Saturday, January 20, 2018

What did you do to prep this week?

Sorry, folks, I’m a little late in posting this today, some stuff came up but better late than never.

Before we get started with this weeks post I’d like to thank everyone who participated in my recent poll and a big thank you to those of you who left comments. It’s appreciated and those answers will help guide blog content in the future.

If you’re interested my books can be found in paperback versions on Amazon.com or if you prefer to get them all at once via instant download then you can do that here.

Okay, now what did I do to prep this week…

Not, a lot but...

Read the whole entry... »



from TheSurvivalistBlog.net RSS Feed
Don't forget to visit the store and pick up some gear at The COR Outfitters. Are you ready for any situation?
#SurvivalFirestarter #SurvivalBugOutBackpack #PrepperSurvivalPack #SHTFGear #SHTFBag

Friday, January 19, 2018

Wise Food Storage Product Review – Pros, Cons and What You Need To Know

by KGC.

If you like to write for The Survivalist Blog, do read How to become a guest author at The Survivalist Blog.

Your browser may not support display of this image. With so many choices of food storage products, I decided to give (Wise Food Storage) a shot because a trusted friend liked and recommended their products and Wise Food Storage boasts a 25-year shelf-life without having to rotate the food. I was skeptical at first, but up to the challenge.

I ordered one of their 56-serving buckets and prepared two of the packets once I received it. I immediately noticed that the packets in the...

Read the whole entry... »



from TheSurvivalistBlog.net RSS Feed
Don't forget to visit the store and pick up some gear at The COR Outfitters. Are you ready for any situation?
#SurvivalFirestarter #SurvivalBugOutBackpack #PrepperSurvivalPack #SHTFGear #SHTFBag

Reader Poll: What Would You Like To See More Of On The Blog?

As you know there are a huge number of prepper sites, survival blogs, and other related blogs and websites covering a multitude of topics. Some have good advice, however most just copy from the two or three main blogs in the niche.

With so many related websites it can be hard to stand out and bring readers information that they want and actually need and the best way to find out what those wants and needs are is to ask.

So here we go, what do you need from this site? What types of articles would you like to see more of? What kind of articles would you like to see less of? What products...

Read the whole entry... »



from TheSurvivalistBlog.net RSS Feed
Don't forget to visit the store and pick up some gear at The COR Outfitters. Are you ready for any situation?
#SurvivalFirestarter #SurvivalBugOutBackpack #PrepperSurvivalPack #SHTFGear #SHTFBag

Wilderness Survival – How to Build a Shelter in a Tree

Few wilderness survival resources are more important than trees, so making camp in proximity to trees often makes a great deal of sense as it puts the survivor’s shelter in proximity to resources and often provides a solid support structure off which to build.

Trees can also provide areas to build a shelter that are relatively free from deep snow. In these cases, trees can save a great deal of time and work.

Saving work by building off what is already provided by nature burns fewer calories and helps keep the survivor from working up a sweat, which can lead to severe discomfort or put the survivor at risk of hypothermia in cold weather.

Briefly:

  • Trees mean shelter from cold and heat alike, some species indicate the presence of surface water and any good camp site has an inexhaustible supply of firewood, so make for the trees.
  • Choose multipurpose hammock gear over the highly specialized stuff. Your expensive hammock may be comfy, but can’t catch dinner, secure an elk quarter to pack frame or be repurposed as a ghillie cloak.
  • In addition to many other survival uses, an autolocking carabiner doubles as a set of brass knuckles you can take almost anywhere, so clip one on your go bag. Add a length of 1” tubular webbing and you now have a lot more capability than if you only carry para cord.
  • Most hominid apes, including humans, build nests. Whether or not you believe in evolution, your ancestors have been building nests in trees for a long time, so you could say it is in your DNA.

Trees Provide Many Important Survival Resources

  • Fire – Trees can provide tools and tinder to start fires, fuel to keep them going, light to work into the night, coals to cook on and fire to work and cook with.
  • Shelter – Boughs provide insulation from the cold, hard ground. Branches and leaves provide a roof. Trunks and branches provide structural support, a windbreak and insulation.
  • Safety – Trees provide concealment and large trees can provide cover or a refuge from predators, snakes, thorns and biting insects. Branches from thorny trees or shrubs can also be used to create a barricade against predators.
  • Water – Some species of trees provide drinkable water, catch rainwater or provide support and shade for water-bearing vines. Other species indicate the likely presence of water or where water is likely to be near to the surface and accessible via shallow hand-dug wells. Trees also provide fire starting tools and materials to treat water by boiling.
  • Cordage – Bark is an important source of cordage material.
  • Food – Many species of trees produce edible nuts, fruits, leaves or layers of bark. Forests, trees and transition zones along the border of forests or stands of trees provide key habitat for many animal species that are useful for survival. Trees also provide engines to power snares and traps, can channel game to traps and provide secure anchor points for traps, nets and bank lines for fishing.

How To Build a Small Bunker in Your Backyard with $400

  • Medicine – Many species of trees have medical uses.
  • Tanning – Branches are useful for frames to stretch hides and the bark of some species is useful for bark tanning hides.
  • Tools & Weapons – Trees provide materials for bows, arrows, spears, rodent skewers, rabbit sticks, atlatls and other important weapons.
  • Communications – Trees are useful for some methods of short-range communications, trail signs and for blazes.
  • Navigation – Trees can be useful in direction finding and ascertaining the direction of prevailing winds when choosing campsites.

While trees provide bountiful survival resources, they can also present certain dangers which should not be ignored. I will list dangers at the end of the article.

Ground-based Tree Shelters

Tree-based shelters can be built on the ground or up off the ground. The choice between the two is largely dictated by situation and availability.

Keep an open mind as you search for the beginnings of a suitable shelter site. I like to say that survival is a DIY proposition and all shelters are fixer-uppers to some degree. I do not recall ever having stumbled upon a truly readymade natural shelter that needed no improvements, but nature has been kind enough to save me a great deal of work on many occasions. 

Fallen Trees

Opportunity from fallen trees typically comes in forms of root balls and trunks. In areas with poor, shallow topsoil, trees often blow over.

A root ball can form walls or even a partial roof. Depending on how long ago the tree fell, roots can often be bent out of the way or broken to clear and area large enough to sleep. Build up the walls and roof as desired.

The trunks of fallen trees can serve as ridgepole, roof or wall depending on the size of the tree and terrain that it falls in.

Tree Wells

You could look in hundreds of tree wells and not find one that looks anything like the diagrams you will find in survival manuals. This is because the shape of tree wells is determined by interactions between the tree the well forms under, the terrain and the wind, snowfall and other weather-related factors.

What you are looking for is dryer ground, dryer fire starting materials, shallower snow, a barrier against the wind, some semblance of overhead protection from precipitation.

You may find one or two of the above or you may hit the lottery and find them all.

Buttresses

Species of trees with buttresses typically grow in coastal areas or rainforests and the space between two buttresses can form two or three walls and leafy branches can provide a degree of shelter from precipitation. Sometimes a windbreak on two sides is all that is needed.

Hollow Trees

Some species of trees can have large hollows among the roots, in the trunk or in large false cavities inside a circle of fused trunks in species such the baobab tree in Africa. You will not find hobbits or elves living inside hollow trees, but you may find that some other critter had the same idea that you did and beat you to it, so inspect hollow trees carefully before settling in.

Off the Ground

Most of the time, I sleep on the ground, but there are times when it is best to be up off the ground.

Reasons to Get off the Ground

  • Safety from Predators – Situation dependent, trees can offer shelter from large predators or even other human beings. Be sure you know what you are dealing with though as climbing a tree limits your mobility and some predators can climb just fine. Hanging bear bags is standard practice in bear country.
  • Creepy Crawlies – Hammocks and other suspended shelters can get you up and out of reach of snakes and venomous arthropods.
  • Swamp, Bog or Wetlands – You do not get to choose where, the weather or time of day your transportation breaks down or crashes. This, coupled with injuries, darkness or other factors that limit mobility
  • Deep Snow, Rocky or Uneven Ground – Forced to shelter on a steep, snowy and/or rocky mountainside trees or hammocks can provide welcome, time-saving alternatives.
  • Excessive Spiny or Poisonous Flora – Even in the Arizona desert, I have never had trouble finding spots to sleep on the ground free of spines or plants that produce irritants, but it is possible that you could find yourself in such a situation, especially if you are

Hammock

For survival use, is generally more effective to steer clear of highly-specialized gear in favor of gear that is more modular and multipurpose. Instead of a high-end hammock, I carry gear that can serve as a hammock, but can also serve a multitude of other needs whether I am in the jungle in Brazil, a forest in the Rockies or in the desert.

Multi-purpose Hammock Gear

  • Cargo Net, General Purpose – In addition to serving as an able hammock, the GP cargo net can secure heavy/bulky materiel to a cargo frame, create a camouflage net or ghillie cape, create shade without stopping a breeze in the desert, catch fish, birds or small game for food.
  • 1” Tubular Webbing – Tubular webbing can be used to attach carabiners, lines or other equipment to trees without damaging them. It can also be used to fashion a rappelling harness or be used in combination with a carabiner to quickly rig an improvised seatbelt on a dangerous bus of train, rig a tourniquet, a ladder or a line to pull an injured comrade behind cover. The list just goes on and on. Short on space? Use it as the strap for your go bag.
  • Autolocking Carabiner & Mini Carabiners – I carry an autolocking carabiner on my go bag and two smaller, climbing-rated mini-carabiners on my go-bag. The autolocking carabiners serves double duty as a self-defense tool. Think of is brass knuckles that you can carry anywhere without looking like brass knuckles. Together with the mini-carabiners and cordage, I can hang a hammock, rig a backcountry block and tackle for heavy lifting, get down out of a third-floor window without breaking my legs and much more.
  • Para Cord – Para Cord and survival-specific composite, kernmantle-sheathed cordage are worth the weight and space they occupy in a go bag. I tie this type of cordage in rip cord hanks for compact storage and tangle-free deployment.
  • Military Poncho/Liner Combination or Equivalent – There are a lot of options that offer the same functionality as the poncho/liner combination and what I carry varies according to climate, environment, mission and so forth. Adaptations offer increased adaptability, modularity, insulation, sometimes superior materials and more but even the issue poncho and liner are an undeniably flexible bit of kit.
  • Insect Netting – I have suffered some nights of just indescribable discomfort for want of netting and repellent. With malaria, zika, west Nile and other serious arthropod-borne illnesses, it does not make sense to take chances. Add in that insect netting is lightweight and multi-use and it should find its way into your bag when you have room and headed anyplace you could find yourself in the middle of a hatch.

In a primitive setting, hammocks can sometimes be constructed of sufficiently strong natural materials. They can be woven from dried banana fronds (no banana hammock jokes please) or yucca fiber or green bamboo can be cut and split to make a hammock from natural materials.

Nest

A nest shelter is just what is sounds like. Imagine a bird’s nest, only large enough for one or more humans. Lemurs and hominid apes, including humans build nests. Gorillas build different nests for day and night with nighttime nests being more elaborate.

Day nests are typically on the ground, but night nests are sometimes in trees with building in trees being more common for juveniles, females and in high stress environments.

We humans often tend to ‘unlearn’ or bury our survival instincts, but no matter how much we suppress them, all the basics we need to survive are still in deeply imprinted in us. When I consider this, it is no surprise that we are drawn to natural settings.

Platform

A platform tree shelter is like a nest, only with a more engineered, flatter floor. Think “Robison Crusoe.” Platforms can be pegged, tied or notched together. Add some walls and a roof and you have a tree house or a hunting blind.

Tree Shelter Dangers

Survival requires a certain degree of risk management. Since there are a few dangers inherent to tree shelters, they should be weighed against other dangers before making the call to invest the energy and take the risk of building a shelter in a tree.

Widow Makers

Widow makers are dead branches or tree tops. They are so called because high and heavy-enough specimens sometimes inflict fatal wounds.

Critters

Trees should be inspected thoroughly for venomous arthropods, snakes and other potential threats/opportunities. Should you be so lucky as to find a half-dozen scorpions in your potential shelter, you just found some grub. Cut off their tails, roast them and pop the ‘land shrimp’ in your mouth. If you find a snake, then you will have a better meal.

Falling

It may or may not seem obvious, but falling even a couple of feet and hit your head on a sharp rock and no matter how bad your survival situation was, it just got worse. If the hardware holding your hammock gives way, you could just end up bruised and embarrassed, but you could also end up with skull fracture and a traumatic brain injury, depending on how you land. So, if you are thinking about saving a couple of bucks by purchasing carabiners stamped “Not for Climbing Use!”, you might want to rethink that and choose someplace else to economize.

Respiratory Dangers

Any tree that looks like it has the makings of a home for your, probably looked like a home to many animals that found it before you did. Unlike most humans, many species of animals urinate and defecate where they sleep.

This creates more of a danger than just foul smell, especially in dry climates and when bats are doing the defecating. Bat droppings are easily kicked up as dust and breathed into the lungs, where they can cause respiratory illness.

Fire

As with any debris shelter, fire is always a danger, but when you combine that with the fact that you are up a tree where your mobility is limited, and you are liable to fall, fire becomes even more dangerous. Outside a very narrow range of circumstances, keep your fire on the ground.

 Camouflage

Survivalists clearly have a thing for camouflage, so how could it possibly be a danger? Only when you are trying to be found. Debris shelters are notoriously difficult to spot since they are basically hunting blinds that blend perfectly with the environment.

If you want to be found, be sure to construct signals where they can be seen before you hole up or your chance to be found may stroll right on past.

This article has been written by Cache Valley Prepper for Survivopedia.



from Survivopedia
Don't forget to visit the store and pick up some gear at The COR Outfitters. How prepared are you for emergencies?
#SurvivalFirestarter #SurvivalBugOutBackpack #PrepperSurvivalPack #SHTFGear #SHTFBag

When Is Solar a Good Investment?

Written by Guest Contributor on The Prepper Journal.

We have all heard the “mantra” – “Solar power is the future” …“Solar power is the renewable energy source of tomorrow”….“Solar power will save you huge amounts of money on your electric bill.”

These are all familiar phrases and true for the most part, and as preppers we know that solar is a great help on many devices that can actually operate “off the grid”. And there are more devices coming out everyday that have solar as an option, along with old-fashioned hand cranks and, of course, rechargeable batteries that can be recharged through the included solar cells and, as a last resort, regular batteries as a limited-life back-up.

What you need to do when considering solar on a larger scale is to look at it as you would any investment. Like any investment, there are key factors which determine whether or not it is wise for a homeowner.

Can solar power save you big money? Absolutely, it can. Is renewable energy the wave of the future? I hope so. But is solar power right for you and your current situation? That can be determined through four key factors.

What Local Incentives are Available to You?

While solar energy companies report that it is being supported at the different levels of government “because of its environmental benefits”, the reality is that the support reduces their infrastructure investments to provide for their growing population, thus saving them money. While the results are the same, we here at The Prepper Journal like to keep the story straight. That said there are certainly those who are convinced it is only for the good of the planet. A win-win if it makes sense for the individual.

Many states offer incentives to homeowners willing to make the investment. Some states offer huge tax credits which partially offset the cost, while others allow you to sell excess power back the utility companies.

Before you decide whether solar power is right for you, it’s important to look at what your home state is offering as it varies from state and there are even some local government and utility company incentives as well. California, for example, which sees an abundance of sunshine, claims to have excellent incentives on the one hand, while their state legislature mandates changes, taxes and penalties to drive the use of solar power to be as regulated and controlled as everything else in its boundaries. Moderation only works in moderation.

Arizona, another place with endless sunshine allows homeowners to lease solar systems and, when the home is sold, gives the new owner the right to take over the lease at the current monthly payment, with a lot of prerequisites. Run from these deals. Leasing solar panels is more a business for investors to get a greater return on their investment dollars than spreading solar as an energy alternative. While it can support the latter claim, the rules for breaking a lease are mostly draconian and leaves you with additional costs when you sell, buy the home or replace the underlying roof. Don’t take any shortcuts in your due diligence here.  Florida homeowners receive a variety of special considerations when switching to solar, according to Residential Solar 101, Florida residents see:

  1.  Net Metering – A process in which a homeowner can sell unused power back to the grid in the form of credits, which they can call upon when needed in lieu of purchasing more power from the utility companies
  2. PACE Financing – This rolls the cost of a solar system installation into the home owner’s property taxes, allowing them to pay by installment over a period of 20 years.

When determining whether or not solar is a positive investment for you, make sure you check what your home state has to offer, as well as any local governments and the power company servicing the area. 

What are the Properties of Your Roof?

The make up of your home’s roof plays a key role in your ability to successfully install solar panels. The roof is the most ideal location for a solar system, but not all roofs are created equal. And there are alternatives to using the roof as you have seen before. No matter as the considerations should be used in any buy decision.

     

When you’re considering an investment in solar, there are a few roof related questions that you need to ask yourself.

  1. How old is the roof? – Make sure that the roof is in good condition. According to Solar-To-The-People the roof does not have to be brand new, but you should be comfortable with its durability. If you’re looking to replace your roof within the next five years, then solar will have to wait
  2. What is the roof’s orientation? – In a perfect scenario in the USA, the roof would be south-facing, though western and eastern exposure are also fine. Again Solar-To-The-People also recommends a 30-degree angle for prime ability to capture the sun’s rays, but anything from zero to 45 degrees is acceptable.

Is Your Property Shaded?

While a nice shady spot might be lovely on a hot summer’s day, shade is the truest enemy of solar power. According to SolarChoice.net, even a small patch of shade can throw off the efficiency of the entire system.

When shade is cast on even one panel, the system’s output is drastically thrown off. Power cannot flow into a panel that is being blocked by the shadow. A little shade is not a huge problem. Typically, installers can work around tiny patches of darkness. But when a majority of your roof is cast in the dark, your ability to maintain efficient levels of solar power diminishes.

When the home is using more power than the system can handle, electricity is pulled from the power grid. Most solar systems have to pull from the grid, at least a little bit. But when shadows block out a fair percentage of your system for a large chunk of the day, the savings ordinarily enjoyed by solar users dry up.

What Are Your Electric Rates?

It’s important to determine what you’re paying in energy costs to figure out how much you stand to save with solar. The national average cost of electricity is $0.12 per kilowatt hour (kW/h), according to NPR.

While that might be the average, the actual cost varies from state to state. Hawaii sees the nation’s largest cost at $0.33 per kW/h, while on the other side of the coin, Idaho is the cheapest state to power, charging only $0.08 per kW/h.

Now, if an average 250-Watt solar panel produces 30 kW/h per month, and you have 25 panels on your home, let’s see what those savings would look like. We’re going to assume these homes use the national average kW/h consumption of 897 kW/h.

State Cost Per kW/h Total kW/h Cost Pre-Solar Cost w/ Solar Savings
Hawaii $0.33 897 $296.01 $48.51 $247.50
Idaho $0.08 897 $71.76 $11.76 $59.97

As you can see, the Hawaiian home stands to save exponentially more, thus paying off the initial investment of their solar system installation much faster than the home in Idaho, with the same set-up. PowerScout has a much more thorough write up on Solar Panel Costs (if you’re interested in diving into it more.)

In 2018, most American homeowners are paying between $2.87 and $3.85 per watt to install solar, and the average gross cost of solar panels before tax credits is $16,800. Using the U.S. average for system size at 5 kW (5000 watts), solar panel cost will range from $10,045 to $13,475 (after tax credits). Using the graft above the savings in Hawaii will pay for the panels in 3-5 years, while the savings in Idaho will pay for the panels in 13 to 19 years.

Do Your Research

In conclusion, while solar can have fantastic benefits, both financially and environmentally, it takes a good deal of research to determine whether or not this is a wise move for you. Once you have all the information sitting in front of you, it will become clear whether or not now is the right time to invest in solar.

Follow The Prepper Journal on Facebook!

The post When Is Solar a Good Investment? appeared first on The Prepper Journal.



from The Prepper Journal
Don't forget to visit the store and pick up some gear at The COR Outfitters. How prepared are you for emergencies?
#SurvivalFirestarter #SurvivalBugOutBackpack #PrepperSurvivalPack #SHTFGear #SHTFBag

Thursday, January 18, 2018

The Worst 5 Things You Can Do When Threatened By Mudslides

Recently, Southern California has been being hit by a spate of deadly mudslides. Video available online shows rivers of mud careening down streets, carrying cars along in the flow. Twenty people have been confirmed killed and 28 injured, with 8 more people unaccounted for at the time of this writing.

While not on the top of most people’s disaster risk checklist, mudslides are extremely dangerous. We can see that by looking at what is happening in California. But as mudslides go, these have been rather minor. In 2010, a mudslide swallowed an entire town of 300 homes in the state of Oaxaca, Mexico, as people slept in their beds.

Rescue efforts were hampered by damage to the roads, which had to be cleared before workers could get to the town.

Mudslides, like avalanches, can happen very quickly, giving little to no notice. But that doesn’t mean that we never have any idea that a mudslide can occur. Certain conditions are required to cause a mudslide and those are well understood.

The technically name of a “debris flow” is probably a better description, than the more common term of “mudslide.” That’s because a mudslide will carry along any loose debris it can find. If you’ve ever seen a flood or a raging river, you should have a pretty good idea of the power that massive amounts of water can have.

Just turn that water into mud, which buries everything in its path, and you’ve got a pretty good idea of what a mudslide is, even if you’ve never seen one.

Video first seen on Fox News.

So what causes these natural disasters? As we all know, mud is made up of soil and water. What’s required to create a mudslide is lots of water and an area of loose soil that the water can soak into. If that area of soil is on a hillside and there’s nothing to keep it from flowing downhill, it can easily turn into a mudslide, taking boulders, trees and anything else it can find along with it.

The lack of anything to stabilize the mud is a critical component of mudslide formation. The roots of grass, trees and other plants do much to stabilize the ground and prevent erosion. When those are eliminated, there is little to ensure that a mudslide can’t happen.

So if you live on a mountainside or at the base of a mountainside, and the power company comes along and clears a swath of trees uphill of you, so that they can put in a new power line, you need to be aware that they may have just created the opportunity for a mudslide.

The same can happen in many other ways, such as if someone builds a home uphill from you. A forest fire can even create the conditions to make a mudslide possible, burning off the plant growth that stabilizes the hillside.

Of course, mudslides need a mountainside to form. So you’re not in much risk if you happen to live in the middle of America’s Breadbasket. But anyone who lives in mountainous areas or at the foot of a mountain should understand that mudslides are a very real risk. The steeper the mountainside is, the greater this risk becomes.

Be aware of the risk your home has of being caught in a mudslide. Look at what is uphill from you and how well the soil is stabilized. If you are unsure, ask for help from the U.S. Geological Survey or your county Geological Survey office.

They can tell you if your home is in a location with a potential for mudslides or not. Also keep your eye on any construction uphill of you, as that increases the risk.

What do You Want to Avoid?

Okay, so let’s say that you’re doing all that, and a mudslide comes. What sorts of things do you want to avoid doing, so that you don’t end up becoming one of those statistics?

Being Unaware

Awareness is the key to avoiding being caught in a mudslide. Not only do you need to be aware of whether or not you are in a mudslide-prone area, you also need to be aware of the weather. Mudslides need massive amounts of water to form.

They are typically caused by massive amounts of rain, such as that which a hurricane brings. That’s what happened in Oaxaca, Mexico. Rain from a hurricane pelted the mountainside, weakening the soil and eventually causing the mudslide.

3 Second SEAL Test Will Tell You If You’ll Survive A SHTF Situation

But rain is not the only weather condition that can cause a mudslide. The rapid melting of snow in the springtime can as well. In fact, any condition that can cause a flood, can also cause a mudslide. The only real difference is whether the water has enough dirt in it to turn it to mud.

A battery-operated NOAA weather radio will provide you with notification of any natural disaster, including the risk of mudslides. If a mudslide warning is given for the area in which you live, the best thing you can do is to put your bug out plan into effect.

Staying at Home

Mudslides are not the kind of disaster that you can count on riding out in your home, like some people try to ride out hurricanes. While the devastation caused by a mudslide is usually limited to a very small area, it is often total in that area. Several homes in California simply ceased to exist, when the mudslide hit them. There is just too much force in a mudslide for the average home to survive.

The other problem here is that mudslides happen rapidly. By the time you become aware that one is happening that could affect you, it is too late to evacuate. About the only thing that evacuation could possibly do is ensure that you are caught in the open, rather than in the relative safety of your home.

Sheltering in the Basement

With any mudslide, like any flood, you want to get as high as you can. The absolute worst place to shelter is in your basement or in an underground bunker. If the windows of your home break or if the mudslide manages to break through a wall, mud will begin to fill the basement, trapping you.

Can the mud break through a wall? Probably not… at least not by itself. But mudslides carry rocks, tree branches and even entire trees along with them. Those things can break through a home’s wall, even a brick wall when they hit with enough velocity.

If your home is two-storied, then shelter from the mudslide in the upper story, but don’t shelter in the attic, as you won’t have a means of escape. Even if your home is destroyed by the mudslide, chances are that the upper story will be carried away, floating on the surface of the mud. While that won’t be a fun ride, you should be able to survive.

Trying to Outrun it

You don’t want to be outdoors at all during a mudslide, unless you happen to be well away from where it is happening. Mudslides move rapidly, like an avalanche. There is no practical way you can count on outrunning it. Your only chance, if caught outdoors, is to find someplace to shelter. That means getting into a building and getting to an upper floor.

If you are forced to run, to get out of the path of the mudslide, then run crosswise, across the face of the mountainside. This will get you out of the path of the mud, raster than running downhill. The mud is going to take the easiest path downhill, so if you find yourself in a bit of a valley or canyon, try to get to a spot where you are on higher ground.

Going Back Home too Soon

Once the mudslide is over, our natural inclination would be to head right back home and see if our home has survived. If it didn’t, we’ll want to start salvage operations, finding what we can of our possessions, before it is too late. But that’s exactly the wrong action to take.

Remember, your life is worth more than any material possession that you own. Just because the mudslide has stopped, doesn’t mean that it is safe. Another mudslide can very easily follow the first, burying you, as you are trying to salvage your possessions.

Wait until officials tell you that it is safe to return to your home.

Preparing Your Home for a Mudslide

There isn’t a whole lot you can do to make your home more mudslide resistant. Your greatest protection isn’t the home itself, but where you have it located. If you’re looking to build or buy, take a critical look at the location, not only for protection from mudslides, but also from other potential disasters. Selecting the right location for your home or survival shelter can make a major difference in the home or shelter’s survivability.

If you already own your home and are concerned about the potential of a mudslide, you might want to consider building a concrete or concrete block retaining wall to help protect it. As you can see in the videos from the California mudslide, a normal fence isn’t going to do much to protect you.

But a well-built cement wall, with a firm foundation, can turn that mudslide aside, seeking a route around your property, especially if it is built at an angle to the natural flow of the mud.

Another useful home-building tactic, which can help with a number of different disaster scenarios, is to have your home’s plumbing and lines modified to have flexible fittings. PVC pipe is already somewhat flexible, but PVC connectors aren’t. Flexible connectors can help ensure that your pipes don’t break, if you are ever faced with a natural disaster.

Finally, be ready to treat any injuries that family members and neighbors incur. A good trauma first-aid kit and the knowledge to use it properly, can save lives. No matter how quickly rescue workers can get there, you’re already there.

So whatever first-aid you can render, will increase an injured patient’s chances of survival.

This article has been written by Bill White for Survivopedia.



from Survivopedia
Don't forget to visit the store and pick up some gear at The COR Outfitters. How prepared are you for emergencies?
#SurvivalFirestarter #SurvivalBugOutBackpack #PrepperSurvivalPack #SHTFGear #SHTFBag

Is Bitcoin, or any Cryptocurreny for Preppers?

Written by Guest Contributor on The Prepper Journal.

Editors Note: Another guest contribution from Jim Watson to The Prepper Journal. The article contains the opinions of the author unedited. As always, if you have information for Preppers that you would like to share and possibly receive a $25 cash award as well as be entered into the Prepper Writing Contest with a chance to win one of three Amazon Gift Cards  with the top prize being a $300 card to purchase your own prepping supplies, enter today.

In recent months, one of the biggest news stories that has been sweeping the nation is the rising value of a “cryptocurrency” known as Bitcoin.  (Note: While Bitcoin, introduced in 2009 was the first, there are now more than 45 others listed by Wikipedia and literately a thousand or more others.) People who invested in Bitcoin early are now earning thousands of times what they invested in the system, even if they only began a few months ago.  It appears as though Bitcoin is gaining traction in the world of finance, as banks and other financial institutions are rumored to be investing in the cryptocurrency marketplace as Bitcoin grows in popularity.

Is Bitcoin something for Preppers to consider?  Perhaps.  Each person will have to make their own decisions about investment, and that’s certainly what Bitcoin is, but for all of it’s non-traditional and “get rich quick” appeal, the idea of cryptocurrency has some very appealing aspects for preppers.  It is not government controlled, it has a history of maintaining and growing it’s value, and it may signal a major shift in how money works.

What is Bitcoin?

If the concept of cryptocurrency seems foreign to you, then you’re not alone.  While Bitcoin technically was invented almost ten years ago, it’s not until recently that the majority of people started hearing about it.

Bitcoin was invented as an alternative to government issued money – a true “peer-to-peer” transaction with no involved third party.  Your paper money, and whatever you have stored in the bank, is obviously government issued, but it’s something that only has value so long as your home country is a trusted, respected, and a financially viable nation.  Take a look at your old American History textbooks, and you’ll note a large number of financial catastrophes related to currency losing value during the fall of the Confederacy and during the period of the Articles of Confederation.  Money that was issued by failing governments lost all value, and lost it quickly, leaving those in possession of it with nothing.

Bitcoin, on the other hand, is specifically designed as a non-government controlled currency, never to be issued in physical form, that can ideally be used to pay for any online transactions.  In that way, even if your country’s government fails, if you have Bitcoin, you can still redeem it for goods and services, assuming that Bitcoin itself holds any value.  It is, at the time of this writing, very easy to exchange Bitcoins for quite a bit of money, as there are a lot of people willing to purchase them.  Online merchants have not gotten entirely on board with Bitcoin yet, although many have dabbled in accepting direct Bitcoin transactions, and more will likely accept Bitcoin as a form of payment as it becomes more requested.

That said, because Bitcoin is fairly new, quite misunderstood, and on the verge of being a fad, there is little price stabilization in the market for this new currency.  You could purchase Bitcoins for multiple thousands of dollars today just to wake up tomorrow and find that it’s worth nothing, or worth millions of dollars.

Preppers have traditionally invested in silver and gold as ways of diversifying their investments, and certainly, in an SHTF situation, it will certainly be better to have the physical assets that these precious metals have rather than a digital currency we may have no access to.  In almost all circumstances, however, the investment in Gold and Silver is about diversifying your assets, and Bitcoin is certainly another option for diversification, particularly if you think that digital is going to be the future.

How to Earn Bitcoins

It’s certainly possible to purchase Bitcoins from currency exchange markets if you want to invest money in the coin, however, it’s probably not the most cost-effective way to purchase an investment in Bitcoin.  With prices in the multiple thousand dollars for a single coin, it’s difficult to justify the price.

What makes Bitcoin perhaps most interesting is that you don’t need to invest anything in the market to begin to build your Bitcoin bank account.  All cryptocurrency can be “mined” using simple software programs on any computer or device (even your smartphone can run a mining program if you want).  The concept of mining is far too expansive to cover in the context of a single article, as books have been written on the subject, but suffice it to say, that what you’re doing is directing your computer’s processing power into solving vastly complex math questions. The purpose of doing this allows Bitcoin transactions to be verified by everyone who is mining the data, and in return for the service of verifying transactions, you can earn a small fraction of the coin that can be delivered to your own wallet.  In other words, for the computing resources you’re devoting to secure the transactions of others, you get a small amount of your own coin.

Is it too late?

Has the bubble burst on Bitcoin?  Perhaps.  On December 8th, 2017 one Bitcoin was worth more than $18,000, a far cry from the $800 it was worth in just January of this year, or the $.0003 it was worth shortly after its inception.  The volatility in pricing has caused a few online merchants to stop accepting Bitcoin, although this may simply be temporary.

However, as Bitcoin gains popularity, it becomes less and less viable for common users to begin mining Bitcoins, because the sheer volume of people maintaining the network has increased.  It is now nearly impossible for a solo-user to mine Bitcoin successfully because it requires so much processing power, and because companies in other countries, particularly China, have almost monopolized what it’s possible to mine.  It’s estimated that if you purchase a $2,000 computer specifically for the purpose of mining bitcoins, you can make only earn .12 Bitcoins per month, running that computer 24 hours per day.  As more users begin to mine, that figure will decrease.

After considering all resources, including electricity, hardware, software and transaction fees, mining Bitcoin might not be a good first starting place.  It is possible, however, to mine other cryptocoins – the fewer miners a cryptocurrency has, the more coins you can earn with limited processing power – and there may be some value in other coin.  Because of the wild price swings in the Bitcoin market, many users are con other already existing “Altcoins” and new currencies that have new security features.  Litecoin, for example, is worth $145 at the time of this writing, and Ethereum is worth $464.

If cryptocurrency is something you think you want to explore, make sure to do a lot of research.  Purchasing and using a cryptocurrency mining computer is a big decision, and one that should not be taken lightly.

Overall

Preparedness is about being ready for anything, even if that “everything” is something like a national or global shift to a new type of currency.  If this happens, your American dollars might be completely worthless, with little to no warning about the impending change.  As written just after the Civil War, the exchange rate of Confederate to Union money was “Early 1863, 4 [Confederate dollars] to 1 US Dollar.  After Chancellorsville, 6 to 1.  A week after Gettysburg 10 to 1.  December 1864, 30 to 1.  January, 1 1865, 60 to 1.  A week later 70 to 1.  After that, no one interested.”

Can you imagine having nobody interested in accepting your money?  I can, so I’m starting to invest very lightly in some cryptocurrency, just to be prepared.

Follow The Prepper Journal on Facebook!

The post Is Bitcoin, or any Cryptocurreny for Preppers? appeared first on The Prepper Journal.



from The Prepper Journal
Don't forget to visit the store and pick up some gear at The COR Outfitters. How prepared are you for emergencies?
#SurvivalFirestarter #SurvivalBugOutBackpack #PrepperSurvivalPack #SHTFGear #SHTFBag

Wednesday, January 17, 2018

Would Your Children Survive On Their Own?

little girl survival preppingWe’ve all read about the street children in Argentina after the economic collapse there, who wander the streets begging, stealing and scrounging through trash to survive.

Many were forced into child labor and prostitution.  Some of their own parents that could not support them or worse exploiting them for their own gain. In many ways, children suffer most from a disaster.

In the aftermath of the 7.0 Earthquake that shook Haiti on Tuesday, 12 January 2010 many children become parent-less. We have seen the same thing happen to children in Sri Lanka after the tsunami on Sunday,...

Read the whole entry... »



from TheSurvivalistBlog.net RSS Feed
Don't forget to visit the store and pick up some gear at The COR Outfitters. Are you ready for any situation?
#SurvivalFirestarter #SurvivalBugOutBackpack #PrepperSurvivalPack #SHTFGear #SHTFBag

After Market Upgrades Springfield Mil-Spec 1911-A1. Yes Or No?

Before you even begin comparing a bare bones Springfield Mil-Spec 1911-A1 Pistol with an upgraded version it is important to know what purpose you have for the gun. Invariably, some upgrades are more suited for self defense while others are better for target shooting.

If you don’t know how each upgrade changes the gun’s capacity to shoot accurately, reliably, or in small groups, it is all to easy to wind up with a weapon that doesn’t meet your needs. Have a look at some of the most common upgrades and how they change the functionality of the base weapon.

The Springfield Mil-Spec 1911-A1 pistol makes a good platform to be modified for personal defense (combat) or the target use. You must do your research to determine which upgrades will be the best for the project. Usually, the less you do to the weapon at one time, the better the results.

It is best to try out each change to see how it works before moving onto something more complicated. The last thing you want to do is to get carried away on the upgrades and end up with a pistol that is worse than the base design you started with.

Starting With an Older Base Model vs a Modern One

For most people the simpler service grade options are usually the best. Most people don’t need to spend thousands of dollars to upgrade this weapon in order to get the best possible self defense gun.

In most cases, you can shoot well, accurately, and reliably with no changes to the base model regardless of its manufacture date. Historically, and in my opinion, the Springfield Mil-Spec 1911-A1 is the best service pistol you can find. It is built from good quality materials and was made to last a long time under heavy usage.

Since new and old versions of this pistol are designated as a combat design out of the box, they already has the following features:

  • The main spring is arched instead of flat.
  • The trigger pull is short.
  • This gun is designed to shoot fast and still remain easy to control.

Insofar as sights, the models used on earlier versions of the Springfield Mil-Spec 1911-A1s were primitive when compared to newer designs. They will still work on these older weapons if you are planning to shoot in ranges from 7 to 50 yards, and at a slower pace.

Unfortunately, if you need to shoot fast, these sights can be harder to line up. Fortunately, modern Springfield Mil-Spec 1911-A1 pistols use high profile sights that correct this problem.

When looking at older models of this weapon, you will find that they were a lot looser than today’s versions. You can expect some lateral play in the slide as well as some rattling when the gun is shaken. These sounds have no meaning since the barrel bushing and the barrel lugs are tight enough for fair to good accuracy.

Newer versions of this gun are tighter than the average older models, and there is very little lateral play in the slide. However, the barrel bushing is only finger tight and similar to the older models.

Click here to get your guide to a layered survival defense!

It should also be noted that older versions of the Springfield Mil-Spec 1911-A1 pistols have a trigger pull of around 7 pounds. If you do not want such a heavy trigger, than the newer models that have only a 4.5 trigger will be more to your liking; especially if you are interested in firing quickly and accurately.

In fact, the improved trigger action and better sights make the newer version of the Springfield Mil-Spec 1911-A1 a better investment out of the box, especially if you need more time to think about appropriate upgrades.

Unlike other modern 1911-A1 Mil-Spec pistols, modern Springfield 1911-A1 Mil-Spec pistols utilize a heavy firing pin spring and a lightweight firing pin instead of a firing pin block or drop safety. Aside from being a very safe system that works well, you will also have 4 less parts to deal with than in a model with the Series 80 firing block system.

Popular After Market Parts and Machining for Combat Upgrades

To begin, the Springfield Mil-Spec 1911-A1 only came with rear cocking serrations on the slide. Adding front cocking serrations is a good upgrade to the slide that will make cocking the pistol easier. While you are having the serrations added, do not forget to have the sharp edges removed from the slide.

This will reduce the risk of your hand being cut if it gets in the way of the slide as it recoils backward. Here are some other upgrades to consider:

Enlarge the injection port and teardrop it

Smaller ejection ports on older Mil-Spec 1911-A1s made them less reliable. Enlarging the injection port on older models will make them as reliable as modern models that already have larger ports. Teardropping the ejector port makes it easier for the weapon to eject the brass because it enables the slide to strike the cartridge lower on the brass, which reduces the risk of a stove pipe malfunction.

Sights

Fixed sights are much more rugged and will last longer than adjustable sights on a combat 45 ACP. Remove and replace old rear and front sights with a low profile Novak style front and rear sight system. The front sight should be properly silver soldered into place so it will not come loose and fly away during shooting. These sights are snag free with the rear sight being adjustable for windage. They both have tritium inserts for low light shooting situations.

Match Barrels and Bushings

Match barrels and bushings can give you a good increase in your pistol’s accuracy. It is usually done on more advanced pistols. I would recommend it on any combat pistol.

Throating

Most Springfield Mil-Spec 1911-A1s without a match barrel and bushing require throating and matching of the feed ramp to the barrel for any ammunition except hardball. Throating of the barrel and polishing the feed ramp in the frame are good ideas to have done to keep your Springfield Mil-Spec 1911-A1 pistol from having failure to feed problems.

Guide Rods

Shorter guide rods can be disassembled easier and faster. It also allows for an instant press check to see if the pistol is loaded. On the other hand, upgrading to a one or two piece full length guide rod increases accuracy and smooths out the action.

While a two piece guide rod is easier to disassemble than a one piece, it requires an Allen wrench to loosen and separate the recoil spring guide. I prefer the full two length guide rods because they are easier to use and improve the gun’s performance.

Recoil Springs

Installing a slightly heavier recoil spring is one of the best upgrades for your weapon. Try an 18 ½ vs the 16 that most Springfield Mil-Spec 1911-A1 45ACP pistols come with. The heavier spring offers a little more power when chambering a round.

Firing Pins

Springfield uses special undersized titanium firing pins in their Springfield Mil-Spec 1911-A1s. This is because of the California drop test. Since there is less mass, the gun is less likely to fire if dropped. For your safety, stay with the original firing pins. Don’t change them to steel firing pins!

Stippling on the forestrap gives you a firmer and more secure grip than on the normal bare frame. This will go a long way to improving accuracy. A firmer grip also reduces the chance that your hand will slide up and hit the slide as it recoils.

Funnel the Magazine Well

All magazine wells that bolt on to the bottom of the Springfield Mil-Spec 1911-A1s and the Single action magazine well/main spring housing should be custom fitted to the frame by a competent gunsmith. This upgrade makes it easier to insert a magazine during speed reloading or when your eyes are on the target.

Grip Safety upgrade

The original GI grip safety needs to be replaced with a larger full sized beavertail safety. This larger safety helps to spread the recoil over a greater area and gives the shooter a better initial grip on the pistol. Even a properly dehorned standard grip safety can still do damage to the shooter’s hand when it rides up the frame and gets cut by the underside of the slide.

Trigger, Hammer, Sear and Disconnector – Use match grade triggers, hammers, sears, and disconnectors when upgrading these parts. They are better manufactured, which gives the pistol tolerances a good tight fit. When the fittings are tighter, all of the parts return the same place after each shot. This makes it easier to make tighter groupings during combat shooting.

Trigger

There are two parts to a trigger upgrade to solve problems. The first is the length of the trigger, and the second is the weight and the crispness of the pull. The trigger length is the relationship between the size of your hand and the length of your fingers.

Your trigger finger pad should be square on the front of the trigger otherwise you will pull to one side. It’s to your advantage to try both the long and short triggers, then choose one that fits you the best. The Springfield Mil-Spec 1911-A1s uses a rounded cross section at the front which makes the trigger pull feel heavier.

These GI triggers should be replaced by a commercial trigger.

If your pistol has a crisp trigger pull between 4 and 4 ½ pounds, then you don’t need a trigger job. Trigger pulls less than 4 pounds should be avoided on a combat pistol because they are too light and can cause accidental discharges. After a trigger upgrade, do not release the slide with the slide stop.

This can jar the pistol and drop the hammer to half cock instead of full cock. When the slide is locked back and a new magazine is inserted. Cycle the slide as if it is in battery and this problem should not occur.

If you added an extended beavertail grip safety to your Springfield Mil-Spec 1911-A1 45ACP, you must either bob the hammer or install a Commander style hammer. The Commander style hammer is a loop or skeletonized lighter hammer which give it a faster firing cycle for the gun.

This hammer is less likely to get snagged on clothing when drawn form concealment. I personally would not use a bobbed hammer on this particular weapon because this modification causes the grip safety to be trimmed back considerably. This increases the risk that you might put your hand up into the slide when grabbing the pistol.

Change the Slide Release

There are three types of slide releases; standard, tactical, and extended. It is up to individual taste and whether or not you can operate the release without the extensions. If you choose to use the extended slide release, it can be dangerous because they can extend back nearer to the thumb and can be engaged by the thumb in recoil.

Change Safety to a Extended (Tactical) or Ambidextrous Safety – As a responsible and safe gun owner, you should never take the safety off your loaded weapon unless you have a need to. Unfortunately, the safety on the standard Springfield Mil-Spec 1911-A1 45ACP can be missed in both practice and active shooting situations.

In a dangerous situation, the panic alone can spell disaster. The extended safety gives you a shelf to rest your thumb on when shooting, which can help improve accuracy. The tactical and ambidextrous safeties can reduce the risk of missing the safety when you need to shoot the gun.

Since the thumb safety can get bumped into the on safe position, having a shelf to rest you thumb on can help eliminate that problem. I personally like and use the tactical safety because it is wider than the standard safety which makes it easier to use and locate when needed.

Some shooters also prefer to have the safety to be accessible from both sides of the pistol. This can be helpful if you are a left handed or an ambidextrous shooter. Others feel the ambidextrous safety is important because it makes it possible to take off the safety with your left hand if the right hand or arm is injured.

Polishing of the Feed Ramp

Polishing the feed ramp in the frame helps the pistol to feed better, which reduces the risk of having the bullet jam. This is an essential and important upgrade.

Grips

Upgrading the pistol’s grip is is a personal choice. The grips can be made of wood, antler, rubber, or any other material of your choosing. The most important factors are they must fit the gun, your hand, and they are comfortable to shoot with.

In conclusion, The Springfield Mil-Spec 1911-A1 is an excellent platform for upgrading into the combat pistol of your dreams. The original Springfield Mil-Spec 1911-A1 is a good pistol for a basic self defense weapon, but can be made even better with certain upgrades.

You can turn it into an excellent custom pistol, but always keep in mind that not all upgrades are necessary let alone useful for your specific needs. In fact, if you make too many upgrades, you may find that it would have been cheaper to simply buy an already custom built combat 45ACP pistol from a leading manufacturer.

If you want to know more about how guns can help you keep your family safe, check out this survival defence program!

This article has been written by Fred Tyrell for Survivopedia.



from Survivopedia
Don't forget to visit the store and pick up some gear at The COR Outfitters. How prepared are you for emergencies?
#SurvivalFirestarter #SurvivalBugOutBackpack #PrepperSurvivalPack #SHTFGear #SHTFBag

Putting 2017 in the Rear-view

Written by R. Ann Parris on The Prepper Journal.

There’s no shortage of people who are delighted to put 2017 in the rear-view. I’m one of them. Mine doesn’t even revolve around politics or the major disasters that struck over the course of the year – and they were legion. I was lucky enough to weep only for strangers.

Mine comes from the repeated “small” one-two punches from nature. It was a tough year here, but it was only tough. We didn’t make national news (thank heavens). I am also lucky enough that, right now, I don’t need the things that were impacted. However, 2017’s local effects will resonate for years. As preppers, it makes a good case study. So…

Leading Up To 2017

I’m not “new” to my area even though I only moved back in 2016-2017. (Shoutout to my peeps – ‘twas BAD moving prepper+plants+animals…again.) With close family ties and multiple visits per season, I’ve stayed in touch with our lands.

Some of the property I acquired had actually been in our family up into my lifetime. It’s land I walked as a child and teen. I’ve been solely and actively managing some of it for 10-12 years. In some cases, I know it far more intimately. It’s where I finished growing up. I’ve visited for the 20+ years I was away. I’ve had my hands in that dirt and boots in those woods for most of my life.

Even when we intimately know our area and planting-harvest cycles and needs, nature can throw us curveballs. It doesn’t take a major disaster to wreak havoc.

The Opening Acts of “Nature’s Wrath-2017”

My area has been in a long drought. We set local records for droughts and heatwaves that finally ended in 2016. Soils and plants are still recovering. Domestic perennials that had been fine in past years and decades slowly failed or are stunted. The wild edibles and forage have shrunk in some cases, expanding in others, or disappeared entirely.

Then Winter 2016-2017 was a particularly weird one. It was plenty wet, but it never got really cold, and it didn’t stay cold long. The drought and the warm, wet winter combined to magnify some of the one-two punches 2017 delivered to our little neck of the woods.

The Main Events

Long-range forecasting held true for the back-end freezes and frosts leaving 2017. However, the last frost in spring is usually March 15-30.

It warmed then as usual. Then a 22-degree, three-day freeze hit us in late April.

Anything not covered froze. Now, thanks to our modern weatherman, we knew this was coming back at normal planting time. You can’t always adjust, though. See, autumn-sown wheat is the healthiest and highest-yielding here. There are also frost-sown peas and grains that had hit the soil in winter expecting the norms to hold true. You can’t cover whole fields.

Ignore the veggies. Ignore the delay in planting for spring-sown crops. I lost two-thirds of my usual calorie harvest 2-10” above the ground, frozen tips to roots. I wasn’t alone.

We already knew that some of the chill-hour dependent trees would be a wash entering 2017. Now we also had extensive damage to leaf and flower buds. Early-cropping berries were totally lost. In some cases, we lost trees and shrubs themselves, or they died back to the ground and will start almost completely over. Few here have smudge pots, fewer “enough”. Spraying only saved some from the freeze.

Nature followed with a one-two punch of month-long soaked periods.

The first, in late spring, was bad enough just delaying haying and planting, and from seed-crop loss. Then, straight-line winds barreled through. The sodden ground couldn’t hold. The whole area lost mostly the big, mature specimens – both evergreen and deciduous, in yards, in nut orchards, and in our woods.

The second period of constant wetness struck in normally dry August-September. That’s grain, bean, and oil seed harvest season. I had dry beans sprouting in the pods on the vines and sunflower seeds sprouting in the heads.

My usual harvest methods didn’t work, nor did my usual threshing. I had to find space to dry beans, grains, and oil seeds so they could be inspected for mold (sadly, I plant many dark and spotted pods). The labor alone impacted how much I could salvage. Tree and grass haying was nightmarish. We sheltered some, fermented some, rotated pasture faster (remember: hoofs/claws+wet = mudpit instead of field), gifted lots to neighbors, and left some to seed for wildlife.

Lingering Effects

2017’s pains aren’t limited to 2017. More things had to stay covered longer, and later. That delayed plantings where I needed the frost screen for pollination or pest prevention. Wet + heat = insect, bacteria, and fungi weather. Preventatives, treatments, and amendments had to be applied – repeatedly and far more often than usual, due to washout. That lowers those stocks, and creates soil vulnerabilities.

With the edible grains and legumes from the frost death and wetness, went seed for future planting. (The soaked seeds may have broken dormancy, and just not advanced enough to see splitting and dimples). I collected a tenth of the seed I anticipated for landrace projects. Luckily, growers harp “keep 2-4 generations of seed”. So I have backups, but no expansion planting on those fronts.

My Wounded Woods

Had 2017 been a “Bad Thing Happened” year where we lost purchasing capability as individuals or as a region/nation/world, culling and rationing would have gone into effect in June. See, it’s not just the ag side. My woods and river are impacted, too. My heart truly breaks for those places impacted even more.

There are some benefits, but it’s mostly future challenges. Timber, posts/rails, and firewood harvest will have some boom-bust, but that’s pretty easy to mitigate. My wildlife habitat took some nasty injuries, though.

That may sound like it’s solely yuppy-greenie-eco-freak nannying, but I use my wildlands. I harvest mast http://www.mast-producing-trees.org/2009/11/what-is-mast/ for birds and hoofstock. I hunt and forage those woods. Waterfowl and fish need the woods to keep the river and creek clear. Small birds, raptors, rodents, and cats provide pest control.

Future boom is coming, from all the growth that will spring up inside deer and rabbit reach in the next few years. However, there are a lot of pines, oaks, walnuts, pecans, elms and maples that didn’t drop seed this summer and autumn.

2017 was a boom acorn year where oaks still stand, happily, but trees we lost won’t yield anything in 2018, 2019, 2020… 2025… 2028… 2032… That’s going to affect the deer, turkey, squirrels, rabbits, quail, doves … although the latter might boom if enough there’s small seed perennials and grasses in the verges and openings.

A lot of young saplings came down with the behemoths, and won’t be standing for nibbling tips and stripping bark Winter-Spring 2018. A lot of mature-tree tips and buds won’t be feeding deer, raccoons, and porcupines. If too much of the young growth that’s standing now gets eaten as an alternative, it will take longer yet to get my woods back to former levels.

Change the Circumstances

Had my 2017 been everywhere, and 6 months into a widespread disaster, many preppers and survivalists would be in pretty dire straits – the homesteader types this first winter, spring, and summer, the survivalists maybe a little later depending on how hard-hit foraging, fishing and hunting already “was” at 2017’s opening salvo. Had January or March 2017 been the zero-hour for a disaster, many of them would still be in dire straits with the loss of farm and garden yields.

We can’t beat nature. We can prepare for her, though. The just “bad” years, anyway.

Our storage goals should cover not just to our planting season, not just to the following harvest season, but include a year when our staple grains and beans are lost, as well as the seed from them.

Ideally, we have alternatives, not just backups. Should drought, lingering spring wetness, or a late freeze a month removed from our averages and records hit us, alternative crops might not yield as much, but they will take some of the burden off our storage.

To prepare for insect hordes, summer-autumn floods, and early first frosts that may take our main harvests, we can stagger our plantings, and plant with a variety of harvest dates in mind. It can make crop rotations “funtastic”, but it’s workable.

We can also apply the cycles we see. Really bad single-year droughts seem to regularly be followed by crazy wet springs or really nasty winters that cling and hold on. Droughts and lingering wetness change the compositions of field and pasture, so we need to reseed that or be prepared to wait it out.

We know that drought means dry. Dry means increased fire risks, individual and widespread. We can increase our watchfulness.

A tangibly, visibly bad drought, a several-year drought cycle, or a wildfire uphill or upstream, and flash flooding and mudslides become pretty predictable. We may not know when they’ll hit, but we know it’s a risk, and can limit exposure to risk areas and prepare to evacuate in heavy rains.

If we’re planning to hunt and forage, knowing the patterns of nature and wildlife lets us anticipate the booms and busts. We can adjust what we take, when we take it, how much we take, and increase preservation of wild bounty to mitigate later disappearances.

Nature can be capricious. Surviving her “sudden” outbursts can be hard enough. Surviving when we depend utterly on her day-to-day mercy takes some planning, resilience, and perseverance. It can be done, however. We’ve just sometimes lost touch with how we did it throughout history.

We have time to learn right now, though. And, thanks to some of the technology that also makes us vulnerable and forgetful, we have a whole world’s resources to apply to preparing for it.

2017 in the Rear-view

I had nowhere near the tragedies that occurred in the rest of the world. I lost no family or friends. My home stands strong, whole, and warm. My hill and my river are not burned or buried under mud. My town wasn’t endangered by wind, water, or warfare. No madman or terrorist put us in the news.

I do not make light of this year’s pains. The people affected by 2017’s human-caused and natural crises have my heartfelt sympathy.

It doesn’t take a single-point disaster, though.

Our local farmers took the same repeated hits I did. One re-tilled six times without a single market-sale or silo-filling yield to show for the expenditures in fuel, time, and seed … and now he must purchase what he didn’t harvest. Some had to sell off a chunk or whole herd because they can’t feed them this year. Some have to sell land they can’t afford without one harvest or another. Disasters were small, but disasters all the same. For every tree cutter banking overtime here, there were farm-related laborers with no work. Some have lost their homes.

For them, the world as they knew it has ended. A lot of people are in that position entering 2018.

2017 will continue to affect the road ahead. I am very, very, very grateful not to have been the victim of any of the heart-wrenching moments that peppered this year, all around the globe. She wasn’t just hardships for me, though. She was also learning opportunities, a chance to evaluate, and a reminder that I am just as vulnerable to the non-crisis disasters as I am the biggies.

So, I’m happy to wave bye-bye, but I owe her a thank you, too. My heart breaks for those to whom 2017 was not as kind.

Follow The Prepper Journal on Facebook!

The post Putting 2017 in the Rear-view appeared first on The Prepper Journal.



from The Prepper Journal
Don't forget to visit the store and pick up some gear at The COR Outfitters. How prepared are you for emergencies?
#SurvivalFirestarter #SurvivalBugOutBackpack #PrepperSurvivalPack #SHTFGear #SHTFBag