albeit not necessarily all that well) by the government, you are going to have some medical expenses. Even in retirement, Medicare will cost you something. On top of that, you may have medical expenses which Medicaid won’t cover.

There will probably be a discrepancy between how much you will have coming in and how much you need to meet your bills. That’s what you’re trying to find. You need to know how much that discrepancy is, so that you can figure out a plan for dealing with it.

One Option – Downsizing

Probably the single most common way that people deal with the discrepancy between their income and their outgo in retirement is by downsizing. Mostly this means selling their home and moving into a smaller one. That might make sense if it will save you money; but that’s not always the case.

There are really only a few ways in which selling your home to buy a smaller one can save you money:

You have a mortgage and downsizing will allow you to buy a home for cash. This requires having enough equity in the home to cover the cost of the smaller home.
Your smaller home will be less costly to heat and cool.
You’re moving into a camper or tiny home, that you will be able to take north in the summer and south in the winter.

Of course, downsizing doesn’t have to mean just your home.

You may have other monthly expenses that you can do without, such as car payments on large vehicles that you no longer need to have, because you are no longer hauling kids around. You might also have other expenses, which you felt you needed to have for your kids, but no longer need.

The Other Option – Increase Your Income

Unfortunately, few companies want to keep people on the payroll after they hit retirement age. Nor do most companies want to hire people who are that age. There are a number of reasons for this, but they all boil down to economics. It’s cheaper for companies to hire younger employees.

So it’s doubtful that you can find a job to increase your income. It’s not impossible, but it is doubtful. But that doesn’t mean that there’s no way that you can earn extra money to fill the gap between your expected income and your expected expenses. There are a number of things you can do; mostly things that involve being self-employed in one way or another.

There are some major advantages to being self-employed; advantages that tie in nicely with retirement. The top two are that you can set your own schedule and you can work from home. While working from home requires discipline to avoid distractions, it is generally a much more comfortable place to work.

What you ultimately decide to do will depend a lot on the skills you have, your health and how much time you decide to dedicate to work during what are supposed to be your retirement years. As always, the more skills you have, the more options you have, so a good starting point is taking an inventory of your skills, with an eye towards how you might use them to augment your income.

Without going into a lot of detail, here are some basic ideas about how you can turn your skills into cash:

Freelance work – There are several platforms online, which allow those who are looking to do work on contract. This is advantageous to companies, as it allow them to hire people to do work on a part-time hourly basis or by the project. All sorts of professionals and para-professionals do work via freelancing online.
Handicrafts – If you are a crafty sort of person, you could make craft items for sale. I know people who are making well in excess of a thousand dollars a month, monetizing their hobby. The best place to sell these crafts is through Etsy, an online store. You could also sell through local gift shops.
eBay or Amazon Store – Both eBay and Amazon have created amazing opportunities for those who wish to start their own business, selling just about anything online.
YouTube Channel – If you are an expert at something that people want to know about, start recording videos and creating a YouTube channel. There are currently thousands of these, with the top channels making millions of dollars per year, simply for the advertisements that are attached to the videos by YouTube.

These are just a few possibilities. There are many more, such as blogging, which can make money off of advertising and more starting an online store, drop shipping products to your customers. The really great thing about all these ideas, is that they require very little investment on your part, other than your time.

In the end, it’s all about the skills, as they are the only valuable that nobody can ever take away from you.

This article has been written by Bill White for Survivopedia.

from Survivopedia
Don't forget to visit the store and pick up some gear at The COR Outfitters. How prepared are you for emergencies?
#SurvivalFirestarter #SurvivalBugOutBackpack #PrepperSurvivalPack #SHTFGear #SHTFBag

Thursday, October 5, 2017

7+1 Tips On How To Deal With Flood Remains

The problem with dealing with hurricanes, tropical storms, or other storm systems that bring a lot of rain in a little time is that you’re not just dealing with the storms. Though that’s certainly bad enough, sometimes it’s what comes after that does more damage than the actual storm.

What am I talking about? Flooding. I live in a hurricane zone, and we have a saying: hide from the winds, but run from the water. That’s because there usually very few lives lost due to damage from the high winds; most lives are lost to flooding.

On top of that, much of the extensive damage is also caused by flooding. How do you deal with the remains?

The actual storm itself rarely lasts more than a few hours but it can take weeks for a river to crest after the storm is past.

For example, the St. Johns River that runs from Vero Beach in Southeast Florida, up the middle of the state, then empties into the Atlantic Ocean in Jacksonville, is a north-flowing, lazy river. That can make for a bad situation for a couple of reasons.

First, it’s common for hurricanes to hit the southern part of the state then pound the rest of it with heavy downfalls. Since the St. Johns both starts and empties into the Atlantic Ocean, it can get a storm surge from both ends if the storm hits just right.

This Device Easily Turns Air Into Water!

Add in a foot or two of heavy rain to a state that’s not very far from sea level and you’re going to see major flooding in the dry areas, too.

So, you have the initial surge, which can push it off the banks, then you have water draining toward it from all directions inland then you have to factor in the slow rate at which it runs – .3 mph. That means that, assuming we’re lucky enough to have dry weather for a couple of weeks after the hurricane, it can take the river up to a week or so to crest; if it rains it can take even longer than that. And, since it’s lazy, it’s not receding for several days to a week.

So it’s not uncommon for a house near the St. Johns to make it through the hurricane just fine, but flood three or four days later, and stay that way for a few days. And this is a problem that happens all over the world; I just used the St. Johns because it’s one that I have first-hand experience with.

The reason that I took the time to go into this is because it’s important to understand that time plays a huge factor in things. Houses, yards, manufacturing plants, and buildings can be flooded for days, or even a week.

This opens up the door to a tremendous amount of potential toxins to flow, mix, and/or grow:

Septic waste: A septic tank may be able to handle a little bit of flooding, especially if it’s localized, but if the land is submerged for several days, it’s a different story. The leech field and even the tank itself are leaking into the floodwaters.
Fertilizers and pesticides: Again, a quick wash of floodwater may contaminate things a little, but when the water has plenty of time to sit and thoroughly saturate the soil deep down, it draws up toxins that have been soaking into the ground for months or years and spreads it far and wide.
Sewage plants: It’s practically a given that at least one sewage plant is going to suffer spillage during a flood.
Landfills: if it’s in a flood zone, it’s going to share the wonders of decomposing food, feminine hygiene products, diapers, and all the other stuff you’d typically want to make tea with. Home garbage containers also spill into floodwaters, so that’s another source of loveliness.
Dead Fish: between the contamination and the change in temperature and pH levels, there’s almost always a huge amount of dead fish that add to the contamination of the water, and also end up scattered on the banks, leaving the lovely smell – and health hazard – of dead fish strung along the shore, baking in the sun.
Mold: now that there’s a lovely, poisonous soup sitting in a building, or even on the ground, stewing in the heat, mold, and mildew start to grow. This creates another hazard that’s hazardous to you, both if you touch it and if you breathe it.
Storm debris: the winds and rushing water bring down trees and tree limbs, roof shingles, siding, fences, signs, and many other hazards that flow in the water and are left scattered behind once the water recedes, leaving physical hazards as well as chemical ones.

Now that you have an idea of just how damaging floods are, you need to know how to deal with the aftermath.

Be Prepared

Just like food is going to be scarce before the storm, cleaning supplies are going to be in demand following it. Stock up on garbage bags, bleach, rubber gloves, paper towels, rags, and whatever else you may need to clean up your area. Of course, if you prepare for a hurricane throughout the year, this may not be an issue for you.

Don’t Swim in It

After learning about all of the disgusting contents in floodwaters, the last thing you would probably think to do is swim in it. But many people don’t.

Kids of all ages like to get out and wade in the floodwaters, and even after the waters start to go down, it’s hot and people want to go swimming in the river.

Don’t. Just because the water has receded doesn’t mean that the toxins aren’t still there.

Pay attention to local EPA and Fish and Wildlife folks who monitor the level of contamination in the water and don’t go back in until they deem it safe.

Boil Water

Often, if you’re on city water, your city will issue a boil-water alert until they’re sure that the water is safe to drink again. Heed these warnings – they’re given for a reason. Usually, this is just for drinking water, but sometimes they’ll issue one for water used for hygiene as well.

It’s best to stockpile some water, both because your power may be out for awhile and because of the danger of contamination after the storm.

Test Your Soil

Though most of the time, the soil will be OK a few weeks or months after the flood, have it tested. The contaminants stay in it for a long time after the waters recede.

As a matter of fact, I once lost an entire litter of 4-week-old puppies to Parvo two weeks after a flood because the ground had been contaminated via rats’ nests that had been flooded.

As we know, rats also caused a couple of plagues, so this isn’t something to take lightly.

Wear Sturdy Shoes

By now, you’ve probably figured out that the ground is gross even after the waters recede. If you have to wade in the water, wear rubber boots that are higher than the water so that your feet don’t come into contact with water.

However, it’s best not to wade in the water at all because there are all kinds of things – boards with nails, broken glass, etc. – that you can’t see and will cut your shoes right along with your feet. Then all of those lovely contaminants are in your bloodstream.

Wear Gloves and Masks

Once you have to go in and start doing cleanup, you don’t want to touch the contaminated debris with your bare hands and you don’t want to breathe the air in enclosed spaces because of the mold and mildew. It can and will cause serious health issues once you suck it into your lungs. Medical masks are fairly cheap, especially compared to funeral expenses.

Dispose of Debris Appropriately

At the time of this writing, it’s three weeks post-Irma and there are still huge piles of yard debris lining the streets and stacked in parking lots. Follow local ordinances and be patient. If you want to dispose of it yourself rather than wait for city or county waste companies to get to you, there are often designated drop-off areas where you can haul it to.

Typically, these drop zones are for yard debris only. Drywall, fencing, shingles, flooded household goods and furniture, or any other non-bushy stuff isn’t accepted. Check for area dumps to haul building debris to, or call your municipality to find out if they’ve made special arrangements to pick up this type of waste.

Watch your Pets

Dogs and cats just love to roll in gross stuff and eat dead things that they shouldn’t.

There’s also the danger of nails, glass, and disease (see afore-mentioned Parvo) that are dangers to your animals. Horses are at particular risk, too, because of the way that their hooves are made. A nail can easily penetrate the sole, so be sure to police the yard and turnout areas where your pets will be roaming before you let them out.

Floods cause millions of dollars of damage and lives are lost both to the rushing waters and the hazards that accompany the water, both during and after the event.

Use common sense and follow precautions set forth by your local authorities. Post-disaster really isn’t a time to ignore safety directions because if warnings are issued, you can guarantee that there’s some level of risk.

That’s why you need to stay prepared and to know how to keep you and your family safe!

Have you been through floods and have suggestions, tips, or a story you’d like to share? If so, please do so in the comments section below.

This article has been written by Theresa Crouse for Survivopedia.

How To Create Your Own Home Defense Plan

Written by Guest Contributor on The Prepper Journal.

You may have a plan to evacuate during a house fire or even a plan to evacuate during an earthquake. But does a home defense plan exist in your home? The answer to that is probably no, right? Sure, the thought has crossed your mind, but you are probably among the few folks who don’t have a sure-fire plan in place. Let alone know how to proceed if an intruder gets into your house while you’re there. Not knowing what to do should prompt you to take action to protect yourself and those that you love in the case of the unthinkable happening.

Have a Designated Safe Room

There are many actions you can take to further protect your loved ones and yourself prior to a home invasion occurring. The number one course of action to take is to have a safe room created. Your safe room does not need to be fancy either, it can be something as simple as a basement that has a re-enforced door. Regardless of your skill for creating a safe room, there are many ways that you can create at least a safer room if not the perfect safe room.

First – Install a sturdy main door in a metal frame. Then add a durable doorknob and a re-enforced deadbolt. With most inside doors being slim and light, and hollow they can get kicked in quite easily. You must make it problematic for the invader to reach you.

Second – If the area includes a window, replace the window with glass that is shatterproof; consider using shatterproof film for glass windows as a cost-effective alternative.

Third – Adding an extension to your security system is not a bad idea. These will enhance your current system. So if you don’t already have a panic alarm inside your safe room, get one installed. Having this feature will allow you to notify the police without having your main security alarm armed.

Fourth – Have a miniature camera installed so you can see beyond your door. This can also be an extension of your home alarm system or you can install it as an independent camera. If you do use it as an independent unit, make sure that you are able to view its live video via a smartphone or computer so you can identify law enforcement as they arrive.

Fifth – Place a weapon safe inside. If you own a weapon, then it is a good idea to have a weapon safe to go with it. This will ensure that your 12 gauge shotguns, handguns, and/or rifles will be safe and accessible by only you.

Response Time is Everything

It can seem difficult to respond properly to the sound of broken glass in the early morning hours. Your response time is crucial at that point.

If you are alone, your best bet is to remain where you are, put a defensive behind your bedroom door and contact law enforcement immediately. This would also be the perfect time to get your firearm ready just in case the burglar is determined to enter your room. Even if you don’t have a weapon, you can give a verbal warning that you are armed and fully trained in your weapons use. This warning should be given while you position yourself in an area that you can defend easily and where you will have a full view of your “kill zone.”

If you have children or other individuals that you are responsible for in your home, then the entire plan completely changes. Normally, you would feel discouraged from leaving your bedroom, but because you have loved ones now involved, you are more determined to go and rescue them from the potential danger. Again, stressing the fact that arming yourself can’t be stressed enough.

Close-Quarter Defense Training

If you own a gun and have received the necessary training, then experiencing a home invasion will definitely test your ability to safely defend your home. This will also put your close-quarter training to the test as you move throughout your house. You have to realize though that your close-quarter training will be nothing like what the police receive. The main difference is the goal. As a homeowner executing a home defense plan, your goal is to get you and your family to one designated area safely because your ability to search for your family safely will be non-existent.

If you are unsure of what you need to consider for your home invasion plan, here are 8 things to keep in mind:

One – Rehearse every movement you plan to make. Make sure your route is clear and non-visible. Consider things that might happen in the dark.

Two – Make sure you have a gun safe within reach at all times and near your bed.

Three – Have a reliable light source as you search. Even though many guns can have a flashlight attached, they are deemed as useless for conducting searches.

Four – Make sure that all family members are involved. To be more successful, it’s best to work in groups of two. But if your family is not big enough, then conducting your drill together is ideal.

Five – The age of your children will play a huge factor because of their level of understanding. But if they are old enough, they need to be included. If they are too young, you may want to refrain from sharing the details. What you can tell them though, is to hide in a prearranged area so that you can come for them in the case of danger.

Six – After you have your family together, have your next move set. This could be staying where you are and creating your defensive. If your safe room is near you then head that way quietly. Whatever you do though, it is considered unwise to return to the area where you originally started from. So the wisest thing you should do is safely and quietly exit your home.

Seven – Having a fully charged cell phone on your nightstand is an absolute must. You will be able to quickly call law enforcement.

Eight – Unless you are evacuating your family out of the home, you should never attempt to conduct a “sweep”. Not only is it dangerous but you never know what could be around the corner in your own home.

Unconventional Weapons To Use

You have to make your home defend-able at all costs because a determined intruder will not stop. That is why using unconventional weapons to stop their advances will come in handy. If you are one of many gun owners, then chances are you will be able to stop them if you confront them with your weapon. But, if you don’t own a gun, you may want to consider using any and all of these to defend your home:

A knife
A lamp
A fire extinguisher
Baseball bat
Hot liquids
Pepper spray
A taser gun

Whatever you do, never think that a home invasion will never happen to you. Times have changed drastically and safe neighborhoods have started to become targets. This isn’t meant to scare you, it is just the truth and you should remain vigilant if you do see yourself staring a burglar in the face after hearing your window breaking. Therefore, having a home defense plan in place is so important.

Author Bio

Jeremy Hopper is a home & safe defense specialist. He has chosen this career path to share his knowledge with other gun enthusiasts in order to help them stay safe and make the best choice when buying a weapon. He specializes in firearms and he writes reviews of home defense guns.

The post How To Create Your Own Home Defense Plan appeared first on The Prepper Journal.

Wednesday, October 4, 2017

Life.Church Worship - What We Do

via YouTube Video Don't forget to visit the store and pick up some gear at The COR Outfitters. How prepared are you for emergencies?
#SurvivalFirestarter #SurvivalBugOutBackpack #PrepperSurvivalPack #SHTFGear #SHTFBag

Three Guns To Consider for Home Defense

by Vicki C

Ruger Mini-14 We can’t know for sure how or when the world as we know it will end, but we are definitely headed for destruction. Some of the most popular scenarios for doomsday are natural disasters (and with the recent hurricanes, it looks like we’re not that far), nuclear terrorism or war (see the conflict between the US and North Korea) or, the more futuristic one, the zombie apocalypse.

Regardless of the scenario, we are closer and closer every day and the only ones who will survive are the ones who know how to behave in an SHTF situation. So, will you be ready to protect yourself and...

Read the whole entry... »

Indivisible: With Justice for Some by Troy Grice

This book was made available to you here by the good folks at Prepper Press – you might also be interested in reading the sequel to this book “Come and Take It” or some of the other great offering that you’ll find on their site.

This is chapter two – each subsequent chapter will be posted here starting next Tuesday until the book is completed …

Chapter 2

Specialists Jimmy Marzan and Michael Rollins sat next to each other, packed tightly with four other soldiers into their filthy, rattling Humvee which itself was held together in places with duct tape and bailing wire. They rode...

Read the whole entry... »

Lifesaving Rappelling Basics You Need To Know

In these times, riots, earthquakes, hurricanes, and many other problems make it likely you will be trapped in a building or need to get over a mountain.

While many people don’t think much about rappelling, it is a vital skill to have.

Basic rope working techniques associated with rappelling can help you get safely out of a multistory building to the ground, down the side of a mountain, or down from some other height when you need to save yourself.

Learning Rappelling

Essentially, when you rappel, you will be making your way down to the ground or a lower level using ropes and other accessories that enable you to control your downward motion and speed.

When compared to climbing up a mountain or to some other height, you will find that far more accidents happen on the way down.

Rappelling skills take time to learn and practice to maintain. Never rappel on your own until you master the process under the watchful eyes of an expert.

Better yet, sign up for classes in a certified climbing school.

Where to Practice

Like any other activity, it is best to start off in a place where you will be as safe as possible while you develop good habits and improve your skills.

When it comes to rappelling, the school you go to should have access to small cliffs or other safe locations.

Never try to learn the basics on a large cliff or off a building. This is where most beginners get into trouble and can get seriously injured or killed.

3 Second SEAL Test Will Tell You If You’ll Survive A SHTF Situation

Don’t rush to meet your next goals just for the sake of completing them. Unfortunately, just because you think you are ready, that doesn’t mean you haven’t overlooked something critical.

Take your time and see what kind of mistakes emerge while you can fix them before they cost your life in a more dangerous setting.

Basic Hand Positions

Regardless of what you are doing or the hand positions you are using, NEVER let go of the rappelling ropes. When rappelling you must have both hands on the rappelling ropes.

If you are right handed, your right hand will be the braking hand. Keep your right hand below the rappelling device. Your left hand will be your guide hand, and must be kept above the rappelling device.
If you are left handed, then your left hand will be the braking hand, and right hand will be your guide hand.

Guide Hand Position

When rappelling down easy faces or slabs that are less than vertical, place your guide hand above the rappelling device. Use a light grip on the rope and let it slide through the hand.

Insert your guide hand’s index finger between the two ropes to keep them separated during the rappelling. This simple process keeps the ropes untangled and makes it easier to pull the ropes down.

Brake Hand Position

Your lower hand controls your speed of the descent down the rope. When rappelling using a single brake hand, keep the brake hand down by your hip to allow you to maintain a constant friction on the rope through the rappelling device.

Warning! If you are using thin ropes and you let go with your braking hand, the thin ropes might to slip through the rappelling device and drop you to the ground below! This is just one of many reasons why you must always keep two hands on the ropes at all times while you are rappelling.

Two Braking Hands

Consider a situation where you are on a steep slope, or overhanging in a way that leaves you suspended in the air and not touching any surface with your feet. It is safer to use both hands as brake hands because it gives you more control than using a single brake hand.

On free rappels, always use an autoblock knot as a safety backup knot. This knot keeps you from zipping down the rope in an out of control fall.

Always put your lower brake hand on the autoblock knot so it slides easily and does not lock up unless you need to stop. Put your upper brake hand below the rappelling device and let the rope run through it.

Using Friction While Rappelling

How to Slow Down Using Friction

As you are rappelling downward, let the ropes slide through your brake hand. If you are going too fast apply more pressure to slow down.

You can also ratchet the ropes down in the rappelling device with your brake hand, which will increase the friction on the rope as it moves through the device.

Some rappellers wear a leather glove on their brake hand to help control their descent speed, as well as to protect their hands from cuts, friction burns, and debris from the ropes.

When to use extra friction on free rappelling

On very steep rappelling, you may need more friction than both your brake hands and the rappelling device can provide. For extra control and friction, wrap the ropes around your butt and hold onto them with a brake hand on the opposite side.

Another way to add more friction is to drop the rappelling ropes between your legs and pull them up against a thigh for more friction.

Basic Rappelling Steps

1. Choose the Rappelling Area Carefully

Before you prepare your ropes and gear, it is important to choose a safe area for the ropes to fall.

For example, if you are rappelling down a mountain, look carefully at the first ten feet or so for notches, grooves, sharp edges, and loose rocks. For safe rappelling try to avoid these features, as they can hang up the rope or damage it.

As you are rappelling downward, you will need to repeat the study process and look for other possible problems like tress, bushes or large rocks that could hang up the rope when you pull on it from below. Loose rocks and other debris can still fall and hit you or anyone with you when you pull on the ropes no matter how far along you may be.

Remember that rope safety is your first concern. If there is a chance of the rope getting stuck or having it rip out rocks or other hazards, try to relocate the rope to a safer spot.

2. Rappelling rope preparation

Take the two ropes and knot them together using a Double Overhead Knot or a Double figure 8 Fisherman’s knot, and then a stopper knot at the end of each rope tail.

Next stack the two ropes separately and throw them down separately so they don’t get tangled.

3. Safety check of the rappelling knot and rigging

Before you or anyone else begins rappelling, do a safety check of the knot between the two ropes to make sure the knots are tied correctly, both ropes have autoblock knots, and stopper knots on them.

Make sure that one of the ropes go through the metal descending ring. Check the slings or chains that secure the ring to the anchor bolts.

If your equipment is not in good working order, do not use it. If the sling isn’t working right, you can add an additional sling or a piece of webbing as a safety backup.

4. Recheck the ropes

Look at which side of the descending ring that the knot is on. This is the side to pull. Always look at the color of the rope and decide which color to to pull before rappelling. This helps to keep the wrong rope from being pulled and jamming the knot in to the ring.

Make sure the ropes haven’t crossed each other and are not twisted on the chains or slings. Be sure both strands of rope run cleanly down the wall from the rappel anchor without binding or twisting against each other.

It is possible for just one twist against the anchor or ring to hang up the rope and make it impossible to pull.

Sometimes as you are rappelling the ropes can twist against each other. Always be prepared for this problem and be able to solve it without putting yourself in danger.

5. To keep the rope strands separated use a guide finger

As the last individual goes down the ropes have them use a guide finger to separate the ropes so they drop without kinks or tangles to the next set of rappel anchors.

The best way to do this is to put a finger of your gloved guide hand above the rappelling device between the two ropes and descend.

If the ropes get twisted up at the anchor it will be nearly impossible to pull the ropes down. If this happens. Someone will have to reascend the stuck rope to untwist them.

6. Always test the rope pull from below

When the first climber rappels down to the next rappel station, have them test the pull of the ropes.

If the pull is easy, then the odds are you will be fine. If the rope is hard to pull, then the top climber will need to make adjustments from the top before rappelling down.

If you are rappelling alone, then you may need to go back up and adjust the ropes before moving on to the next point.

Some solutions to a rope that is hard to pull include:

Move the bulky knot that connects the two rappelling ropes downward.
If there is a ledge at the top, move the rope knot down below the ledge. Retest the rope pull from below. Do not forget to climb down over the ledge before adding your weight to the ropes.

7. Pulling the rappelling ropes

After you and your partner have both completed rappelling down to the next rappelling station or to ground level, it is time to pull the ropes. If everything has checked out, the ropes should pull easily.

Here are four safety tips for pulling ropes:

When pulling ropes on multiple rappels, feed the free end of the rope through the new descending ring as you pull it. Failure to do this could result in losing the rope if you just let the rope fall to you before threading the ring.
The flying free end of rope can lash out and cause injury after being pulled through a rappelling anchor. Wear gloves and a helmet to protect your face and hands.
While pulling the ropes, always be on the look out for falling rocks or other debris.
It is very important to yell “Rope”! When pulling down a rope so that everyone you are with knows. This alerts everyone that ropes and possibly rocks will be falling.

Why Can Rappelling be so Dangerous?

Rappelling, in my opinion is the most dangerous technique used by climbers in the sport of mountain climbing. Here the safety of the climber depends on both their rappelling equipment and their anchors.

Once you lean back on the rappelling rope and you are committed for the descent, all that keeps you safe is your climbing skills and your equipment.

When rappelling your life depends on an anchor system. This system has to be well secured for your safety and well being. If you fall you could end up as a statistic for getting killed or being critically injured.

Most rappelling accidents are the end result of the rappeler’s errors in judgment and could have been avoided.

3 Second SEAL Test Will Tell You If You’ll Survive A SHTF Situation

When rappelling always use the buddy system to check out each others rappelling gear and rappelling set up.

Each individual needs to visually check the other person’s climbing hardware, the anchors, bolts and slings on the anchors, and finally verify that the knot connecting the two ropes are tied correctly.

What can go wrong?

Rappelling is always dangerous and sometimes a bit scary when you are trusting your life to anchors and a rope. When rappelling there are a few things that can go terribly wrong.

Here is a list of a few of them:

Failure to tie a stopper knot in the ends of the ropes and you rappel off the end of the ropes.
The rappel anchors fail and you fall down to the ground.
The rope connector knot comes untied. This can also cause you to fall to the ground.
Didn’t use an autoblock knot as a back up, which can cause you to run off the ends of the rappelling ropes.
Letting go of the rope with your brake hand can cause an uncontrollable slide down the rappelling ropes.
The pull rope gets stuck when you try to pull it. Don’t forget you can try pulling on the other rope to free it. If not, someone must ascend back up the ropes to untangle them.
The rope gets cut on a sharp edge. Access, repair, or replace the cut rope before further use of it.
You might lose control if the overhang is too large. If possible relocate the rappelling ropes to a better location where the overhanging is not as bad.
The rappelling device was rigged wrong. The rappelling ropes will not operate correctly in the rappel device, which will prevent you from moving downward in controlled fashion.
Clothing or your hair gets stuck in the rappelling device. This will jam the rappelling device and must be carefully removed to allow the device to work properly again.

Even though many people don’t think about rappelling much beyond an outdoor sport, it is also an important skill to learn for preppers.

You can use rappelling to get out of a building or down a mountain as long as you have the right training and gear.

As dangerous as rappelling can be, it can still save your life as long as you know how to avoid the most common problems and approach the event with care and consideration.

Practice this skill, as your life might depend on it one day! Would you survive?

This article has been written by Fred Tyrell for Survivopedia.

How to Use a Spotting Scope for Birding

Written by Guest Contributor on The Prepper Journal.

Editors Note: A guest contribution from Kevin Fleeman at LifeUnderSky.com to The Prepper Journal. A lot of gems in this to pick up and apply not only to the subject matter but to hunting and survival as well. As always, if you have information for Preppers that you would like to share and possibly receive a $25 cash award as well as be entered into the Prepper Writing Contest with a chance to win one of three Amazon Gift Cards with the top prize being a $300 card to purchase your own prepping supplies, enter today.

“Birding” is among the most popular recreational activities in America. In fact, statistics show that the total population of birders stands at around 47 million. At this rate, chances are if your next-door neighbor isn’t a birder, you are. And every skill and technique used by “birders” is directly applicable to survival in the wilderness.

Binoculars can help you spot a bird from a respectable distance away, but that is just about it. To get close and personal, the tool to use is a spotting scope. These will allow you to identify the type of bird by its unique markings with the least possible effort. Binoculars were the most important tool for birders however, with the quality of spotting scopes now available, this is really the right solution for any serious birder, or hunter, or survivalist.

When it comes to magnification, binoculars simply cannot compete with spotting scopes. While most binoculars offer a maximum magnification of around 15x, this is where spotting scopes begin. Some have eyepiece lenses that can magnify up to 60x and the whole unit is capable of producing up to 150x magnification.

Image clarity is also another important benefit of using the scopes. Binos will not provide quite as clear an image owing to the fact that they are two telescopes joined together by a middle section. Each however, adjusts independently making it difficult to achieve that clear-cut synchronization.

Using a spotting scope for birding brings you closer than you ever have been to your target. Even birds you already knew start to appear different. At this point, you can watch your progression start to develop as you become more in tune with your target.

Tripod

All that magnification comes at a cost. The spotting scopes are usually larger that the binoculars. For this reason, you will need a good tripod stand to use the scope more efficiently. It should be able to raise the scope high enough for a comfortable viewing experience.

Compared with the regular binoculars which can simply be hung around your neck and raised just a short distance to your eyes, spotting scopes need to be set up correctly and this may take valuable time. However, you can be sure that once it is time to look through the eyepiece, the experience will be worth it. As always, in a SHTF scenario the lower tripod provides less of a signature, BUT, on can use the surrounding foliage, rocks and land features to camouflage a larger set up.

Configurations

There are two main types of spotting scopes. Straight scopes and angled spotting scopes. With the straight type, the viewing position is parallel to the length of the equipment. With angled scopes, the eyepiece is at an angle of 45 degrees to the length of the scope.

Beginner bird watchers tend to prefer the straight spotting scopes. They find these easier to use. On the other hand, angled scopes have a more comfortable viewing position.

Whichever scope you use depends on your personal preference or viewing habits. If you like bird viewing from your car window then the straight variety is the best. However, for those who like to watch birds with the company of friends and family, the angled spotted scopes are preferable. This is due to the fact that individuals of varying heights will be able to view with fairly little adjustments.

Differences Between Spotting Scopes

As we have seen above there are two main types of spotting scopes. But that is not to say that two straight scopes from different manufacturers have the same features. The main differences come in the eyepiece magnification and the objective lens.

Some scopes have a fixed eyepiece that offers a standard magnification. Others have interchangeable eyepieces enabling the bird watcher to up the zoom. For veteran bird watchers, the interchangeable eyepiece seems to be a favourite. This is because it is easy for them to zoom out in order to cover a wide area. Once having spotted the bird, they can zoom in for a closer look.

The diameter of the objective is also a factor to consider. The larger it is the more light that can be gathered providing an even clearer image when the sun begins to set. It is tempting to go for the one with the largest objective lens. However, this means extra weight. Remember that a spotting scope is a piece of equipment that you will need to carry with you often into the field.

Finding the Best Spotting Scope for Birding

When you decide to buy a spotting scope, check out the extra features that are available to you. These features have to make your bird watching experience that more enhanced.

One of the most important things to look for is the ability to withstand harsh climatic condition. The best scopes have a rubber coating that protects the internal parts from getting damaged by water or fog.

The experience is far better if you can take images with you back home. Some spotting scopes can be mounted onto cameras. This depends on the manufacturer and is referred to as digiscoping allowing you to take close up shots of your favourite birds.

Focus capabilities cannot be overlooked. Most modern spotting scopes have more than one feature for focusing on your birdie. Dual focusing is one of them where you can adjust for both coarse and fine viewing. This comes in handy where the target is quite a distance away and you need to zoom in. Adjusting for fine focus develops an even clearer image.

Apochromatic is a term that most spotting scope owners are aware of. It refers to a special lens that eliminates color schemes that are inaccurate also known as color aberrations. The image resolution is enhanced making it easy for you to identify the type of bird you are looking at.

Spotting scopes require a lot of investment both financially and logistics wise. Unlike the binoculars which you can hang around your neck and pull up to your eyes at will, a spotting scope requires extra equipment to be able to function properly. However, the advantages far outweigh any cons. For the birdwatcher with great passion, binoculars simply will not cut it. Spotting scopes bring a distant bird close enabling the viewer to get the best view.

Author

Eric John is the founder of LifeUnderSky.com which focuses on hunting/shooting/survival. As in his experienced, he will guide you through the Do’s and Don’ts of the hunting world and transform you into a better hunter. Whether you are an experienced hunting or an absolute beginner, you will find a gem!

The post How to Use a Spotting Scope for Birding appeared first on The Prepper Journal.