Saturday, July 22, 2017

Prep Blog Review: 5 Survival Lists To Keep On Hand

Everybody uses lists, it’s a fact. Whether we like it or not, we need them to keep things organized, or to remember and prioritize activities. You can’t skip them while prepping, so let’s make use of them here too.

I’ve gathered a few tops and lists to remember about different aspects of prepping, after stumbling upon other survival websites this week. And what do you think I’ve came up with in the end? You guessed: another list. Here it is!

3 Incredible Stories of Survival: What We Can Learn From 3 Men Who Beat All the Odds

“Hello, my friend and welcome back!  Today I have a great post for you from Chris Browning and it’s a good one.  He is the editor of Gun News Daily – www.gunnewsdaily.com.  It’s longer than what I usally post,  but well worth the effort.  The best way to learn to survive is to learn from those who have had to fight to survive already. Their stories and insights provide the best training you can get.  Grab a cup of coffee my friend and have a seat while we visit.”

Read more on American Preppers Online.

23 Herbs and Veggies You Can Grow on Your Porch

“Urban gardening is all about making the most out of the space you’ve got. All it takes to turn your outdoor balcony or back porch into a full-on garden is a pinch of creativity and a dash of strategy.

Rather than planting one crop in one small pot, we are going to focus on planting multiple crops in one sizeable pot. This method makes the most of your space and gives you the most variety of veggies and herbs possible.”

Read more on Urban Survival Site.

19 Survival Uses for Plastic Bottles

“I must say that it saddens me seeing what humans have done to our planet.  Any time you find a water source, you will likely find trash scattered along the shore.

Often times this trash is going to be plastic bottles.  It seems to be the most common item to be tossed aside, especially in water.  This littler is absolutely destroying our planet.

However, one man’s trash is another man’s treasure.  I cannot tell you how many times I have used garbage in the wild to get through survival situations.  Plastic bottles are one of the most common and most useful pieces of trash you will ever find for survival. I can assure you that we will show you enough uses for plastic bottles that you will think twice about walking past one in the wild.”

Read more on Modern Survival Online.

16 Things to Stockpile for the Next Blackout

Major blackouts are more common now than ever before. Most of us have experienced a blackout for a few hours. A blackout is a power outage that can range from a few hours to months. They might happen because of a major storm, a hurricane, a transformer blowing, or other issues. It is a good idea for everyone to stockpile things for the next blackout.

You might be new on your preparedness journey or find it strange to prepare for an entire year without power. No matter where you are on your journey, I encourage you to prepare for at least a two-week period without electricity. Why? There are dozens of examples of this happening. If you live along the coast, a major hurricane can wipe out the power grid for multiple weeks. Earthquakes, major storms, and blizzards all frequently cause blackouts. Everyone is at risk.”

Read more on Survival Sullivan.

6 Principles of Survival – Maintain Core Body Temperature

“Shelter and Fire are ONE.  Long term survival requires the proficiency of both.  Maintaining Core Body Temperature is vital, and without shelter and fire the body is highly susceptible to hypothermia.

In this two part series we will look at the concept and application of Shelter and Fire. Maintaining a solid 98.6o will ensure your body does not become susceptible to hypothermia or hyperthermia.”

Read more on Survival School.

This article has been written by Gabrielle Ray for Survivopedia.



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Friday, July 21, 2017

Calling ALL Contributors!

Written by Wild Bill on The Prepper Journal.

Editor’s Note: We are looking for new and varied entries for the Prepper Writing Contest. If you have information for Preppers that you would like to share and possibly win a $300 Amazon Gift Card to purchase your own prepping supplies, enter today.

As you know guest Contributors have added significant value to the site and to our followers. Like Rick, more of you have a following than you know and our readers are anxious to hear more, hear of new things and of old things that have proven themselves over time and practice.

We would like to suggest articles on long-term food storage system successes and yes, even failures as that is how most of us learn. Articles on vehicle spare parts and supplies you NEVER go 4-wheeling without? What tools can’t you survive without and what tools can fill more than a single function thus reducing weight in your bug-out supplies?

Going back to an article titled “Am I The Only One Who Saw “TERMINATOR”, published on January 20th of this year, new articles have been published this week on significant advances in AI (Artificial Intelligence) and by very reputable scientists who have linked the next steps to make a self-sufficient robot. Change is good, change is constant and change affects us all, so what changes concern you?

If you have submitted something in the last 60 days we are going through those now and we thank you and we will get those out ASAP. So don’t be shy, we thrive on diverse opinions and good ideas. And as always, THANK YOU!

 

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What Did You Do To Prep This Week?

Good morning folks or afternoon, or evening, depending on when you’re reading this weeks awesome “what did you do to prep this week” segment.

But before we get started I’d like to thank everyone who has sent me emails to let me know how much that they are enjoying my new prepper news website at MDCreekmore.com. Your kind words and suggestions are appreciated. It’s still a work in progress and one that I’m doing my best to make a one stop source for everything that’s important each day.

If you’ve been reading this site...

Read the whole entry... »



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Survival Guns: Q&A On Deep Cleaning Your Ruger LCR

There is no such thing as a gun that does not need routine cleaning and maintenance. You can count on Murphy’s law to render your gun useless at the worst possible moment unless you take good care of it.

Even when a gun is in storage it should be cleaned and lightly oiled a couple of times a year. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

But how often is often enough? Many people still have questions about cleaning their guns, and our reader T. – who owns a Ruger LCR – is only one of them. Keep reading to get the answer!

“How often should I send my Ruger 357mag LCR (5-shot) to the factory to be deep cleaned, inspected, parts replaced as necessary?  I really don’t want this job and quotes seem reasonable under $100. I shoot ~10min/week or  9hrs/year mostly HSM .357 Mag, 125 Grain JHP Ammo. Asking b/c my 6.5 year old Glock 27 acting up so had to send it in recently. 

Best, T.”

The Ruger LCR (5 shot) in .357 Magnum was designed primarily looking for a light weight, compact, easy-to-conceal revolver for self defense. Each time you fire your revolver, it must be cleaned and examined for signs of excess wear and tear.

Cleaning the revolver removes bullet and powder residue from all cylinder parts, the action, and the barrel in revolvers, while lubrication helps to keep the revolver operating smoothly without binding up or freezing under heavy use.

While the Ruger LCR can shoot 125 grain magnum ammo, I don’t recommend using this weight constantly because it puts a lot of wear on the internal parts. Not only will you have to deep clean the gun more often, it will more than likely wear out in just a few years.

For range practice I would recommend shooting either 38 Special or .38 Special + P ammunition. This will keep the wear and tear down to a minimum.

Finally only shoot a few .357 Magnum rounds (5 to 10) every 2 – 3 months to keep you in practice with the recoil and the muzzle flash – both of which are more intense with this revolver than they would be with a heavier weapon.

Click here to get your guide on how to build your layered survival defense!

Simple Wipe Down Cleaning For the Ruger LCR

If you don’t wish to clean your revolver at the range after shooting, at least wipe down all exterior parts of the revolver.

This will remove powder residue and finger oils that can cause your weapon to start rusting. This is only a quick fix and a standard cleaning should be done as soon as possible.

Standard Cleaning of a Ruger LCR Revolver

  1. Always open the cylinder and make sure there are no bullets in it.
  2. Be sure you have all of your cleaning supplies together where the revolver cleaning will take place.
  3.  Tie a clean, soft cloth or rag around the rear cylinder opening. This will prevent the revolver from being damaged while you are pushing the bore brush through the barrel. It will also keep dirt from the bore brush from getting into that area.
  4. Choose the correct size bore brush and dip it in cleaning solvent.
  5.  Insert the bore brush into the front of the barrel. Continue feeding until it passes through the barrel and exits the other end. Then pull the cleaning rod back through the barrel and out the muzzle. Sometimes if the barrel is really dirty, I will repeat dip the bore brush in solvent again to finish removing the fouling.
  6. Next dip a fresh cleaning patch in cleaning solvent. Then run it down the barrel from the muzzle to the cone of the barrel. As a rule of thumb I use one solvent covered patch, and then follow it up with 2 or 3 dry patches. Keep doing this until the dry patches come out clean. After the barrel is cleaned, remove the rag covering the rear cylinder opening.
  7. Clean around the muzzle with a small toothbrush or gun cleaning brush. Next, put some solvent on the brush and clean the rear cylinder opening.
  8. Use the toothbrush with a little more solvent on it and brush the cylinder on the outside and on each end.
  9. Next, use a small cleaning brush or tooth brush and solvent to clean the extractor rod. Be sure to clean the front, back, and outside of the cylinder. Push in the cylinder extraction rod, and clean the star. Do not forget to clean the rest of the rod that was sitting between the cylinders.
  10. Take a bore brush and cleaning solvent to clean each of the cylinders the same way you cleaned the barrel. Don’t forget to go all the way through on each side of the cylinder.
  11. To clean each individual cylinder, first use a clean patch with solvent followed by 2-3 dry clean patches to remove any residue.
  12. Get another clean cloth and apply some gun oil to it. Use this to wipe down the outside of the revolver without oiling the grips. Then oil the inside of the barrel and each of the cylinders.
  13. Wipe off all excess oil with a clean rag. Don’t forget to oil the ejection rod and ejector. Use just a drop of oil, and work the rod a few times to spread the oil.
  14. Finish the cleaning process by using a silicon gun cloth to polish up the gun.

How to Lubricate the Ruger LCR revolvers

Each time you do a standard cleaning, or deep cleaning for the Ruger LCR, you should also take the time to lubricate the following parts.

Start off by lubricating the cylinder and the ejector:

  1. Apply lubricant to two spots only. First, apply a small drop on the ejector where it contacts the cylinder, then work it in.
  2. Next put a small drop on the crane pivot and clean off the any excess.
  3.  Wipe off any excess lube, wipe down the entire, revolver and use compressed air to clean out and dry the firing pin channel.

Hammer pivot pin lubrication

Ruger recommends that you lube the hammer pivot pin every 1,000 rounds of live fire or dry firing.

  1. After you are sure the revolver is unloaded, remove the grip with a 1/8” or smaller punch and a small hammer.
  2. Open the cylinder then tap the pin out just a bit .10” (taking care not to push it out too far).
  3. Put one drop of lube in the pin hole and then flip it over and put one drop of lube on the pin itself. To help spread out the lubricant, twist the pin back and forth.
  4. After you have pushed the pin back in, Ruger recommends that you dry fire the revolver 5-10 times to work the lubrication into the action. Use snap caps for dry firing.

Crane pivot screw and fire control housing retaining screw torque check

Ruger recommends this be preformed every 1000 trigger pulls dry fire or live fire.

  1. To keep the screws from losing there torque setting I would recommend using lock-tight.
  2. For this procedure you will need a torque wrench that reads inch lbs. and a T10 Torx bit.
  3. The fire control housing screw torque settings are 6-9 inch lbs.
  4. The crane pivot screw torque settings are 23-27 inch lbs.
  5. After everything is properly torqued. Re-install the grip.

5 Deep Cleaning Q&A for the Ruger LCR

1. What is Deep Cleaning?

Deep cleaning is the total disassembly, and thorough cleaning of a firearm. If your firearm is used heavily, a more through disassembly and cleaning should be performed. This will extend the life of the weapon, and also ensure that it fires correctly each time you use it.

2. What are the signs that a gun needs deep cleaning?

  1. Trigger has trouble operating the cylinder.
  2. Trouble opening the cylinder.
  3. Misfires when trigger is pulled.

3. How often should you do it?

  1. After shooting about 500 rounds of cheap dirty ammunition.
  2. Have not fired the revolver in more than a year.
  3. The revolver has fallen in either salt water, or dirty fresh water.

4. Is this a good time to have your firearm inspected?

Yes! It is always a good time to inspect the Ruger LCR when they are totally disassembled as you can see the parts easily and examine them.

5. What are the costs to have your firearm deep cleaned and inspected?

Prices will vary depending on where you live and the fees set by each gunsmith. They can range anywhere from $50.00 and up plus the cost of the replacement parts and their hand fitting if necessary.

If you send your Ruger LCR to Ruger for deep cleaning and inspection, the cost may be more than having a local gunsmith do the work. As per the Ruger website, The average cost would be:

  1. $85 for reconditioning – Replacement of worn internal parts (does not include main components).
  2. $80 Labor charge.
  3. Cost of parts.
  4. $30 Return mail fee.

How to Do a Deep Cleaning on a Ruger LCR

Always take the time to read the manual that came with your revolver, and seek help from a gunsmith if you aren’t sure how to proceed.

Before you begin to do a deep cleaning and weapon inspection, be sure that you have all cleaning supplies and tools with you in the cleaning area.

  1. Make sure that the revolver is unloaded.
  2. Remove the grip screw and the grip.
  3. Use an air line or canned air to spray out the fire control housing and the trigger area to ensure that all dust and other debris are removed.
  4. Use a toothbrush or small gun cleaning brush soaked in solvent to scrub the forcing cone area to remove all build up. Take the time now to inspect the forcing cone area for any cracks or chips.
  5. Scrub the area under the ejector and firing pin area to remove all debris and build up. Now take the time to inspect the frame, ejector star, firing pin area, and the cylinder stop for wear and tear or broken parts.
  6. Perform a basic bore and cylinder cleaning by soaking the bore brush in solvent and scrubbing the bore and all five chambers.
  7. Run cleaning patches through them until they are clean.
  8. Wipe down the entire revolver to ensure it is clean and dry.

Ruger LCR Upper Frame Disassembly

  1. There are two screws that hold the assembly together. The first one out is on the trigger shroud top left side (beware the hex nut will fall out of the right side). The other screw is at the front of the revolver.
  2. Hold revolver in right hand to keep it together.
  3. Release and open cylinder.
  4. Remove front screw.
  5. Cylinder will come right out.
  6. Remove cylinder locking pin. Upper frame needs to be raised upward. Use paper clip to push pin out. Upper assembly will come apart. Cylinder latch will come up with it.
  7. Upper assembly will move forward and then you can lift it up and out.
  8. Latching assembly will be separated from the upper assembly. Do not loose the latching assembly spring! It is a very small and thin spring.
  9. Clean and inspect lower assembly for worn or damaged parts. The best way to clean the lower frame is to use a cleaning brush followed by using compressed air. This will remove any dirt or grime that found its way into this area.

Video first seen on Zolen Boogaerts.

Reassembling the Revolver

  1. Put cylinder latching assembly back in with spring facing forward. It will drop right in and catches in place. Warning! Do not lose the small spring!
  2. Re-install the cylinder latch pin.
  3. Put the top section back in the frame with the rear section corners pointing down. Then push backwards to let it slide back into place.
  4. Now hold the revolver in your right hand with the thumb and first finger at the back and the right hand middle finger pushing backwards on the trigger guard.
  5. With your left hand, put the top screw back in place to hold the upper assembly in place.
  6. Put the cylinder in place in the up position.
  7. Install front screw.
  8. Install hex nut in recess for the top screw and screw into place.
  9. Function test revolver by opening and closing the cylinder and pulling the trigger.

If you do not know how to clean your guns, you will be at a serious and expensive disadvantage now, and have many more problems in a social collapse scenario. Take your time now and learn how to clean your Ruger LCR, and practice your skills so you would be a better shooter.

A gun in perfect condition for shooting is one of the layers of your survival defense. Click the banner to find out how to build the rest!

This article has been written by Fred Tyrell for Survivopedia.



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Thursday, July 20, 2017

Just what is Backfeeding?

Written by Wild Bill on The Prepper Journal.

Earthquake, Southern California, sitting in my kitchen at 5:25 am I felt the roll, heard the house creek and crack and through my dining room window saw the transformer a few blocks away blow. Spectacular. It was over quickly, family was fine, house had no damage on a first look, and no electricity, or natural gas as I had a seismic shut off valve on the gas line. This wasn’t my first rodeo. “Coffee!” I needed coffee so I went to the garage, got my portable camping stove, part of my survival gear, heated some water on it on the dining room table, pulled out the French Press…coffee!

Spouse got up about 20 minutes later, slid into a chair next to me and poured herself a cup and asked “why do we have a camping stove, we don’t camp”, we were newly married. I said nothing, just looked at her as her brain cells began to come on-line and a moment later I got a wry smile and an “oh.” From humble beginnings and knowing where I lived I started this journey and I became a believer in portable things. Especially portable generators as we slide down the food chain quickly without electricity.

No family home should be without one just as no home should be without a comprehensive first aid kit. Additionally, and equally, no one should have either unless they truly understand what each can do to both aide people and harm them.

While we could do a not-so-short course in electricity, circuits, breakers, grounds and phases herein, that information is on-line from reliable sources and I suggest a few hours of going through it would be time well spent for every building owner (home, office, plant, factory, etc.) You won’t pass any certification classes but you will be able to ask much smarter questions.

If you are thinking of installing a home generator as a backup system what I want to address herein is the dangers of not doing it right, specifically “backfeeding”. If you are just running some power strips off a well-ventilated fuel-powered portable generator things will work if you have enough extension cords to reach vital assets and you should pose no threat to yourself or others. Do be aware that in a SHTF situation the generator noise will expose your location. Prudent use and investing in some power storage systems will somewhat alleviate this exposure. There is a whole other post on these on this site and we will do an in-depth review of portable generators in the very near future.

However, if you are considering installing a stationary generator, what people do who plan to hunker down, to a home circuit panel you need to do it right or better yet, have it done professionally. Leaving every breaker on energizes the entire panel and power is distributed throughout the house, on all circuits. Only the largest portable generators (the word “portable” here being a euphemism) can supply enough power for an entire home, and the cost can be in the thousands of dollars. Do you need the A/C on (I ask this while living in Phoenix, writing this in the summer)? The pool pump? The washer and dryer, garage door openers, every flat-screen TV and game system? Does every room need power? You know the answer. Yes, for food storage, some outlets to charge batteries, cell-phones and electronics that link to the outside world, and any critical care medical equipment.  The rest is just fluff.

If your solution is to introduce a back-up generator through your homes electrical system, you will need to invest in a manual transfer switch which takes power from the generator and distributes it only to the branch circuits that were selected when the switch was installed. Each circuit has its own breaker, and electrical power is automatically confined to the dwelling. Paying a licensed electrician to do this is the only approach. This prevents “backfeeding” – accidentally powering the neighborhood utility lines coming into you home and endangering any utility workers, neighbors, etc. When you apply power to a circuit (your home electric panel) electricity flows to the path of least resistance, which, with no power coming from the utility lines, means they are a path of “least resistance” as they have no load on them, such as your refrigerator does on its circuit, so electric current flows from your house, back out to the power lines. In this “off and then ‘instant on’ with no warning” scenario the chances to injury or kill a utility worker are great, and you are liable (National Electric Codes 408, 702 and 225 provide strict guidance on the requirements of such generators.) Now multiple this across every home in an electrical grid and you will know why we should respect these guys (and girls.)

While one can argue that simply turning off some breakers helps to resolve this issue, it does so without balancing the loads across the circuits, and who wants to go out and pick and chooses those in real time?  Who knows how the circuits are set up in their breaker box in the first place? Preppers are planners and having this “locked down” is just good common sense. Identify the “must haves” and get a professional to hook up the system correctly. Ask way too many questions, write everything down and store the data with your survival kit. You will forget after time. Now, knowing this, would you ever touch a downed power line?

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California Wildfires: Lessons To Learn For Survival

Midsummer heat is here, along with the dry weather it creates. For those living in the mountains or near forested areas, this is the time of wildfires, and California is receiving their fair share this year.

As of this writing, forest fires in California are forcing thousands to evacuate. Nevada is chocking from smoke, while large fires are currently reported in 12 states, on the Western coast of US.

A striking disaster is an opportunity to learn lessons for survival. Keep reading to see what the lessons from the California fires are!

Most forest fires are caused by humans. People being careless with their campfires or tossing out a cigarette butt, without making sure the coal is put out. But some are caused by lightning, a danger that increase during and following times of drought.

After three years of drought, Southern California is especially susceptible.

Is depopulation the secret aim behind Southern drought?

Forest fires destroy thousands of acres of pristine forest throughout the western part of the country every year, causing people to be evacuated and their homes to be destroyed.

While firefighters work hard to put them out, stopping a forest fire is much harder than fighting a house fire. The massive amount of vegetation in the forest, which the fire can use as fuel, means that fires can spread easily and even bypass areas that firefighters thought were under control.

This year’s fires in California have caused thousands of people to evacuate, and some of whom will never see their homes again. The lucky ones will be able to return home after the fire is over, but others may lose everything they’ve worked for.

The fire is indiscriminate in choosing its victims, burning anything in its path.

Preventing Forest Fires

As Smoky the Bear was famous for saying, “Only you can prevent forest fires.” While fire is an amazingly useful tool, it is also a dangerous one, which is hard to control. Fire doesn’t obey mankind, it does what it wants, and what it wants is to consume fuel. So whenever we use fire, we have to be aware of the dangers and how to prevent them.

More than anything, this means only using fire where it is safe. Lighting a campfire in a fire pit made of steel or stone is fairly secure, especially if that fire pit is in a campground which is used by thousands of people. Any vegetation close to the fire pit would have already been trampled into the ground, leaving the fire with nothing readily at hand, other than the fuel you feed it.

But that’s not to say that a fire in a fire pit can’t escape and turn into a forest fire; it can. That’s especially true if someone builds a massive bonfire, rather than a reasonable campfire. The bigger the fire is, the more chance there is of it getting out of hand. If it gets windy, sparks from that fire can be blown over 100 feet, landing far beyond the campsite and possibly right on some dry grass.

Great care must be taken with any fire, not just campfires. The number one cause of home fires is cigarettes. Those same cigarettes, dropped on the ground in the wrong place, can soon grow into a blaze, consuming everything is in its path.

People who live in the woods need to take extra care, as they not only have more opportunity to start forest fires, but are more likely to suffer from the fire itself.

Clearing land around their home may not make for the most attractive setting, but it could protect their home from being consumed, if a forest fire ever encountered it. But it needs to be a wide clearing, especially on the upwind side, as that is the fire that the wind will try to blow the fire across.

Awareness and Preparation are the Key

Being constantly aware of the fire you have lit is important to protecting our forests. But that’s not the only fire you should keep aware of.

Forest fires can be started by anyone, and the more notice you have of one coming, the greater your chances of survival are. If you can smell or hear the fire, it’s already too late; you’ve got to move. But if you receive the news early, you have a better chance of not only leaving, but taking necessities with you.

But there’s a better fire alarm than your own senses; that’s the animal life around you. Animals will notice a fire long before you do and will instinctively run from it. So if you see a variety of different animals fleeing in one direction, there’s a good chance that there’s a fire coming up behind them.

A forest fire is nothing to fool around with. That’s why you must have your bug out bags packed and your car ready for travel at all times. While most of us believe in bugging in whenever you can, this is one scenario where bugging in is just too risky.

Unless your home is built with hundreds of feet of rock all around it, you should evacuate as soon as possible.

Match Your Movement to the Fire

One of the most important pieces of information, for any forest fire, is the wind’s speed and direction. Fire will spread before the wind, so knowing the wind direction will tell you which way the fire is moving. Wind speed will give you an idea of how fast the fire is moving, as the stronger the wind is, the faster the fire will move.

Knowing the wind’s speed and direction will help you determine which way you should go, in order to get away from the fire. If you can see the fire itself, then you’re too close and want to move directly away from it, if the wind is coming towards you, flee before it.

Fire can move as fast as 10 miles an hour, which means you’re going to be hard pressed to stay in front of it. If the wind is moving away from you, then you have more time.

The best thing to do, if you have the time and distance to do it, is move across the fire. This will get you out of its path. As long as you are moving directly away from it, there’s a chance that it can catch up. But if you are moving across it or at an angle across it, you will eventually reach the edge of the fire and get out of the danger zone.

Hills and canyons affect a fire’s movement as well. The heat from the fire will cause it to move uphill faster than downhill. But moving uphill is slower and harder for you. So if you are caught on the hillside, with the fire below you, you need to get over the crest as fast as you can. In some cases, the fire will reach the crest and stop. But don’t count on that until you see that it actually has stopped.

Canyons and draws should be avoided at all cost, as they can act as a chimney, funneling hot air and smoke uphill towards you. While it might be easier for you to travel up a draw, it will also be easier for the fire to travel up that draw too. So there’s a much greater chance of it catching you.

Always watch out for burning tree limbs above you. At times, the fire will move faster through the treetops, than it does at ground level. So you could be perfectly safe on the ground, while the canopy above you is burning.

But if that’s the case, there’s a chance of a burning branch falling on you. Most firefighters who are killed in forest fires die in this manner.

Of course, travel in a vehicle is faster than traveling on foot, but you may not be able to. There are times when you may need to abandon your vehicle, and go on foot, simply because the way the road goes, you would be driving into the fire.

However, don’t abandon your car, unless you absolutely have to. It provides at least some protection from the fire. Better to take your sedan cross-country, ruining it, than to leave it behind and have both you and it burnt.

Forest fires can kill you one of three ways: heat, smoke or oxygen deprivation. It is doubtful that you will actually be burned to death, because you would die by one of these methods, if not all three, before the flames could reach you.

Finding a place where you can be protected from all three is not easy; but your chances are better the lower you are. So head for the flatlands, rather than the mountain peaks, if you can.

If You Can’t Escape

Hopefully you will never be faced with a situation where you are surrounded by the fire and can’t escape. But fires are largely unpredictable, so things like that can happen. If you find yourself in such a situation, your best course of action, even though it is a risky one, is to find someplace safe, where you can ride out the fire.

Before I go any farther, let me just be clear that there is no guarantee that you can ride out the fire safely. But if you’re going to be caught in it, your best chances are to choose the ground which will offer you the best chance of survival. Give yourself time to do that, as you are fleeing from it.

Obviously, you need someplace that will not burn, if you’re going to wait out the fire.

Keep in mind that sparks from the fire can leap 100 feet, so when you’re looking for a safe place, you want one that is more than 100 feet across. Even if it is only 110 feet, that allows you to be 100 feet away from the approaching fire, by staying close to the other edge of the safe zone.

So, what types of places are potential safe zones?

Water

Your absolutely best place to be, other than in another state, is in the midst of water. As we all know, water quenches fire, so there is no way that the fire can reach you, unless you leave a bridge between you and it. Getting a ways off shore in the water can provide great protection.

But this has its own dangers as well. Water will draw your body heat away faster than being in the air, creating the risk or hypothermia (the lowering of the body’s core temperature). So, if you’re going to be in the water, you need to watch how cold you are getting.

It’s important to remain reasonably close to the shore, preferably in water that is not so deep that you can’t touch the bottom. That way, you can get out easily if you need to.

If all you have is a mountain stream, use it. Find the widest place in the stream and lay down in the water, with only your face exposed. The water will protect you from the flames, even if you are only a few feet from shore.

Rocky Areas

The second best place is a rocky area or paved area. Roads may not provide a wide enough area to really provide excellent protection, but a road with a rocky area beside it might. A forest fire won’t burn the rocks, although if the flames lick the edges, they will scorch them.

Often these areas will still have some plant life growing in them. But that’s better than being surrounded by vegetation. You can easily stomp out a grass fire, if you’re wearing boots or sturdy shoes. But watch out for bushes, because they will burn rapidly.

Moving around the rocky area, as the fire burns around you, can be useful, especially if you can move away from the area that is burning the hottest. There will be more oxygen and less smoke in areas which are away from the main part of the fire. As the fire burns past, moving closer to the burned over area could get you to a cooler area, with more oxygen.

Holes in the Ground

Caves, culverts and other holes in the ground are excellent protection from fires. Since heat rises, fire always tries to go up. If you are below ground level, especially in a sheltered place, the fire could pass over and around you, without touching you. You’re also likely to find more oxygen at that lower elevation, than you would on the ground around the hole.

Short Grass

Any grass can burn, but short grass will have a smaller flame. That might not seem like a safe place, but if it’s all you’ve got, that will be better than being in the middle of the forest or even in the middle of long grass.

Look for a clearing that’s at least 100 feet across. While the grass in the clearing might catch fire, you can avoid that fire or stomp it out. Just make sure that you stay on the downwind side of the clearing, so that fire leaping from the treetops can’t reach you.

A Couple of Risky, Last Resort Techniques

Sometimes, it looks like the fire is going to win. But I’m the type who believes in the “Never say die” philosophy. So as I go through my options, I’ll start with the best ones, and then work my way down to those which aren’t so good. But I’ll always keep trying, as long as I can. I don’t know how to say, “I can’t,” my parents made sure of that.

So, if there’s no safe space available, there are still things that can be done. They aren’t the best of options, but they are still possibilities. Using them will depend a lot on the terrain you have available to you and how fast the wind is blowing.

Creating a Backfire

One of the techniques which firefighters use at time is to create a backfire. This is a smaller, more controllable fire, which they light, to burn off an area and create a fire break.

For this to even be possible, you’d need an area where you could light such a fire and be able to control it, such as a meadow. You’d also need enough time to light your backfire and burn off the area, before the fire could reach you.

The key to an effective backfire is controlling it. You don’t want any part of the fire burning faster than you can put it out. To prevent this from happening, you’ll need to be constantly putting out areas which are getting close to the point of losing control, and restarting new parts. This dangerous, tricky dance, could provide you with that safe zone you need, while the fire rages all around your cleared area.

Walking Through the Fire

While a forest fire may seem like an impenetrable wall of fire, it actually isn’t. The fire never burns evenly, and the terrain works against it, especially in rough terrain. There will often be areas that are far ahead of others, leaving gaps that can be exploited and walked through.

Keep in mind that even though there isn’t visible fire in those gaps, there can still be burning coals. Your passage could kick those up or kick off cover which is preventing them from receiving oxygen.

So walk carefully if you try this, with a keen awareness of everything that is going on around you.

The area you would be crossing into will be the area that the fire has already burned through. As such, it will be mostly charcoal and ashes. There will be hotspots and even the seemingly cool ones will still be too hot to touch.

Nevertheless, it will be safer than the area before the fire. Once past the fire line, you should be able to walk to safety.

Stay alert and watch your surroundings. Put your efforts not only into being ready for the disaster which will strike tomorrow, but be prepared for the low-key disaster which we live with each and every day. Be prepared to face a wildfire and the drought!

This article has been written by Bill White for Survivopedia.



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Wednesday, July 19, 2017

Just How Far off the Grid Can You Get?

Written by Wild Bill on The Prepper Journal.

With the furthest you can get from a paved road in the lower 48 states being 22 miles, (Northeastern Wyoming) getting “off the grid” is a lot harder for most of us than we think.

Have you ever really been “off the grid?” What most would describe as “We are really going to spend a Friday night doing this?” to “the vacation from hell” to “Seriously Dad!?!?” is actually some of the best training a prepper can do. I walked the John Muir Trail one July, from the top of Mt. Whitney to Tuolumne Meadows, 210 miles, and never went more than an hour during daylight without seeing or hearing someone. Summers on the Appalachia Trail can be the same.  And, to settle the argument here and now, the John Muir Trail is a section of the Pacific Crest Trail that runs 2,650 miles from the Mexican Border to Canada, while the Appalachian Trail runs 2,200 miles from Georgia to Maine. Back on topic.

Every prepper needs to challenge themselves and their family to practice. To get off the grid. And the key to this is to start small and safe and then remove the fallbacks. One night at home, from dusk to dawn with no utilities, no electricity, no running water, no natural gas (fireplace, stove, BBQ hooked to home gas system) is a good first step. And no running water means no “bathroom” facilities unless you operate them using buckets of water carried from a water source such as a pool, or pond or lake. I assure you if you have not done this it will be eye-opening. And no cop-outs, no “we did this after that thunderstorm last year”, you know the one after dinner was cooked, consumed and the dishes were cleared and dealt with, the one where only the electricity was off. Dusk to dawn, with a meal at both ends done without electricity and running water, and no natural gas either, do it on a camp stove on camping cookware. It will be easy, it can be fun, especially if you don’t recharge phones and tablets the day of;-) Discussing and writing down “lessons learned” afterwards will be invaluable and help you comprise a survival list based in reality.

From this you can step it up at your own pace. Do it again but in the woods or out in the dessert. Whole different world. Do it for a couple of nights and bring only enough supplies for one – see if you can “ration”, if you can find things like more water, or other things to eat if you must. I know “seasoned” campers may turn their noses up at this but I have found that those with their well-stocked backpacks, packed travel trailers and latest high-tech gear are the first to panic when they run out of supplies and there is no camp supply store to fall back on. No disrespect to campers intended, they have a leg up already, but it is a big leap from spending time on the land to living off it.

And, before the Sourdoughs of the world chime in my experience in Alaska is you are “off the grid” as soon as you lose sight of a paved road. While I will get plenty of push-back on this, the last time I stayed at the Captain Cook Hotel in Anchorage (hardly off any grid) a grizzly was tranquilized in a city park just 8 blocks away, a woman was killed by a black bear just south of Elmendorf AFB, and an Inuit child of 8 was killed by a grizzly near Iliamna Lake, all over a ten-day span. You have your “off the grid” definition, and I have mine. In any case, whatever your take on this aside, do visit Alaska if you get the chance as no artists’ palette has as many shades of green as you will find on the Kenai Peninsula in the summer. Spectacular walking in shorts on a blue-ice glacier with the brilliant green mountains everywhere. Again, back on topic.

Learning for yourself what you need physically and mentally to survive, how each member of your family will deal with things, how to keep your head, can only be done through practice under real conditions. And don’t stress about this as anyone stranded in the wilderness can be found within 72 hours of being reported missing (that is a big hint on how much supplies you should always bring) assuming two important things – someone knows and reports you missing, and you know and can plan on rationing your supplies accordingly, and, of course, you want to be found.

The lesson here is the one that applies to everything, practice makes better, maybe perfect after enough practice.

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Solar Storms and Earthquakes – Science or Pseudoscience?

Solar activity probably has more to do with life here on Earth than we give it credit for. We know that life, as we know it, couldn’t exist without the light and warmth we receive from the sun.

Yet the sun causes us lots of problems too, between the ultraviolet light it emits and the frequent solar storms. The latest warnings issued these days confirm it.

Keep reading to find out more!

The Carrington Event of 1859 caused one of the largest geomagnetic storms of history. Just last year NASA was warning us of a repeat performance, which we narrowly escaped. The difference is, if a coronal mass ejection hit the Earth’s magnetosphere today, the EMP would most likely destroy the electrical grid and most electronics.

But even on a smaller scale, the activity of the sun affects us. The CB radio craze of the 1970s was killed by electromagnetic interference, which was caused by sunspots. Radio interference of all kinds is linked to such sunspot activity.

Even the constant change of our world’s climate has been proven to be linked to solar activity, not CO2, like the global warming alarmists would have us believe. So, our sun has the ability to do great good, but also the ability to do great harm and it has no conscience to guide it.

While concerns about a coronal mass ejection and the potential EMP it would cause are with us at all times, there are other things the sun is blamed for, which are one time, or at least very infrequent events.

One such is the recent concern of the current sunstorm causing a massive increase in earthquake activity.

Earthquakes exist all the time, proving that there are massive forces at work inside the Earth. But most of those earthquakes are small enough that they are not noticed by anyone except the sensitive seismic equipment that records them.

However, earthquake activity has been on the upswing here in the United States.

Part of that is due to fracking, which requires splitting underground shale deposits by pumping pressurized water into the ground. But those are extremely localized, mild earthquakes, most of which fall into the category of not being recognizable by people on the ground above them.

There has also been an increase in earthquake activity in the vicinity of Yellowstone National Park and the supervolcano it enshrines.

Between Science and Pseudoscience

In some circles, this is raising concerns about a possible eruption, an even that could have dire consequences for a large part of the United States. While scientists still say that we are safe from such an event, an increase in seismic activity in the area around an earthquake is one of the signs that the Earth gives us of a pending eruption .

But now we’re hearing warnings about this solar storm causing a potential increase in earthquake activity, with the potential of earthquakes having a magnitude of as much as six to seven. But there is no real historic scientific evidence to point to a connection between solar activity and earthquakes.

I suppose if the sun’s activity were to produce enough geomagnetic force, it could have an effect on the Earth, even to the point of causing enough pressure to be responsible for the movement of the plates which make up our planet’s surface.

Were that to happen, we would have earthquakes caused by the sun. But the amount of magnetic force required to cause such an event would probably be much more severe than what we see from current solar activity. I propose that it would be strong enough to also trigger an EMP.

Studies have been undertaken, looking at the possibility of a correlation between solar flares (solar storms) and earthquake activity from January 1991 to January 2007.

While it has been shown that all 682 earthquakes of a magnitude of 4.0 or larger were preceded by a solar flare, not all solar flares were followed by earthquakes. So, while solar flares might still have some relation to earthquakes, there is no conclusive evidence that they do.

This indicates that belief that solar flares cause earthquakes is actually pseudoscience, defined as “a collection of beliefs or practices mistakenly regarded as being based on scientific method”, according to dictionaries.

Our modern world is filled with pseudoscience. Most conservatives regard global warming (by whatever name) as pseudoscience. Christians who accept the biblical account of creation see the theory of evolution, which is universally taught as science, as nothing more than pseudoscience. The favor is returned by those who believe in evolution, calling creationism pseudoscience based upon ancient myths.

Likewise, there are many forms of pseudoscience that you can find cropping up within the prepping community.

The idea of the Earth’s magnetic field shifting, supposedly demonstrated by places in the Atlantic Ocean where the magnetic field is reversed, is a pure case of pseudoscience. In this particular case, it demonstrates an important thing we must realize in regard to any pseudoscience.

That is, it is theories, usually based on incomplete and untrue information, which are presented as if they were the TRUTH.

In the case of the supposedly reversed magnetic fields, the conclusion is based upon a false presentation of data.

Oceanographic studies of the Earth’s magnetic field have shown that there are places in the deep ocean where the level of magnetic force vary. The graph I saw shows a variance in almost a sine wave pattern.

But here’s where the problem comes in. Someone arbitrarily drew a line through the middle of that wave, just as would be done with alternating current. In AC, such a line designates a point of zero voltage. So it’s natural to read the graph of the magnetic variance in the same way, giving an interpretation of a reversal of the Earth’s magnetic field.

Could the Earth’s magnetic field actually shift? Yes, it can.

The earthquake and tsunami of 2011, which destroyed the Fukushima nuclear power plant was severe enough to shift the Japanese coastline eight feet and cause a slight realignment of the Earth’s magnetic poles by four inches.

But that was an earthquake measured 8.9, the fourth largest earthquake in recorded history. If you’re doing the math yourself, you see that to actually cause the Earth’s poles to reverse would require 262,954,560 times that amount of force.

This is the type of thing that makes something pseudoscience. While I have just demonstrated that it is theoretically possible for the Earth’s poles to reverse, I have also shown that it would take an astronomical amount of force to make it happen; a force great enough that there’s just as much a possibility of it tearing the Earth apart.

Pseudoscience with a Goal

So why should we care? The fact is, pseudoscience is most often used to generate fear, causing people who hear about it to react in the way that the person presenting it wants them to.

That’s why global warming is always presented as something that can and will end life as we know it.

If they were to tell us the truth about their own data and their own computer models, most people would simply shrug and say, “So what?”

It’s hard to get scared about a potential rise of two degrees in temperature over the next 100 years, especially when you take into consideration that the Earth has already survived periods which were considerably warmer than that. But then, you can’t make money off of saying “Don’t worry folks, it’s just going to get a touch warmer.”

It is easy to sell pseudoscience to uninformed, uneducated people. That’s why low information voters are willing to go along with the whole global warming scam.

But we, those of us who are concerned about the future and about protecting our families from it, must watch out that we don’t fall into the same trap.

Yes, the world is full of risks and danger. Yes, much of the fear mongering that is spread around the internet has some basis in fact, but that doesn’t make it true. In many cases, the potential effects of such an event happening are so low, as to be negligible.

On the other hand, don’t let the true dangers get lost in the midst of the hue and cry of false risks. North Korea’s nuclear and missile programs are a real risk, as are those of Iran.

A coronal mass ejection is a real risk too. So is the possibility of an economic collapse. For that matter, the lowering of our aquifers and the potential lack of water that may cause is a real problem too, albeit one that will take some time to realize.

So was the Ebola outbreak that happened a couple of years ago.

You are the only one who can decide what you should believe and what you should prepare for. That means you must take the time to educate yourself, sifting through the mass of false information and fake news on the internet, and finding the gems of truth, which will tell you what the real risks out there are.

Take action on those, and you’ll be ready for whatever comes your way! Being ready to survive a blackout is one big step to take!

This article has been written by Bill White for Survivopedia.

References:

http://www.swpc.noaa.gov/products/alerts-watches-and-warnings 

http://adsabs.harvard.edu/abs/2007AGUSMIN33A..03J

 



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Tuesday, July 18, 2017

AR Drop Zone Reticle From Bushnell: Weekly Product Review

AR-15 Terminology For a little over 2 years I have owned and used Bushnell AR drop zone reticle optics, we have the 1-4x24mm for my wife’s 16” 1:9 twist nitride treated m4 profile palmetto state Frankenstein creation. To save weight on her rifle I used a smaller bipod and she carries 20 round magazines. On my rifle we have a 4.5-18x40mm Bushnell drop zone reticle, 1:7 / 16” A2 profile, palmetto state Frankenstein creation, full bipod/ 9-13” swivel – I prefer 30 round magazines, less reloading.

To assist the reader a list of terms and definitions will follow the article, for the sake of continuity...

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A Quick Question and Poll – Which Do You Prefer?

Can I ask you a quick question about my other website at www.mdcreekmore.com do you like the current layout? Is it easy to follow or would you prefer to read each day’s news brief to be in this form at www.mdcreekmore.com?

Note: There is a poll embedded within this post, please visit the site to participate in this post's poll.

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Wolf Pack Pantry Challenge (Week 12)

Week 12 “Plus 5” Ingredients

• Deer
• Potatoes
• Dried Fruit
• Peanut Oil
• Cream

You have been busy these last few weeks—pressure canning the pork, making bacon and curing hams. You have wrapped that up and have found time to go hunting. You’ve taken down a deer. You have potatoes from your garden.

You have traded another group for some more cream.

You have also had a successful week scavenging. You’ve found several five-gallon jugs of peanut oil (a major score) and a good supply of dried fruit—raisins, blueberries, cranberries, apricots and figs.

...

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Keeping Your Powder Dry!

Written by Wild Bill on The Prepper Journal.

Most of us have lived through the “Dark Days” – The Great Ammo Shortage of ’08 – ’13. Dark days, indeed. If you were like me, your days alternated between agonizing mental arithmetic and staking out the ammo counter at the local Walmart from across the aisle in the automotive section, waiting for the next shipment to arrive. Cabala’s used to advertise that ammo deliveries would make it to the display floor just before opening on Thursdays, there was always a line waiting for the opening Thursdays.

Many days I found myself wanting to train, wishing I had paid more attention to the proverb of the ant who “provides her meat in the summer, and gathers her food in the harvest”. Deciding between saving and training will always be hard for those of us short on cash. Plain and simple. However, having the proper storage system in place can alleviate some of the burden of storing ammunition for the long-term and at least give us the sense that we have done all in our power to preserve its integrity.

The Perfect Container for Ammunition Storage

The perfect container for ammunition storage can lock out air and humidity, while providing protection against extreme heat. Surplus military ammo cans have been a prepping staple for years, however, these cans rely on an o-ring around the edge to keep out humidity and air. The downside is those seals can go bad. If you have these you should lubricate the o-rings on a regular basis. Any true mountaineer treats his/her waterproof boots with a bees-wax coating at the end of the winter to keep them from cracking over the summer and at the beginning of the winter in preparation for the coming snows. This same product is used to preserve the o-rings on swimming pool equipment and is available at any pool supply store as well as Walmart, Home Depot and Lowes. A thin coating is all that is required. WD40 also works but can break down in high heat and, yes, even the ArmorAll you use on your car can work. – an aside as this should always be used on the rubber seals of your vehicles doors, all of them, as well as your hood, and trunk, if you have one, to keep them from cracking as well.

 

In 2017 you should pass on nostalgia and macho and consider purchasing one of the newer plastic ammo cans which do look “tacticool”! These are less likely to conduct heat, and with proper care, can retain their air tight features longer. Using any of the o-ring treatments above on these storage containers o-ring can prolong the life of the seal. These plastic ammo cans are a great investment, especially when you purchase the stack-able kind. I have them and they have yet to let me down. I label them by caliber of the ammo stored in each. One note, I have one very large one, 20″ x 24″ x 9″ and it stores so much ammo that where it sits now determines where I will have to make my last stand with its contents! Smaller and more are the way to go.

If you want to take it a step further, consider some “add-ons”. The zcorr anti corrosion bags are air and water tight. They also come with a humidity test card. Or, you could purchase a BluGuard .30 cal ammo can liner. When all else fails, silica gel packs endure. Consider stocking up on these.

Remember, airtight and watertight ammunition storage is a MUST.

The Do’s and Do Not’s of Ammunition Storage

Do seek to store your ammunition in a dry, cool, location. Do not store your ammunition in hot or humid locations. If you must store ammunition in a humid environment, use a dehumidifier. Don’t rely on older surplus ammo storage cans. Do choose your ammunition storage container wisely. Don’t plan on keeping the factory ammunition box. Do research your ammunition’s components before you purchase and never buy ammunition with a box date older than 10 years.

Final Thoughts

In my many years of managing a firearms store, the most successful preppers seemed to be the ones who consistently bought extra ammo. An extra box of ammo every two weeks can add up. Spreading your purchases out also offsets the financial burden. Having ample supplies of ammunition is a prepping must, as is not neglecting to protect your investment. Keeping your powder dry is a valuable lesson learned.

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5 Classic American Recipes We Love

We all have that one family dish that we’re known for, the one that was passed down to us from our ancestors.

It may be a dip, or a cake, or your grandma’s meatloaf, but if I ask you what your favorite family recipe is, I almost guarantee something instantly comes to mind, and odds are good that we even have it committed to memory.

My family is full of cooks, though traditionally most of them are women.

My former father-in-law Max, on the other hand, probably taught me more about cooking than I ever learned from my family, because he taught me the WHYs of cooking, not just the hows. He taught me how to make all of my grandmothers’-and of course his-recipes come out right every time. Even if they don’t, I have a good idea of what happened.

So, which is MY favorite family recipe?

There’s no way that I can pick just one, so I asked many people across my various venues what they thought, and there were a few good old American recipes that just kept cropping up time after time. You can find some of them in my book, Forgotten Lessons of Yesterday.

But for now, in no particular order, here are the top recipes that I came up with.

Apple Pie

We would be absolutely remiss if we didn’t start with the one food that has a place at any holiday, picnic, or any other event where people gather to eat, drink, and be merry: apple pie!

There are about a million different variations on the recipe, but the traditional, lattice-work pie is the one that instantly jumps to mind.

I’m going to share three tips here that Max taught me for a flaky, fabulous crust – use very cold water, add a ½ tsp of vinegar to your water, and butter is king. My grandma used lard, back when it was readily available because they made it.

Many people turn to Crisco, which is fine, but lacks flavor and is hydrogenated. The flavor of butter is incredible and the texture is light and flakey.

Dough:

  • 4 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 4 tsp. sugar
  • 1/4 tsp. fine salt
  • 1 ¾ stick cold butter, diced
  • 1 large egg, lightly beaten with 2 tbsp. ice cold water

Filling:

  • 2 tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice
  • 3 lbs. baking apples like Golden Delicious or Granny Smith
  • 2/3 cup sugar, plus more for sprinkling on the pie
  • 1/2 stick unsalted butter
  • 1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
  • 1/8 tsp. ground nutmeg
  • 1 large egg, lightly beaten

Directions

To make the dough by hand:

Whisk together the flour, sugar and salt in a medium bowl. Using your fingers, work the butter into the dry ingredients until it resembles yellow cornmeal mixed with bean-size bits of butter. (If the flour/butter mixture gets warm, refrigerate it for 10 minutes before proceeding.)

Add the egg and stir the dough together with a fork or by hand in the bowl. If the dough is dry, sprinkle up to a tablespoon more of cold water over the mixture.

To make the dough in a food processor:

Pulse the flour, sugar and salt in a food processor fitted with the metal blade until combined. Add the butter and pulse until it resembles yellow cornmeal mixed with bean-size bits of butter, about 10 times.

Add the egg and pulse 1 to 2 times; don’t let the dough form into a ball in the machine. (If the dough is very dry, add up to a tablespoon more of cold water.) Remove the bowl from the machine, remove the blade and bring the dough together by hand.

Form the dough into a flat circle, wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, at least 1 hour.

For the filling:

Put the lemon juice in a medium bowl. Peel, halve and core the apples. Cut each half into 4 wedges. Toss the apple with the lemon juice. Add the sugar and toss to combine evenly.

Melt the butter over medium-high heat in a large skillet. Add the apples and cook, stirring, until the sugar dissolves and the mixture begins to simmer, about 2 minutes. Cover, reduce the heat to medium-low and cook until the apples soften and release most of their juices, about 7 minutes.

Strain the apples in a colander over a medium bowl to catch all the juice. Shake the colander to get as much liquid as possible. Return the juices to the skillet, and simmer over medium heat until thickened and lightly caramelized, about 10 minutes.

Toss the apples with the reduced juice and spices in a medium bowl. Set aside to cool completely. (This filling can be made up to 2 days ahead and refrigerated or canned, or frozen for up to 6 months.)

To assemble the pie:

Cut the dough in half. On a lightly floured surface, roll each half into a circle 11 to 12 inches wide. Layer the dough between pieces of parchment or wax paper on a baking sheet and refrigerate for at least 10 minutes.

Line the bottom of a 9-inch pie pan with one of the discs of dough, and trim it so it lays about 1/2 inch beyond the edge of the pan. Add the apple filling to the pan.

Cut the second round into 1/2-inch thick strips. Lay strips of dough, evenly spaced, across the entire pie. Weave more strips of dough perpendicular through the previous strips to make a lattice or basket weave design across the entire pie. Trim the excess ends from the strips of dough.

Pinch the bottom crust edge and lattice edge together, and flute the edge as desired. Make sure that the lattice is closed around the edges so that the filling doesn’t boil out. Brush the surface of the dough with egg and then sprinkle with sugar. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

Bake the pie on the preheated baking sheet until the crust is golden, 50 to 60 minutes. Cool on a rack for at least 3 hours before serving. The pie keeps well at room temperature (covered) for 24 hours, or refrigerated for up to 4 days.Discover the golden days’ practice for getting all you can eat food without buying from the supermarket!

 

Pot Roast

America is a place where nationalities blend and merge to create a new, unique set of ideals and goals. As such, our recipes are a beautiful hodge-podge of different ethnicities, intertwined and adjusted to make them as American as we are. There’s probably nothing that represents that better than the good old pot roast!

Like every other recipe on the list, there are a million variations, but here’s mine.

  • 3-5 lb. chuck roast
  • 2 medium onions
  • 2 pounds baby carrots
  • 5 medium potatoes
  • 1 tbsp. salt
  • 2 tsp. black pepper
  • 2 tsp Italian seasoning
  • 1 tbsp. olive oil

Preheat oven to 275 degrees. Heat olive oil in your Dutch oven on medium heat and sear each side of the roast. Remove roast. Add onions and sear on each side. Remove and do the same with the carrots. Remove; pour in 3 -4 cups water.

Scrape all of the deliciousness off the bottom, then add the roast and top with the onions and carrots. Sprinkle the seasonings over the top and around the water.  Put the lid on the Dutch oven and bake for an hour per pound.

Meatloaf (or amazing meatballs!)

  • 3 lbs. ground beef
  • 3 eggs
  • 1 cup oatmeal
  • ½ cup ketchup
  • 3 tbsp. mustard
  • 1 1/2 tbsp. Italian seasoning
  • 2 tsp. salt
  • 2 tsp. black pepper
  • 1 tsp. onion powder
  • 1 tsp. garlic powder

This one’s easy. Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Combine everything in a bowl. If it’s a little sloppy, add a bit more oats. If it’s too dry, add a bit more ketchup. You want to be moist enough to form into a loaf but not so wet that it sticks to your hands.

Ideally, you should be able to form it into a meatball that’s a little mushy. Press into a loaf pan or square iron skillet. Bake for 1 ½-2 hours until meat thermometer reads 160 degrees.

Fried Chicken

Picnics and Sunday dinners all across the South wouldn’t be the same without fried chicken. It’s crispy, crunchy, and oh-so-juicy!

Chicken:

  • 8 serving pieces chicken, light or dark meat
  • 2 cups milk or buttermilk
  • 2 tsp. salt
  • 2-3 cups peanut oil, more if needed
  • 1 tsp. black pepper
  • 2 cups all-purpose flour

Put oil in a large skillet (you want about an inch) and heat to 375 degrees. You’ll know it’s hot when you toss in a bit of flour and it sizzles. While your oil is heating, combine all dry ingredients in a medium bowl, and place the milk in another.

Dredge the chicken through the milk then through the flour mixture so that it’s well-coated. Drop gently into the oil. You’ll hear it sizzle. When it stops sizzling and is brown on one side, turn it and cook it on the other side.

When it quits sizzling, it’s done. Drain on paper towels and enjoy.

Buttery, Flakey Biscuits

I’m from the South, but biscuits are eaten in all parts of the south. Biscuits were a staple food for our ancestors and this recipe has been passed down to me via my father-in-law. The important part about keeping your biscuits light is to knead them only enough to combine them. Unlike bread, the more you knead biscuits, the tougher they get.

  • 2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 4 teaspoons baking powder
  • 3 teaspoons sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1 stick cold butter (1/2 cup) cut into eighths
  • 1 large egg
  • 2/3 cup 2% milk

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Combine all of the dry ingredients then cut the butter in until you have coarse crumbs, with no chunks bigger than a pea. The goal is to incorporate the butter throughout the flour. Then whisk together the milk and egg and add to the flour. Stir to combine, then knead no more than necessary to make it smooth.

Roll it out to about ½ inch thick and cut with a biscuit cutter or water glass. Place in a greased baking dish so that they’re touching a bit and bake 5-10 minutes or until golden brown. Serve piping hot!

If the article you’re reading provides less than you need about these old food habits, grab my book – Forgotten Lessons of Yesterday – for more!

Now that I’ve shared my favorite recipes with you, return the love! What’s that one recipe that’s been handed down through the generation in your family?

Let us know in the comments section below.

This article has been written by Theresa Crouse for Survivopedia.



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